Himalaya Spring 2017: New Routes on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma .

Autor : Kraig Becker

Not all of the action will take place on Everest this spring. While the tallest peak on the planet always takes center stage at this time of the year, there are plenty of expeditions to other mountains to keep our eyes on in the days ahead as well, including two attempts to open new routes on Cho You and Shishapangma.

ExWeb is reporting that the four man team of Louis Rousseau, Adam Bielecki, Rick Allen, and Felix Berg have announced that they will attempt a new line along the North Face of Cho Oyu. Their plan is to start at the base of the North Wall and climb directly up to a completely untouched section of the mountain. Much of this route is reportedly unexplored and the team isn’t sure what to expect when they get there, other than that it will be extremely technical.

The 8201 meter (26,906 ft) mountain is the sixth highest mountain in the world and is often described as the “easiest” of the 8000-meter peaks. But this team will be attacking its most difficult section, as the big wall they hope to ascend is roughly 2000 meters (6561 ft) in height and requires excellent rock climbing skills to go along with the demands of high altitude mountaineering. They’ll likely have to climb in alpine style and it could potentially be quite cold there. The North Face sees very little sunshine and even in the spring it can see temperatures well below freezing.

Meanwhile, Stefan Nestler has the scoop on another major expedition that has just left for the Himalaya. David Goettler is joining forces with Hervé Barmasse to attempt a new route along the South Face of Shishapangma in Tibet. Goettler attempted this same route last year with Ueli Steck, but the two were turned back in their attempt. This season, he is feeling much more confident about their chances.

The two climbers joined Steck in the Khumbu Valley for acclimatization training in February and will return to that region to tune up for the expedition again. They’ll spend another two weeks there prior to crossing over to Tibet to begin the climb. They’ll trek throughout the area and even warm up on Island Peak (6180 m/20,275 ft) before jumping across the border to begin.

Last year, Goettler and Steck were turned back on the 8027 meter (26,335 ft) Shishpangma due to bad weather. This year, the team is hoping for improved fortunes with better all around conditions. They should have already arrived in Kathmandu as I write this, and will be preparing to head out on their acclimatization treks soon.

Add both of these expeditions to your lists of ones to follow this spring. It is shaping up to be an interesting time in the Himalaya for sure.

* source: – Himalaya Spring 2017: New Routes on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma

** see also –

Himalaya 2011 climbing season, Pakistan wrap-up: K2 not over yet on either side, under the radar notes from Rodrigo, and more.

(Angela Benavides) Compared to Everest where KTM heli shuttles, food yaks, bars, and a general bustling scene of hundreds of climbers cushion the waiting game: hanging in the dark and cold BC on K2 south side is a challenge in itself. Fabrizio and Kinga have done it for two months already, still hoping for a summit chance. On the equally empty north side; the international team hopes for a final push early next week.

In other news: Rodrigo Granzotto Peron has compiled a bunch of expedition reports which passed unnoticed by most media. There’s also word from Korea, and about landslides in NW Pakistan.

K2 south

When everyone left for home after the failed summit push on Cesen last week, American Fabrizio Zangrilli and Polish Kinga Baranowska stayed behind in BC. First to arrive and last to leave, “We are alone in BC, just like in the beginning, checking weather forecasts which, unfortunately, are bad,” Kinga wrote. “We will give it another go if the weather will give us a chance in the next 10 days,” Fabrizio added noting that, “K2 is a tough nut to crack.”

K2 north

Dodging avalanches and shooting rocks, back in BC Maxut Zhumayev reports that the definitive summit bid may take place as soon as the currently strong wind recedes, by August 16.

It’s an all or nothing bet. “The next attempt will by our only chance to summit,” Gerlinde told Nachrichten.at.

Korean Gasherbrum summiteers: Cho Oyu next

South Korean Gasherbrum summiteers Kim Chang-Ho and Suh Sung-Ho will attempt Cho Oyu next, ExWeb correspondent Kyu Dam-Lee reported from Seoul. The ‘Turquoise Godess’ (Cho Oyu’s Tibetan name) could become Kim’s 13th 8000er (with only Everest left to go) and the last colective peak for the Busan Hope Expedition series. As for Suh, he has Cho Oyu, K2 and Broad Peak left to complete his 14x8000er challenge.

Dark horses: more expedition stats

Rodrigo Granzotto-Peron compiled a bunch of expedition reports which have passed largely unnoticed so far.

NANGA PARBAT + SPANTIK:

The Czech expedition made a summit bid in late July, when they reached C2 on the regular route of Nanga Parbat, but the attempt was called off on July 29 because of “steep ice and falling rocks”. Check for further info here.

On July 13, Pavel Matousek, Olga Novakova, Suzanna Hofmann, Antonin Belik, Vit Auermüller, Libor Kadlcik, Tomas Kruml and Michal Vyroubal became the first Czechs to summit Spantik (7027 m).

