Video: A View From the Summit of Lhotse.

Autor : Kraig Becker

Earlier today we shared several stories involving Lhotse, the next-door neighbor of Everest. In this video, you’ll go up the mountain to get a look at the surrounding region from must below the summit, including the view back down the approach to the top, and images of Everest itself. As you look across to the tallest mountain on the planet, you’ll also see the ridge that connects the two mountains. That ridge is the way that Ueli Steck will traverse the two summits later this spring. The clip was shot back in 2008, but will still give you an indication of what he’ll face in a month and a half. Obviously not a project for the faint of heart.

Himalaya Spring 2017: Ueli Steck Shares Everest-Lhotse Traverse Plans.

Autor : Kraig Becker

One of the expeditions that we’ll be keeping a close eye on this spring is Ueli Steck’s attempt to summit both Everest and Lhotse in a single push. As most of you probably already know, the two mountains stand next to one another, and are joined by a single long and difficult ridge that sits above 8000 meters (26,246 ft). That means that any climber attempting the double summit will be above the so called “death zone” for an extended period of time, although Steck has shown his ability to move quickly and tolerate the challenges of thin are at altitude in the past.

In a nutshell, here is Ueli’s plan. The Swiss climber has already done some acclimatization in Nepal this winter, and has been preparing int he Alps too. But, he’ll still have to allow his body to adjust to the altitude before he begin the climb. To that end, he’ll depart for Kathmandu this Saturday, April 8. After handling some logistics in the city and finishing his gear prep, he’ll then head out to the Khumbu Valley to being the trek to Base Camp.

Once he is fully acclimatized and ready to begin the traverse, Ueli will first depart BC for Camp 1 just like everyone else. He’ll make his way up the Hornbein Couloir on his way to the summit of Everest, before descending back down to the South Col at 8000 meters. From there he’ll traverse the ridge between Everest and Lhotse and climb another couloir along Denis Urubko’s route before approaching the 8511 meter (27,923 ft) summit of Lhotse. From there, he’ll descend along the standard route to Camp 2 for rest, before crossing the Khumbu Icefall and returning to Base Camp.

* source: –  Himalaya Spring 2017: Ueli Steck Shares Everest-Lhotse Traverse Plans

** see also –  Winter Climbs 2017: Messner Visits Txikon in Base Camp on Everest.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Details From Andrew and Ueli.

Two of the big name climbers in the Himalaya this fall have posted updates to their websites filling us in on the details of their climbs. Both reached the summit of their respective 8000 meter peaks after some struggles along the way.

Shisha Pangma

First up, Andrew Lock has updated his blog with the details on his summit of Shisha Pangma, which happened to be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter mountain. His tale is a good one, and well worth the read, as he lets us in on the scary nature of climbing up to the true summit amidst weather that was getting worse by the minute, and than played havoc with the descent. Harrowing stuff!

The other update comes from Ueli Steck, who is now home, safe and sound, after his climb on Makalu. Ueli had intended to make a solo, alpine style ascent along the West Pillar, but ended up going after the normal route and claiming a successful summit along the way. Ueli is back in Switzerland now, and starting to return to the routine of his normal life, but is also dealing with frostbite and exhaustion. He says that he has never been tested by a mountain like this one before, and that it was only through his strength of will that he actually stood on top. More good stuff.

While these two amazing climbers are safely down and sharing thoughts on their climbs, others are still preparing to make summit bids as the weather begins to shift in the region. ExWeb is reporting all of the weekend plans for teams looking to get into position for early next week, including Edurne Pasaban who is still hoping to become the first woman to join the list of the 8000 meter club.

ExWeb is also reporting that there is no change in status at this time for teams on Annapurna or Everest. On the former, Miss Oh is hoping to get another crack at the summit as well, so she can stake her claim at 8000 meter history, while on Everest, the Basque team is hoping at another shot at the Hornbein Couloir.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

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Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

It was another busy weekend in the Himalaya with successful summits, changes in the weather, and the sad news of a death on Cho Oyu.

I’ll start there today, as the news broke over the weekend that Clifton Maloney, the husband of U.S. Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney, died on Cho Oyu after achieving a successful summit. At the age of 71, he claimed the title as the oldest to summit that mountain, but died in his sleep back at C3 after telling one of his teammates “I am the happiest man in the world. I just climbed a beautiful mountain”. Maloney was an avid climber, sailer, and runner, having competed in the New York City Marathon on no less than 20 occasions. This is the first death of the season in the Himalaya, and I send my condolences to the family.

In other news on Cho Oyu, the North Face Trilogy team that had been planning to scale the mountain and then run/mountain bike back to Kathmandu, are in the process of altering those plans thanks to the Chinese closing the Tibetan borders once again. According to their latest blog posts, they’ll now consider a different peak in the region, since they won’t have access to Cho Oyu until after October 8th, and they won’t have the time to finish their project.

We also received an update on Ueli Steck over the weekend with the news that he reached the summit of Makalu late last week. He had been planning on making a solo, alpine style attempt on the West Pillar, but if you read his dispatches, you could tell how difficult that climb was going to be, so rather than go home empty handed, he topped out along the normal route while he was in the neighborhood.

