Himalaya Spring 2017: Rope Fixing Team Retreats on Everest, Kilian Speed Climbs Cho You.

Just a quick update from Everest today, as it seems that the rope fixing team on the South Side was forced to retreat to Camp 2 yesterday before reaching the summit. Reportedly the weather there is quite good, and should remain so for the next several days, but heavy snow on the upper slopes of the mountain have made the process of installing the lines on the mountain more time consuming and exhausting than expected. As a result, the Sherpa team was able to add to the route yesterday, extending it up above the balcony, but after spending several days above 8000 meters (26,200 ft), the squad simply had to descend to regain their strength and get some much deserved rest.

This delay in getting the ropes into place will likely cause the teams that are currently at or above C2 to retreat to Base Camp as well and wait for the work to be completed. Most of the climbers are now fully acclimatized and are simply waiting for the lines to be installed and a proper weather window. Once access to the summit is granted, there is likely to be a mad dash for the summit, provided the weather allows.

Reports indicate that there is plenty of snow on the upper flanks of Everest this year, which is welcome news for the climbers. Most would rather climb on snow and ice rather than bare rock, and it seems that will be the case this season. Not only is it easier to make the ascent over the more technical sections of the climb, it is also safer too. Often the wind clears the snow from the upper sections of the mountain, but this year it looks like it will remain.

So what does this mean for the climbing schedule? It now looks like the ropes won’t be fixed until late this week, which means summits attempts will be pushed into next week. The forecast continues to look good, although winds do pick up some over the next couple of days. If everything holds however, we can now expect possible summits by next week this time, although even that could fluctuate some. So far, everything is still going as schedule, and nothing is really out of the ordinary, but until the rope fixing is completed, the teams remain in a holding pattern.
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Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

It’s a special feeling to hit Everest BC among the first. The yet fairly empty glacier and ice fall breathe big adventure, before caravans of climbers are spotted on the rocky horizon. Base Camps on both sides of Everest have been reached.

Not all make it this far though: some climbers wishing to test their endurance on the trek push too hard, and several climbing organizers also alert that KTM kids might not be the best guides on the trek.

The bulk of the south side Everest expeditions are currently scattered along the upper Khumbu villages. Tibet-side Everest teams traveled the Rongbuk valley from Tingri to BC yesterday.

Everest south side BC: rock gardens and decorated tents

“Our team arrived at Everest BC around 1 pm,” Jeff Martin of RMI team reported yesterday. The tents were set up and ready for their arrival.

So were those of the Finnish Everst & Lhotse expedition members, who spent a first night in their new home.

“The cracks and swings of the glacier woke us this morning,” the Finns reported earlier today. “Ranging around the tent village after the morning duties, we found several nicely made stone gardens.”

“So far, there are somewhat less tents than the last year, however, the large part of the camp is still empty. Sherpas have done a great work by pitching all the tents for the clients of commercial expeditions, and going as far as decorating the tents with the clients’ personal belongings.”

Trekkers and AMS warning by Tim Rippel

A number of teams are about to join the early birds. Tim Rippel and his Peak Freaks expedition reached Gorak Shep today – sans two members.

“Unfortunately they have reached their wall and are not showing the ability to acclimatize at these elevations,” Tim explained. “ It happens. It has nothing to do with fitness, it is entirely a haemoglobin thing.”

“Then, each year, there are people who break the rules of “going slow and only rising the recommended height per day,” Tim added.

“Last autumn we had to organize an Asian women who hired a local guide. The guide broke the rules – buyer beware!… Sometimes local guides hired off the streets in Kathmandu or Lukla don’t understand the importance of an acclimatization schedule or a client may insist that the job offer comes with a fast schedule. In this case the client wanted to push higher faster and it came close to costing her her life, had we not intervened and organized to get her out.”

The view from Namche

Meanwhile Kenton Kool is resting in Namche with the rest of Dream Guides team members “We got to see the mountain for the first time today,” Kenton reported.