BROAD PEAK:

Strong winds, unfavorable weather forecasts and excess of snow on the upper plateau of Broad Peak led several expeditions to abort the summit bids and return home empty handed.

This was the case of Altitude Junkies expedition, under leadership of Phil Crampton, and with a multinational team of six climbers and five Pakistani HAPs. The expedition was called off on July 22.

The same reasons cut short the Spanish-Argentine expedition. All four members – Javier Camacho Gimeno (Chavi) Bueno and Arturo Aparicio, from Spain, and Lito Sanchez and Heber Orona, from Argentina – more or less reached 7850 meters, on the plateau, but due to strong winds (60-70 km/h) and cold feet, they headed down. Further attempts were halted by instable weather. Check for further info here.

Mexican well-known couple Mauricio Lopez Ahumada and Badia Bonilla de Luna, self-dubbed Una Pareja en Ascenso, managed to reach 7500 meters on July 12. Later, bad weather prevented further attempts, and they headed home.

Exception was the British-Spanish expedition. On July 25, Scott Mackenzie (UK), the expedition leader, and Koldo Zubimendi (SPA) summited Broad Peak.. The British side of the team had acclimatized on Mount Damavand (Iran, 5621 m). Scott summited and skied on descent.

HUNZA PEAK

Supposed to team up with Colin Haley for a new route on Ogre II (6960 m); when the American could not participate Norwegian top climber Bjorn Eivind Artun changed plans for a solo attempt on Hunza Peak (6270 m). The spire was first climbed in 1991 by Mick Fowler and Crag Jones and news are expected soon from Artun.

Among other conquests, Bjorn has two new routes on a 1000-meter-high wall on Kjerag Mountains (Norway) and a speed ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali, with Haley.

TAHU RATUM

Swedish duo Magnus Eriksson and Martin Jakobsson just arrived in Pakistan to attempt the 1500-meter-high central pillar of Tahu Ratum (6651 m). “The route has never been climbed before, so we really don’t know what to expect,” Martin said. The climbers plan to summit early September Check for info here.

Landslides strike NW Pakistan – again

Natural disaster is striking Gilgit-Baltistan region again. Nearly 130 houses in Talis village have been flattened by landslides, affecting 1,200 to 1,500 people, according to AFP.

NGO’s such as Alberto Iñurrategi fundation plead for help, since the relief work done in the area since last year’s flood is destroyed. Check the story on Barrabes here.

Links to 2011 Pakistan teams:

K2 – Pakistan (south) side:

Kinga Baranowska
Fabrizio Zangrilli

K2 – China (north) side:

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Ralf’s Amical
Maxut Zhumayev

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Himalaya 2011 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /8/ – Week in Review.

Pakistan climbing is full throttle: season’s first summits went to Latok III; a massive rescue saved a life; scattered victories on the Gasherbrums so far.

The past two weeks brought out interviews and some major stories; one such touching the final flight of the shuttle.

Pakistan wrap-up: Alexander Odintsov’s Russian Big Wall team summited Latok III at last.

‘World’s Toughest Jobs’ Chances are slim that Discovery will do a feature on Sherpa and HAP’s but they probably should: people from unrelated expeditions on the Gasherbrums saved the life of a Pakistani climbing porter reportedly seriously neglected by his Japanese employers.

A total of 12 climbers summited GI or GII last week. Later pushes were aborted, along with pushes on Broad Peak. Following no-shows including Swede Strang’s, Nanga Parbat is quiet: bad weather finally thwarted the Kyrgyz-Russian summit attempt and only the Spanish remain in a wet BC, hoping to at least try the normal route. Austrian Stangl is enroute back to K2, saying he’ll tape on real summit and post to YouTube. The north slope K2 climbers are fixing route.

ExWeb interview with 14x8000er summiteer Kim Jae Soo: “Korea is isolated behind the language barrier” In this unique interview with ExplorersWeb, regular partner of the late Mi Sun-Go and recent 14x8000er summiteer Kim Jae Soo talks about why he will return to Cho Oyu, the language problems, the controversies, the definitions, why he climbs and how to help locals beyond building schools

Opinion: Royal Marines Officer Sean Chapple about polar teamwork and success In addition to polar feats both north and south, a few years back Sean Chapple led a team of three Royal Marines unassisted and unsupported at Antarctica in over 2200 km distance. The 2011-12 Antarctic season will be busy and Sean discussed at ExWeb what makes the difference between teams who succeed and those who don’t.

A blind man’s adventure, “What inspires and encourages humans is consciousness of one’s power” “In summary, this trip reminded me of what I could do, and not what I was incapable of doing,” said Imtiaz Moosa following a canoe expedition down the Yukon River. Fellow seeing adventurer Howard Fairbanks in turn wrote how returning to the city changed everything.

ExWeb interview with Alex Hibbert about Greenland speed ski attempt in August After being grounded in Tasiilaq in April, Hibbert & Wilkinson will be back in Greenland in August to attempt to break the Norwegians’ 8 days & 9 hrs ski record across the appr 530km Nagtivit – 660 route. Hibbert told ExWeb about their April experience.