IMG and Jagged Globe both put teams on the summit of Cho Oyu late last week and have posted photos and updates on the their teams as well, all of which are often the mountain and safe and are already en route back to Kathmandu for the journey hope. Congrats to everyone!

Cho Oyu Camp 2 at 7,100m 16 September 2009
Summit bids are underway on Shisha Pangma, where Andrew Lock has updated his blog this morning with news that he is “Going For It”. He and his team have spent a night at C2 and the camps are well stocked up to that point, and he now believes that they’ll top out on Friday or Saturday of this week. They’ll be taking an alternate route to the summit that is long and challenging, but should avoid the treacherous cornices and snow that turned back another team yesterday.

Teams have been very busy on Manaslu the past few days as well, and the Altitude Junkies were successful in putting three climbers high on the mountain, but the did not reach the true summit itself, coming up about 15 vertical meters short. It seems that the ropes were not fixed all the way to the summit, and left them just short of the top. They elected to not attempt to go further for safety reasons. Meanwhile, according to Alpenglow Expeditions, climbing with Himex, the team should reach the top today and upon doing so, descend back to C2. Hopefully all has gone well for them this morning.

Finally, ExWeb has an update on the Basque team on Everest. The team was making a summit bid up the Hornbein Couloir, but are now back in ABC after a very scary night 7200 meters in which they survived no one, but two avalanches. The first hit them while they were in the tent, and buried it. Deciding that discretion was the better part of valor, they elected to head down the mountain, but were hit by a second avalanche that covered them in snow. They ended up spending the night under a rocky outcropping before making a long, slow treacherous descent the next day. No word as of yet if they’ll have another go at it.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Basques survive two avalanches on Everest, Manaslu summits, news expected from Shisha.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Summits on Cho Oyu, More To Come Soon!

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : It’s Go Time!

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Satopanth summits, Himalaya climbers reporting on trash.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Puja Done, Time to Move Up!

Himalaya 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Ueli’s first trip up Makalu West Pillar, Cho Oyu teams ready for C1, expeditions’ equipment searched at Tibet’s border.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

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Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : It’s Go Time!

The Fall Himalaya season seems to be rapidly heating up as summit bids are now underway on a variety of mountains across the region. The acclimatization process is finished, the lines are fixed, and the high camps are stocked. Looks like it’s go time! Cho Oyu - Advance Base Camp1

On Everest, the Basque team of Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo will begin their assault on the Hornbein Couloir tomorrow, with an eye on reaching the summit on Sunday morning, according to the latest update from ExWeb. The current plan is to survey the route tomorrow and if everything goes as planned, begin their alpine style ascent, which as ExWeb points out, has only been accomplished once before.

Jumping over to Makalu, we finally get an update from Ueli Steck, who is taking on the West Pillar solo and in alpine style. Ueli has had some set backs in that climb, and he is currently in BC, hoping for better conditions on the mountain, and knowing that he has just three weeks to make a go at it. If you read his very personal account of his attempt to go up the mountain, you’ll get a sense of the frustration he is currently feeling at not being able to climb as quickly and safely as he’d like. He’s even considered giving up and going home, which is so unlike the indomitable spirit we usually see out of him. It’s a bit sobering considering how strong a climber Ueli is, but it also says a lot about the conditions and challenges of this route on this mountain. Definitely a good read.

Meanwhile, the Chilean Ski Expedition is hoping to begin their summit bid on Manaslu tomorrow. They hope to top out on Sunday as well, and will then make the descent back down the mountain on their skis. On that same mountain, the Altitude Junkies should be in the middle of their summit bid right now, and should be hopefully reaching the summit this weekend as well. The Himex Team is apparently progressing with their acclimatization, and have already spent two nights at at 6300 meters, and are eyeing their bid, weather permitting, in the next week and a half.

Andrew Lock checks in once again from Shisha Pangma where he reports great conditions. He has now climbed up to Camp 1, but described the route as slow and treacherous at this point. It took him and his climbing partner, Kinga Baranowska, seven hours to make the trip up to 6250 meters. That climb was made several days ago, and today he and Kinga are back up to C1 to spend the night, before moving on to Camp 2 tomorrow. For Andrew, this is his 14th 8000 meter peak, so obviously he’s keen on using the great weather to his advantage and finishing off the last of the big mountains.

The North Face Cho Oyu Triology Team continues to make their way to that mountain, and are posting regular updates to their blog. Yesterday we were treated to some great photos from the area on the team’s blog and the video posted below was put up today. It shows climber Simone Moro in Chhukung village discussing his previous experiences in the Himalaya, of which he has had many.

Also on Cho Oyu, the IMG blog is reporting that their team is now in the middle of their final push to the summit, and updates later today should clue us in on their success. It looks like they should be standing on top very soon.

FInally, the Field Touring Alpine Team has updated their blog to let us know that the entire team is now back in BC on Satopanth after successfully putting several climbers on the summit of that peak located in the Hindu Kush of India. Well done team, and glad you’re all safe!

*Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story  :

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Satopanth summits, Himalaya climbers reporting on trash.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Puja Done, Time to Move Up!

Himalaya 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Ueli’s first trip up Makalu West Pillar, Cho Oyu teams ready for C1, expeditions’ equipment searched at Tibet’s border.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

goryonline.com

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