“Bonita had stopped a little earlier and pointed a mountain out to David and Lewis, “WOW look its huge” they were all taking photos when I asked what they are looking at…“Why its Everest” I chuckled and put them straight…When they did finally see Everest its still so far away it looks tiny. “I think mine looked better” said Bonita!!!!”

Island Peak check: Simone ready for 8000ers

“4th April, Easter day, Aldo, Tamara and I went till the summit of Island Peak (6182 m) and thus completed the acclimatization period we planned before our main goal,” Simone Moro wrote. “Aldo and I will attempt Everest; Tamara will go for Lhotse. I will try both, energy and weather permitting.”

Everest north side: fresh highway and plush hotel

Over on the north side, the Hungarians are in BC. Dávid Klein and his team hope to move to Advanced Base Camp around the 10th.

Spanish Alfredo Garcia also planned to hit BC yesterday, after a comfortable trip. “We only needed an hour to cover the 38km between Zhangmu and Nyalam, the dirt-road was fixed during the Olympic flame trip two years ago,” Alfredo reported. “Once in Nyalam, we stayed at a new hotel – so new indeed, that we joined the inauguration party that evening.”

* Previous story :

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Interview with Bernadette McDonald.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

The Gear Junkie Profiles Seven Summiteer.

Interview with Mike Farris: Alone on Everest.

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Interview with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen: The First Finnish Woman on Everest?

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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Everest 2010: South Side Update and Safety On The Mountain.

Author : Kraig Becker.

It’s clear that the Spring Season in the Himalaya is looming closer, as there are now more reports coming in on expedition plans and climbers are preparing to set out to Kathmandu in just a few weeks time. For those heading to those mountains, that time will go by way too quickly, and before you know it, we’ll be getting all kinds of progress reports from the region itself.

Inside Khumbu-Icefall Inside Khumbu-Icefall

A few weeks back we received a report on the outlook for climbing the North Side of Everest this year courtesy of Alan Arnette who was interviewing Jamie McGuiness, who operates a trekking and climbing guide service on that side of the mountain. The North Side has been difficult, at best, to access the past few years, but Jaime seems to think that it’ll be open to business as usual this year.

Now, Alan is back with another new interview, this time looking at the outlook for the South Side of the mountain in an interview with Eric Simonson of International Mountain Guides. IMG is one of the big players on the Nepali side of Everest and they are in a good position to weigh in on what is to be expected there this spring. Eric says that the IMG team is essentially full, and that everything is on track for the season ahead. He also talks a bit about working with Discovery Channel, touches on a few improvements to climbing the mountain (new bolts in the Yellow Band), and gives his thoughts on the season ahead.

Judging from Eric’s comments, it seems that having Russell Brice’s HiMex team on the South Side has been a good thing. He mentions that Russell was the one who helped organize a “a consortium of outfitters” last year that saw the bigger teams working more cooperatively with each other. Those efforts benefited everyone on the mountain, and it seems that that attitude will continue this year, and all-in-all, that’s a very positive step to keeping things safe there.

Speaking of safety, there is another good Everest article today, this time from Stephanie Pearson who is part of the Climb WIth Us Team this spring. Stephanie has put together a good story about how things have changed on the world’s highest mountain over the past 14 years since the tragic events that killed nine climbers back in 1996. The article takes a look at some of the circumstances that led to that disaster, and the way things have changed now to help avoid a repeat. Several of the guides interviewed by Stephanie point to improved coordination and communication on the mountain as the key to making the climb safer, although Dave Hahn ominously notes early on that “Yeah it could still happen. You bet. It will happen again,”

Lets hope that he’s wrong about that.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Related Links :

Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

2010 climbing season kick-off: Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions!

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

* Previous story :

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

Feburary and March Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Yet More On The Haines Everest Supersuit.

AAC Book Club: Book Sale and Other February News.

Lei Wang – Asian American woman to beat record in climbing Seven Summits.

More Thoughts on Mallory, Irvine and the Camera.