ExWeb interviews with Dimitri Kieffer, finals Losing 2 tents in 2 seconds, cooking in the open in minus 35°C and skiing with open toes were some of the low points in Dimitri’s trek in Far Eastern Russia. In the final two parts of the interview series he told ExplorersWeb also about the magic, life changing moments, and The Missing Link.

Africa walk from Mozambique to Angola ended near heavily land mined area Julian Monroe Fisher has completed his ‘Equatoria’ – A Walk Across Africa, from the coast of Mozambique, across Malawi, Zambia and the DRC to the coast of Angola. He experienced Africa as a complex mixture of beauty and ugliness all wrapped up into one vast space.

Avalanche evaluation made easy by southern volcano On June 4th the Puyehue volcano in the Andes mountains of southern Chile erupted, setting up an incredible snowpack in the ski resort of Cerro Bayo. French avalanche specialist Cedric Larcher sent over pictures of the ashes clearly dividing layers of snow.

Paragliding World Cup boss Xavier Murillo missing Paragliding World Cup boss Xavier Murillo went missing while paragliding in Peru on Friday 1 July. The Paragliding World Cup Association (PWCA) appealed for donations to help fund the aerial search. “The support that we have received on Xavier’s behalf via the appeal fund has been wonderful, and a reflection of the love and affection that we all feel for him,” wrote PWCA in a note to ExWeb. Unfortunately, Murillo remains missing.

US Family of four heading for unofficial speed sailing record James Burwick is known for his exhausting solo adventures at sea. On Sunday June 26th James and his family left Maine to set an unofficial speed record to France. The youngest on board is 9 months old.

Are you ready for it? ICON raises 25 million, let production begin! The new Sport Pilot License is cheaper and faster. With a mission “to bring the fun and adventure back to flying,” ICON says it has closed a $25 million round of venture financing. With that, full-scale manufacturing of the sport plane can begin.

Bits from the Silver Bullet: latest from Japan A few times each month SF New Tech come ashore and head for the Mars Bar. There, developers and inventors are offered 5 minutes sharp to pitch their ideas. Latest we checked out the 6 most promising startups from Japan.

Final countdown: “Sad, not fatal,” says Space industry CEO On Friday, the final Space Shuttle launch is scheduled. What will this mean to the industry, and the very soul of America? “It is the end of an era. It is not the end of the world,” said Elliot Holokauahi Pulham, CEO of the Space Foundation, in a newsletter.

ExplorersWeb space shuttle editorial: why we explore “Exploration can’t wait for perfect times and it never has.” Who founded National Geographic and why; Why military and academia make poor explorers; Who we are and who we are not; Why we matter; and What American historian Frederick Jackson Turner had to do with it – a big editorial by the founders of ExplorersWeb touched on the last voyage of the shuttle in the perspective of explorers, and new Americans.

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Memoriał im. Piotra Morawskiego 2011.

Olga Morawska wraz z Alpinus Expedition Team zapraszają do udziału w Memoriale im. Piotra Morawskiego „Miej odwagę!”. Celem Memoriału jest nagrodzenie najbardziej interesujących projektów podróżniczych, poznawczych, wspinaczkowych, narciarskich lub żeglarskich. morawski

Wyprawy można zgłaszać od 24 listopada br. w serwisie www.alpinus-miejodwage.pl.

Ogłoszenie zwycięzcy 1. edycji Memoriału odbędzie się w marcu 2011 r. podczas Festiwalu Podróżników Kolosy w Gdyni.

Po raz pierwszy zasady Memoriału im. Piotra Morawskiego zostały przedstawione przez Olgę Morawską, żonę Piotra, w marcu 2010 r. podczas festiwalu Kolosy 2009.

— Memoriał im. Piotra Morawskiego powstał, ponieważ wierzymy, że energia Piotra, jego siła i odwaga są warte ocalenia. Piotr był himalaistą i wybitnym wspinaczem. Miał odwagę, aby realizować marzenia, a swoją pasją zarażał innych. Idee, które były dla Piotrka ważne, przerodziły się w Memoriał Jego imienia, który promuje odwagę, siłę i energię, a także bezpieczeństwo. Memoriałowi nadaliśmy nazwę „Miej odwagę!”, ponieważ odwaga i pomysł na życie jest tym, czego będziemy poszukiwać u uczestników konkursu — mówi Olga Morawska, pomysłodawczyni projektu.

