Who’d have thought it? The first Everest fall summits in four years “It’s a good thing my mom isn’t here watching,” quipped the polar skier from C4 on Everest South Col. But October 15 at 12:30PM Eric Larsen plus Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years. The Terramar sponsored expedition concluded Larsen’s quest to reach the “Three Poles” in record time.
Serial Everest summiteer lost on Baruntse The loss of Chhewang Nima Sherpa put a sad end to the climbing autumn season, wrapped up in a special report by Ang Tshering Sherpa. 19x Everest summiter Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche while fixing ropes on Baruntse upper sections.
Marty Schmidt’s “shortest Himalaya expedition ever” Marty cut his solo 4-day Lhotse attempt short in order to guide a client on Ama Dablam.
Jordises out of Lhotse Spanish “K2 pirates” Corominas and Tosas finally threw in the towel on Lhotse, due to dangerous conditions.
Shisha Pangma South Koreans Chang-Ho Kim, 41, and Sung-Ho Suh summited Shisha Pangma at 2:15PM on October 14, after climbing the British route on the peak’s south side. Chang-Ho Kim claims Shisha as his twelfth 8000er without supplementary O2; Sung-Ho Kim his tenth.
Cho Oyu summit mysteries German Ralf Arnold told ExplorersWeb he was the first Cho Oyu summiteer of the season, topping out October 1, 2010 at 10:30AM in a 15 hours roundtrip from C2. An October 7 Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean Adrian Sanchez was questioned after the alleged summit picture turned out shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez.
Dhaulagiri Search parties found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche, buried in snow at about 5,000 meters on Dhaula.
Manaslu Together with a Japanese climber and his two Sherpas, Mexican couple Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reached Manaslu summit sans O2 at 2:40PM, local time on October 1, some time after the HiMex and Carlos Pauner’s groups. “We were the last to summit that day,” Badia debriefed back in Kathmandu.
Lukla plane crash No one was hurt in the plane crash at Lukla airport. “Apparently, his brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose,” SummitClimb reported.
Blind Everest summiteer Erik Weihenmayer led a team of war-battered soldiers to the top of the 20,075-foot Lobuche on October 13.
Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) was topped out on October 8 by Dutch Dick Valk, Kaji Sherpa and expedition leader Paul Boslooper.
Mustang 6000ers ski “When I broke my ankle on May 1 last spring, I was at 17,600 feet on Baruntse,” Ben Clark reminded ExplorersWeb. Baruntse will lay on the shelf until Spring 2012; right now Ben and mates are back in Nepal to climb and ski Saribung (6000m) in Mustang province.
Garhwal Himalaya: Sathopanth casualties In a debrief from Satopanth (7,075m), Arun Mahajal reported to ExplorersWeb unseasonably bad weather in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. There was loss of life in the Himalayas as well as in the lowlands due to landslides and flooding. A small group of trekkers from Calcutta were trapped in a storm, a female member in a six-person Austrian team fell down a ravine during her Sathopanth ascent.
Tengkang Poche — have you seen Alexey and Svetlana? Russian climbers Alexey Gorbatenkov and Svetlana Gutsalo planned to climb Tengkang Poche (6,500m) by the end of September. Scheduled to fly home from KTM on October 7 there has been no word since. Anyone having met them on the mountain, in Thame, Namche or anywhere in the Khumbu valley please contact ExplorersWeb and/or Lena at RussianClimb.com. The peak is not far from Thame village, in the Khumbu region.
Piolet d’Or Asia Park Young-Seok, Um Hong-Gil and Kim Chang-Ho were not there; Miss Oh Eun-Sun sat away from her sponsors. Nevertheless, a jury in Korea headed by Kazakh Denis Urubko selected Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama the winners of the fifth “Les Piolets d’Or Asia” for their new route on Canada’s Mt. Logan (5,900m). The first Asia Achievement Award went to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa while Ja-In Kim received the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ and the ‘Silver Shoes’ went to Hee-yong Park in the rock-climbing category.
Pakistan: 2011 climbing fees, Alpine Club elections Veteran mountaineer Lt. Col. Manzoor Hussain (retired), has been unanimously elected as President of the ACP for the next three-year term during the Club’s Annual General Meeting held at Pakistan Sports Complex on October 17, 2010. Climbing fees for 2011 are out — small increase has been unavoidable.
Erden Eruc Around-n-Over 100+ days on the Indian Ocean For piracy protection, lonely rower Erden Eruc is currently escorted by a Turkisk naval ship towards mainland Africa. As part of his true world circumnavigation, Eruc is well on his way to become the first rower to cross the Indian ocean mainland to mainland.
ExWeb’s interview with Ousland A few hundred people greeted Ousland and Thorleifsson as they sailed in to the Fram Museum in Oslo. Explorersweb Jon Amtrup caught up with Ousland for an interview about the recent North Pole circle; circumnavigating the North Pole in one season.
ExWeb interview with Meagan McGrath Meagan spoke to ExWeb about the Antarctic crevasse fall and her recent experience on K2.
ExWeb interview with Sean Burch “Tougher than any 8000 peak I have done!” Sean told ExWeb after recently crossing Nepal in a record 49 days, 19 days faster than the previous record set by Rosie Swale Pope 2003.
ExWeb interview with Paul Landry Antarctica season kicking off, seasoned polar guide Paul Landry told ExplorersWeb about the challenges of the different ski/kite routes he has done on Antarctica, why teams would choose one route above the other, what his favorite route is and about future plans.
ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael American Todd Carmichael attempted a 400 mile (643.7 km) trek in 18.5 days through Death Valley in the USA; hauling 450 pounds of water (33 gallons / 125 liters), food and gear. It ended in equipment failure far too early for Todd, but he learnt some very important lessons for his next attempt. “There is only one way to know if something is possible – and that is to try it,” he told ExWeb.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review Tagged: | Cho Oyu, Climbers, Dhaulagiri, Eric Larsen, Everest, Everest South side, Expedition, Himalaya, Himalaya 2010 Season’s, Lhotse, Manaslu, mountaineering, Nepal, Shisha Pangma, Travel