An Urgent Request from EverestER.

Alan Arnette Explains The Champion Everest Supersuit.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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The Rest of Everest: Everest Trek 2009 Teaser.

Fans of The Rest of Everest have had to wait awhile between episodes thanks to podcast creator Jon Rest-of-Everest LogoMiller going off to Nepal, along with Chris Marquardt of Tips From the Top Floor fame, to trek to Everest Base Camp along with 10 very lucky other people. Along the way, Jon and Chris conducted videography and photography workshops as they hiked through the Himalaya.

I was really hoping to go on this trip, but do to some scheduling issues, I wasn’t able to make it, but fortunately for all of us, Jon has done his usual great job of capturing the entire experience on video, and in the weeks ahead, he’ll be sharing the entire trekking experience with us. In these episodes, we’ll actually get the great indicator of what it’s like to trek to Everest BC on the South Side in Nepal.

In preparation for this series of videos to begin soon, Jon has put together a teaser video of what we can expect. Now, in movie terms, a teaser is generally a very short video that only gives you a small taste of what is to come in the full product. But no one ever accuses Jon of not giving us our moneys worth. This “teaser” is more than 38 minutes in length, and it really sets the mood of the trip, beginning in Kathmandu, heading off to Lukla, and eventually trekking up the Khumbu Valley in the shadow of some of the biggest mountains on the planet.

I have a feeling after watching these videos, I’ll be even more ready to visit Nepal and the Everest region.

You can check out the video for yourself by downloading it directly from the Rest of Everest website or you can find it in iTunes as well. Great stuff. More to come soon, and I can’t wait.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story  : – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/trekking/

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up : Climbers are leaving south side Everest BC.

(MountEverest.net) Climbers are leaving south side BC in a hurry – only the LET Kazakh team remains up on Lhotse.  Everest BC packing New

Climbers are heading up on the north side, hoping to reach the summit between tomorrow and Thursday. Meanwhile, Norwegian Jarle Traa has been evacuated from BC.

Everest South side: season closed

“I don’t think I’ve ever seen an Everest season end so early or so abruptly,” First ascent’s Dave Hahn reported yesterday. “It began snowing hard at BC at around 6 AM and that has continued without pause for the entire day.”

“BC is being deserted and in those camps where are still some climbers, packing takes major action,” Finnish Airborne Rangers wrote on Saturday. They planned to walk down to Pheriche on the following morning.

Everest basecamp Everest BC covered in snow yesterday. Image courtesy of First Ascent’s – website

Several teams reported through the weekend on helicopter flights being delayed or cancelled due to bad weather. Some climbers hoping to be airlifted are waiting for better conditions, while others have chosen to walk back to Lukla.

Everest North side: Jarle evacuated – teams on summit push

Norwegian climber Jarle Traa was evacuated by jeep from BC (5,200m). NRK news agency reports the climber reached the Nepali border earlier today, in order to board an ambulance which will take him to hospital in Kathmandu. According to reports, Traa summited Everest w/o O2 from its north side on Friday, and suffered frostbite on descent.

Dragan Jacimovic’s Serbian team and Gabriel Filippi, from Quebec, prepare to launch a summit push: “A few days of good weather are expected on May 27th,” the Serbian home team reported on Friday. “All climbers feel well and cannot wait for the summit day.”

“Gabriel is on his way to C2 on a final summit push,” Filippi’s team stated yesterday. “He will attempt to reach the top of the world on May 28th.

Update on records and casualties

Bill Burke of Cost Mesa, Calif., who summited from the South side on Thursday, became the oldest American Everest summiteer at 67. Eddy Dawes, 66, of Spokane, topped-out two days before. Bill was member in Asian Trekking’s group, while Eddy climbed with IMG.

On Friday, Alpine Ascents’ member Kay LeClaire, 60, of Spokane, became the oldest U.S. woman to climb the peak. Incredibly enough Lori Schneider 52, of Wisconsin, summited Everest with multiple sclerosis.