— Piotrek Morawski był wybitnym członkiem Alpinus Expedition Team. Znając jego plany, a także jego niezwykłe umiłowanie życia z pasją, podjęliśmy decyzję o zrealizowaniu Memoriału im. Piotra Morawskiego „Miej odwagę!” Główna nagroda Memoriału daje szansę podróżnikom, wspinaczom czy żeglarzom na zrealizowanie wymarzonej wyprawy. Dzięki Memoriałowi chcemy zaprosić wszystkich odważnych ludzi do naszego zespołu podróżników i zdobywców Alpinus Expedition Team. Wierzymy, że Memoriał Piotra zyska wielu zwolenników i fanów, co pomoże nam przekazywać jego pasję i energię dalej — dodaje Zenon Raszyk, przedstawiciel marki Alpinus.

Zasady Memoriału

Wyprawy można zgłaszać w 5 kategoriach, od 24 listopada 2010 r. do 31 stycznia 2011 r., na stronie http://www.alpinus-miejodwage.pl.

Kategorie:

1. Ziemia — wyprawy w góry i z góry, po płaskim, a także te w głąb Ziemi.

2. Powietrze — projekty, których głównym celem są loty, przeloty, odloty i skoki.

3. Woda — wyprawy po wodzie i w głąb wody.

4. Ogień — wyprawy i projekty, w których najważniejsze są kipiące emocje, adrenalina na najwyższych obrotach i dużo czadu!

5. Eter — kosmicznie odjechane projekty, które wykraczają poza ramy podstawowych żywiołów.

Przy ocenie zgłoszonych wypraw będzie brany pod uwagę oryginalny, ale jednocześnie przemyślany i możliwy do zrealizowania pomysł. Wszystkie kategorie traktowane będą równorzędnie. Zgłoszone projekty będą prezentowane na stronie Memoriału i będą oceniane przez Internautów. Głosowanie rozpocznie się 1 lutego 2011 r. i potrwa do końca miesiąca. Na decyzję o wygranej wyprawie będą miały wpływ głosy Internautów (50 %) i ocena Kapituły Memoriału (50 %), w której skład wchodzą: Olga Morawska, Zenon Raszyk, przedstawiciel marki Alpinus i członkowie Alpinus Expedition Team.

Regulamin konkursu dostępny jest na stronie alpinus-miejodwage.pl.

Nagroda

Zwycięzca konkursu otrzyma honorowe, roczne członkostwo w Alpinus Expedition Team, a zwycięska wyprawa zostanie sfinansowana. Zwycięzca, jako honorowy członek Teamu, stanie się także członkiem Kapituły Memoriału i będzie miał wpływ na wybór kolejnej zwycięskiej wyprawy.

Piotr Morawski

(ur. 27 grudnia 1976, zm. 08 kwietnia 2009) — doktor chemii na Politechnice Warszawskiej, największy polski himalaista młodego pokolenia, jeden z najlepszych himalaistów świata. Zdobywca 6 ośmiotysięczników. Od 2007 roku pełnił funkcję wiceprezesa Polskiego Związku Alpinizmu. Był także członkiem Alpinus Expedition Team.

W 1995 roku ukończył kurs skałkowy i kurs taternicki. Od początku pociągało go zimowe wspinanie w Tatrach. Miał na swoim koncie wiele przejść tatrzańskich i alpejskich. Do największych osiągnięć w wysokogórskiej karierze Piotrka należą: pierwsze zimowe wejście na ośmiotysięcznik Shisha Pangma, wraz z Simone Moro, ustanowienie — nie pobitego do tej pory — rekordu wysokości zimą na K2, wraz z Denisem Urubko, a także trawers Gasherbruma I wraz z Peterem Hamorem czy pierwsze przejście południowej ściany Shisha Pangmy zimą wraz z Simone Moro.

W 2009 r., podczas wyprawy aklimatyzacyjnej na Dhaulagiri, Piotr Morawski wpadł do szczeliny lodowcowej, niestety nie udało się go uratować. Zginął mając 32 lata. Został pochowany w Himalajach.

Alpinus Expedition Team to zespół wspieranych przez markę Alpinus polskich wspinaczy i podróżników, którzy poszukują nowych ekstremalnych wyzwań, często w dziewiczych rejonach świata. Alpinus Expedition Team tworzą: Ola Taistra, Kinga Baranowska, Edyta Ropek, Jacek Kudłaty i Marcin Gienieczko.

www.alpinus.pl.

Dodatkowe informacje: Magdalena Swoboda, tel. 692 444 289, Anna Wróblewska, tel. 697 223 850.

Źródło: – http://pza.org.pl/

* posty o wyprawach kliknij : Piotr Morawski

Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

–  Piotr Morawski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

–  Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego.

– web album – mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition 2008

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

morawski-shisha-new

Wyprawy/List of expeditions :

* *[2008] Gasherbrum II (8035) – normal route, with Peter Hamor, summited July 6th
* *[2008] Gasherbrum I (8068) – traverse, with Peter Hamor, alpine style, beginning on Spanish route, via American route, descent by normal route (Japanese route), summited June 24th,
* [2008] Annapurna (8091) – North-West face, Gabbarou spur, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Dariusz Załuski, the second repetition of the route, aborted 150 meters below the summit due to a ferocious storm on May 29th, two bivaques at 7700, just 400 meters of fixed ropes used.
* *[2008] Ama Dablam (6859) – normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Dariusz Załuski, summited April 3rd
* [2007] K2 (8611) – new route attempt on the West face, after fast ascent via Česen route on the south face stopped at 8000 after 30 hours, August 10th, with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold
* *[2007] Nanga Parbat (8125) – Diamir face, Kinshofer route, with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold, summited  July 14th
* *[2006] Broad Peak (8047) – normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor, during summit push on July 8th rescue action of an Austrian climber from the col at 7800, finally summited July 9th
* [2006] Annapurna (8091) – East ridge, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Don Bowie, almost one week spent on the ridge above 7500, summit push on May 21st aborted below East Summit (8010), rescue action of a snowblinded Tibetan climber from the ridge. Only Peter Hamor summited
* *[2006] Cho Oyu (8201) – normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Don Bowie, summited April 24th
* [2005] Annapurna (8091) – South face, Bonnington route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Marcin Miotk, Vlado Štrba, aborted at 7300 metres.
* *[2005] Shisha Pangma (8027) – first winter ascent, Yugoslavian route on South face, with Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Załuski, Jacek Jawień, summited January 14th (with Simone Moro)
* [2004] Shisha Pangma (8027) – winter expedition, South face, Spanish route, first ascent of South face in winter season, with Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Załuski, Jacek Jawień, Pierre Bergeron,  Yvon Latreille, summit push on January 17th aborted at 7700 on the summit ridge (with Simone Moro)
* [2003] K2 (8611) – winter expedition, North ridge, Japanese route, the highest point achieved in winter season on K2 by climbers with Denis Urubko, camp 4 at 7650
* [2002] Pobeda Pik (7439) – normal route, with Marcin Kaczkan, aborted at 6400
* *[2001] Chan Tengri (6995) – normal route, with Marcin Kaczkan, summited

** Zobacz też:

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /29/ – Week in Review.

Who’d have thought it? The first Everest fall summits in four years “It’s a good thing my mom isn’t here watching,” quipped the polar skier from C4 on Everest South Col. But October 15 at 12:30PM Eric Larsen plus Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years. The Terramar sponsored expedition concluded Larsen’s quest to reach the “Three Poles” in record time.

Serial Everest summiteer lost on Baruntse The loss of Chhewang Nima Sherpa put a sad end to the climbing autumn season, wrapped up in a special report by Ang Tshering Sherpa. 19x Everest summiter Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche while fixing ropes on Baruntse upper sections.

Marty Schmidt’s “shortest Himalaya expedition ever” Marty cut his solo 4-day Lhotse attempt short in order to guide a client on Ama Dablam.

Jordises out of Lhotse Spanish “K2 pirates” Corominas and Tosas finally threw in the towel on Lhotse, due to dangerous conditions.

Shisha Pangma South Koreans Chang-Ho Kim, 41, and Sung-Ho Suh summited Shisha Pangma at 2:15PM on October 14, after climbing the British route on the peak’s south side. Chang-Ho Kim claims Shisha as his twelfth 8000er without supplementary O2; Sung-Ho Kim his tenth.

Cho Oyu summit mysteries German Ralf Arnold told ExplorersWeb he was the first Cho Oyu summiteer of the season, topping out October 1, 2010 at 10:30AM in a 15 hours roundtrip from C2. An October 7 Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean Adrian Sanchez was questioned after the alleged summit picture turned out shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez.

Dhaulagiri Search parties found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche, buried in snow at about 5,000 meters on Dhaula.

Manaslu Together with a Japanese climber and his two Sherpas, Mexican couple Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reached Manaslu summit sans O2 at 2:40PM, local time on October 1, some time after the HiMex and Carlos Pauner’s groups. “We were the last to summit that day,” Badia debriefed back in Kathmandu.

Lukla plane crash No one was hurt in the plane crash at Lukla airport. “Apparently, his brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose,” SummitClimb reported.

Blind Everest summiteer Erik Weihenmayer led a team of war-battered soldiers to the top of the 20,075-foot Lobuche on October 13.

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) was topped out on October 8 by Dutch Dick Valk, Kaji Sherpa and expedition leader Paul Boslooper.

Mustang 6000ers ski “When I broke my ankle on May 1 last spring, I was at 17,600 feet on Baruntse,” Ben Clark reminded ExplorersWeb. Baruntse will lay on the shelf until Spring 2012; right now Ben and mates are back in Nepal to climb and ski Saribung (6000m) in Mustang province.

Garhwal Himalaya: Sathopanth casualties In a debrief from Satopanth (7,075m), Arun Mahajal reported to ExplorersWeb unseasonably bad weather in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. There was loss of life in the Himalayas as well as in the lowlands due to landslides and flooding. A small group of trekkers from Calcutta were trapped in a storm, a female member in a six-person Austrian team fell down a ravine during her Sathopanth ascent.