Casualties on Everest last week, now confirmed, are German (Calgary resident) Frank Ziebarth, 29, who perished after summiting Everest w/o O2 via the South side on May 21st; and Czech Veslav Chrzaszcz, who passed during the night at the North Col on May 18th, probably due to a heart attack.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up : Go Time On Everest and Beyond.

Update: I was just finishing up this story when the reports began to trickle in of a massive avalanche summit-09on the South Side of Everest, that swept down into the Khumbu Ice Fall. Apparently it was a big one, and there has been at fatality. Two climbers were caught up in the slide, one survived, while another was sent down into a crevasse. Early indications are that it was one of the Sherpas, but who he was climbing with hasn’t been revealed yet. We’ll have to wait to see if this avalanche will have any effect on the climbing schedules, as from what I can gather, part of the Ice Fall route has been damaged and will need to be rebuilt. Stay tuned!!

Earlier this week we heard that the ropes were fixed to the summit of Everest and that five Sherpas topped out, followed closely by David Tait, pictured here. With that minor detail out of the way, the rest of the teams are now waiting, watching the weather, and scheduling their summit bids. Throughout the Himalaya, on a variety of mountains, other climbers are doing the same.

ExWeb is reporting that there is action all over the region, with Edurne Pasaban is finishing her edurne_newacclimatization process on Kangchenjunga, just as Nives Meroi and Romano Benet arrive in base camp. The two women are locked in a race to see who will be the first to claim all 14 800 meter peaks.

Over on Makalu, ExWeb says that the Korean team has already summitted along the “normal” route, topping out on the first of May. But the team of lberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo have set out along the mountains daunting West Pillar, hoping to make an alpine style ascent over the next 4 to 5 days, in one single push, without Sherpa support or established camps. Good luck guys!

Despite the activity on these other big peaks, all eyes are on Everest at the moment, where teams are getting ready to start the summit push beginning tomorrow. Alan Arnette reported on his Everest 2009 page yesterday that on the North Side of the mountain ropes were fixed up to the North Col, but high winds were stalling out efforts to reach the summit. The teams there are waiting just as anxiously as their counterparts to the South. Today there are reports of a large avalanche on the North that swept ropes off the mountain, which will further delay efforts to summit from that side.

But on the South Side, it is definitely time to go, and go they will, starting tomorrow. The First Ascent Team has their plans in place, and Ed Viesturs is happy to share them with us all in the video below. The latest video is a nice recap of the expedition so far, and does a nice job of laying out their attempt at the summit. Ed hasn’t been on Everest in a few years, but by all accounts, he hasn’t missed a beat and is as strong as ever. He’s a great spokesman for the team, and the video is great for those unfamiliar with the climbing tactics.

First Ascent isn’t the only team heading up the South Col. The Discovery Channel blog indicates that they are about to begin their push as well. The latest entry is an excellent read, that discusses the climb, the logistics, and weighing the risks. Of course, if Discovery is going up, that means that IMG and Himex are beginning their assaults, since they are the two teams who are being filmed for the next season of Everest: Beyond the Limit, although Billi Bierling indicates that the team is in Gorak Shep resting, as Russell Brice didn’t think the weather window looked right just yet.

It should be noted that the climbing schedule seems to be a ahead of what is considered normal at the moment. The weather has been great for most of the season so far, and traditionally on the South Side, teams have until about the first of June to reach the summit. After that, the ice doctors tend to quit maintaining the route through the Ice Fall, and everyone packs up and goes home. On the North Side, teams don’t have deal with the Ice Fall so they can go a bit longer into June, but by mid-way through the month, the weather changes, and the monsoon moves in, cutting off the summit until Fall. That said, there are still three weeks of opportunities for teams to climb, and summit reports will be coming in throughout that period. It should be very busy starting tomorrow, with summits beginning on the 12th.

* Source :  – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** See :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 5. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz.5. /Version english and polish/

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