Tengkang Poche — have you seen Alexey and Svetlana? Russian climbers Alexey Gorbatenkov and Svetlana Gutsalo planned to climb Tengkang Poche (6,500m) by the end of September. Scheduled to fly home from KTM on October 7 there has been no word since. Anyone having met them on the mountain, in Thame, Namche or anywhere in the Khumbu valley please contact ExplorersWeb and/or Lena at RussianClimb.com. The peak is not far from Thame village, in the Khumbu region.

Piolet d’Or Asia Park Young-Seok, Um Hong-Gil and Kim Chang-Ho were not there; Miss Oh Eun-Sun sat away from her sponsors. Nevertheless, a jury in Korea headed by Kazakh Denis Urubko selected Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama the winners of the fifth “Les Piolets d’Or Asia” for their new route on Canada’s Mt. Logan (5,900m). The first Asia Achievement Award went to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa while Ja-In Kim received the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ and the ‘Silver Shoes’ went to Hee-yong Park in the rock-climbing category.

Pakistan: 2011 climbing fees, Alpine Club elections Veteran mountaineer Lt. Col. Manzoor Hussain (retired), has been unanimously elected as President of the ACP for the next three-year term during the Club’s Annual General Meeting held at Pakistan Sports Complex on October 17, 2010. Climbing fees for 2011 are out — small increase has been unavoidable.

Erden Eruc Around-n-Over 100+ days on the Indian Ocean For piracy protection, lonely rower Erden Eruc is currently escorted by a Turkisk naval ship towards mainland Africa. As part of his true world circumnavigation, Eruc is well on his way to become the first rower to cross the Indian ocean mainland to mainland.

ExWeb’s interview with Ousland A few hundred people greeted Ousland and Thorleifsson as they sailed in to the Fram Museum in Oslo. Explorersweb Jon Amtrup caught up with Ousland for an interview about the recent North Pole circle; circumnavigating the North Pole in one season.

ExWeb interview with Meagan McGrath Meagan spoke to ExWeb about the Antarctic crevasse fall and her recent experience on K2.

ExWeb interview with Sean Burch “Tougher than any 8000 peak I have done!” Sean told ExWeb after recently crossing Nepal in a record 49 days, 19 days faster than the previous record set by Rosie Swale Pope 2003.

ExWeb interview with Paul Landry Antarctica season kicking off, seasoned polar guide Paul Landry told ExplorersWeb about the challenges of the different ski/kite routes he has done on Antarctica, why teams would choose one route above the other, what his favorite route is and about future plans.

ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael American Todd Carmichael attempted a 400 mile (643.7 km) trek in 18.5 days through Death Valley in the USA; hauling 450 pounds of water (33 gallons / 125 liters), food and gear. It ended in equipment failure far too early for Todd, but he learnt some very important lessons for his next attempt. “There is only one way to know if something is possible – and that is to try it,” he told ExWeb.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

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Himalaizm kobiecy w Polsce – wyprawa w Himalaje 2011.

Kobiece zgrupowanie sportowe (unifikacyjne) w Himalajach Tybetu. Grupa kilkunastu taterniczek i alpinistek, uczestniczek obozów sportowych jakie odbyły się w latach 2009-2010 w Morskim Oku, planuje w lipcu 2011 roku zorganizowanie zgrupowania sportowego w rejonie Cho Oyu; – zaplanowano wejścia na niezdobyte sześciotysięczne szczyty o umiarkowanych trudnościach.

czas na himalajeOkolice Cho Oyu – zdj.Krzysztof Wielicki

Celem wyjazdu będzie zdobycie aklimatyzacji, sprawdzenie się na wysokości, oswojenie z nieznanym terenem o skomplikowanym, wysokogórskim charakterze. Zgrupowanie będzie miało również na celu zintegrowanie zespołów, które w przyszłości wezmą udział w kobiecej samodzielnej wyprawie na szczyt ośmiotysięczny.

Wyjazd w Himalaje Tybetu jest realizacją projektu „Polski Himalaizm Kobiecy”, którego zarys powstał w 2008 r. a impulsem do jego stworzenia było spotkanie na konferencji naukowej w Senacie RP : „ Sport kobiet w Polsce – stan i perspektywy”. Zakończenie prac nad projektem nastąpiło 1 marca 2009 roku na „Spotkaniu alpinistek i himalaistek” w Rzędkowicach.

Danuta Wach

Poniżej dokumentacja fotograficzna realizacji poszczególnych etapów projektu.

30 września 2008r odbyła się, zorganizowana przez Komisję Nauki, Edukacji i Sportu Senatu RP oraz Ministerstwo Sportu i Turystyki, konferencja naukowa podejmująca problematykę sportu kobiet: “Sport Kobiet w Polsce – stan i perspektywy”.

Fot. Ze zbiorów organizatora konferencji

Senat RP, 30 września 2008 r.

W spotkaniu uczestniczył prezes PZA, Janusz Onyszkiewicz.

Polski himalaizm kobiecy reprezentowały Marta Lewandowska, Ewa Panejko- Pankiewicz i Danuta Wach.

Fot. ze zbiorów organizatora konferencji

Senat RP, 30 września 2008r.

Zreferowano temat dotyczący historii polskiego alpinizmu i himalaizmu kobiecego

oraz dokonano prezentacji “Himalaizm kobiecy -odbudowa pozycji liderek w światowym himalaizmie”

undefined

2009 r. Festiwal Filmów Górskich w Krakowie

Rozmowy w środowisku wspinających się kobiet

Fot. ze zbiorów Danuty Wach

Festiwal F. G. Kraków 2009 r.

Spotkanie pokoleń

Fot. ze zbiorów Danuty Wach

Festiwal F.G. Kraków 2009r.

2009r marzec -pierwsze zgrupowanie w Morskim Oku

….zgrupowanie czas zacząć…..!!!

Fot. ze zbiorów Joanny Piotrowicz

Pani Marysia Łapińska – kierowniczka schroniska w Morskim Oku wpisuje się na okolicznościowym plakacie “ Spotkania Alpinistek”

Fot. Joanna Piotrowicz

schronisko Morskie Oko, marzec 2009 r.

….rozmowy o wspinaniu….

Fot. Agnieszka Polak

schronisko Morskie Oko, marzec 2009 r.

Na wieczornym wykładzie o górach…

Fot. Joanna Piotrowicz

schronisko Morskie Oko, marzec 2009r.

Co z tym naszym alpinizmem……rozważania przy herbatce…

Fot .Irena Kladzińska

schronisko Mrskie Oko, marzec 2009 r.

Ćwiczenia na lodospadach na progu Czarnego Stawu

Fot. Irena Kladzińska

Morskie Oko, marzec 2009 r.

Ćwiczenia na lodospadach

Fot. Irena Kladzńska

Morskie Oko, marzec 2009 r.

Zajęcia w terenie śnieżnym: budowanie jamy śnieżnej, przygotowanie biwaku

Fot. Ze zbiorów Ireny Kladzińskiej

Morskie Oko, marzec 2009 r.

Dziewczyny na lodospadach w Dolinie Białej Wody; wspina się Małgosia…

Fot. ze zbiorów Małgosi Olszewskiej

zgrupowanie- marzec 2009r.

2010 kwiecień – drugie zgrupowanie sportowe

… na wykładzie….

Fot.Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Schronisko Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r .

rozważania o górach…wykłady

Fot. Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Schronisko Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

…zagrożenia lawinowe…wykład Maćka Pawlikowskiego

Fot.Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Schronisko Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010r.

….na co jutro idziemy…dyskusje…

Fot. Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Schronisko Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010r.

Konsultacje z instruktorem Jasiem Muskatem

Fot.Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Schronisko Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

….pogoda była zmienna ….

Fot.Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko , kwiecień 2010r.

…wystarczyło kilka godzin “lampy”, by …

Fot. Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

… nagle wyjechał Ściek na Kotle Kazalnicy…

Fot.Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Morskie Oko , kwiecień 2010r.

…a potem poszło ścianami…

Fot. Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Morskie Oko , kwiecień 2010 r.

Wspinaczka, ćwiczenia na Buli pod Bandziochem

Fot. Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

Śniegu było dużo …

Fot. Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

Dziewczyny na “Wesołej Zabawy”

Fot. Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

Zespoły w ścianie…Pogoda nie rozpieszczała.

Fot. Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010r.

Radość…droga zrobiona……Ewelina i Małgosia

Fot. Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

… czujne oko instruktora:…Jasiu Muskat

Fot. Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

..nadzoruje….Jacek Jania -instruktor w trakcie zajęć…

Fot. ze zbiorów Jacka Jani

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

… koniec wspinania – pakujemy sprzęt…

Fot. Jacek Jania

Morskie Oko, kwiecień 2010 r.

2010 wrzesień -trzecie zgrupowanie sportowe

W starym schronisku przy Morskim Oku -narada przed drogą…..

Z lewej Ela i Rysiu Pertyńscy – zaproszeni lekarze alpiniści

Fot. Irena Kladzińska

w Morskim Oku, wrzesień 2010 r

Stare schronisko …czas na deser……

Fot.Danuta Wach

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

W drodze na Przełęcz pod Chłopka

Fot. Ryszard Pertyński

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Pod ścianą Zamarłej Turni- zespół przed wejściem w “Festiwal Granitu”

Fot. ze zbiorów Justyny Florczak

zgrupowanie M. Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Zamarła Turnia – już czas na wspinanie

Justyna Florczak

zgrupowanie M. Oko , wrzesień 2010 r.

Zamarła Turnia- Festiwal Granitu – wspina się Danka

Justyna Florczak

zgrupowanie M. Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Zamarła Turnia – Joanna w akcji …

Fot. Justyna Florczak

zgrupowanie M. Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Zamarła Turnia ….nadciąga burza…

Fot. Justyna Florczak

zgrupowanie M. Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

po wspinaczce:….jak miło w schronisku

Fot. Danuta Wach

Morskie Oko , wrzesień 2010 r.

Ściana czołowa filara Kopy Spadowej – “Pachniesz brzoskwinią” – prowadzi Magda

Fot. Danuta Przybylska

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Było zimno -” Skłodowski” na ścianie czołowej Kopy Sadowej

Fot. ze zbiorów Danuty Przybylskiej

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Kopa Spadowa – ” Skłodowski” – trawers, asekuruje Beta

Fot. ze zbiorów Danuty Przybylskiej

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Kopa spadowa – “Skłodowski” – na czwartym stanowisko asekuruje Danka

Fot. ze zbiorów Danuty Przybylskiej

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010r

Stare schronisko- zespół ze “Skłodowskiego” w komplecie

Fot. Danuta Wach

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r

Mnich od północnego zach. – Ania w zacięciu na Robakiewiczu

Fot. Irena Kladzińska

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

Mnich – “Międzymiastowa”- prowadzi Regina

Fot. ze zbiorów Reginy Kasprzyckiej

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r

Mnich – ” Międzymiastowa”- Regina Na stanowisku

Fot. ze zbiorów Reginy Kasprzyckiej

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r

Koniec wspinaczki- powrót zespołów z Zadniego Mnicha- instruktor czeka….

Fot. Irena Kladzińska

Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r

Do zobaczenia… zimą

Fot. Ryszard Pertyński Morskie Oko, wrzesień 2010 r.

…już czas na piękne drogi zimowe….Mięguszowieckie Szczyty czekają

undefined Fot. Katarzyna Brzoskwinia

zestawiła

Danuta Wach

zobacz też: “Kobiecy alpinizm w polskim związku sportowym”

* źródło : PZA

[26 października 2010, Marek Karnecki]

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest fall season summits and Cho Oyu too.

American Eric Larsen and his four Sherpa climbers bagged the first Everest fall season summits in four years today at noon. On Cho Oyu, Adrian Sanchez reported summiting on October 7. The “Jordis” are preparing for a summit push on Lhotse’s south face; Daisuke Honda’s body was found on Dhaulagiri.

Everest

Eric Larsen and his Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years today. The team topped-out at 12:30PM after climbing from C4 in the South Col route, using supplementary O2.

* This image was originally posted to http://savethepoles.com/press/

Safely back in C4 at the South Col, Eric heartedly thanked his Sherpa team for an amazing job. They fixed all the route from the Col on the way to the summit.

The team took advantage of the so-called weather window, identified by ExplorersWeb’s weather team. Check a story published five years ago, but still applicable here.

Forecasts show heavy snow storms in the upcoming days and then increasing winds.

Cho Oyu

Argentinean climber Adrian Sanchez, who turned back on a summit push together with Ecuadorian Santiago Quintero on October 6, reportedly climbed again from C2 and, taking advantage of the open trail, topped-out the following day. A detailed report and summit images are expected.

Meanwhile, Santiago launched yet another summit push yesterday. Weakened and fighting strong wind and the bitter cold, Santiago retreated one more time from the summit plateau.

Lhotse

Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tosas were on their way back to BC after climbing a portion of Lhotse’s south face. In spite of loads of snow reported, once they get some rest will be ready to launch a definite summit bid. Descent may be done via Lhotse-Everest normal route.

Israel Blanco left the expedition due to illness last week.

Dhaulagiri

Search parties have found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche two weeks ago. Daisuke’s remains were found buried in the snow at about 5,000 meters.

Update on Lukla plane crash

No one was hurt in the plane crash at Lukla airport earlier this week, SummitClimb team reported. “Apparently, his brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose,”

The airport was closed for hours, which added to the previous delays due to bad weather conditions. Also, an airline’s labor union went on strike at the airport on Wednesday.

Mustang 6000ers ski

“When I broke my ankle on May 1 last spring, I was at 17,600 feet on Baruntse,” Ben Clark wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb. “Now here I am again today, returning to wrestle with ambition and not the ankle. Baruntse will lay on the shelf until Spring 2012. Tonight our crooked spines will rest easy knowing we have arrived in Nepal for great skiing in the province of Mustang, where we will climb and ski a 6,000-meter peak named Saribung.”

* Previous story :

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Summits Everest, Completes Save The Poles Expedition!

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen In Camp 3, High Winds Predicted For Summit Day.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen Begins Summit Push On Everest.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu update, Pauner about Manaslu summit, Everest C4, Lama Geshe recovering.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

Youngest On Everest Update: China Sets Age Limit On Everest.

Youngest On Everest Update: Nepal Grants Sherpa Permission.

Youngest On Everest: Worst Fears Realized?

Everest 2010: Busy Weekend At The Summit.

Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

* Related Links :

Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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