K2 Winter 2017: Final Preparations by alanarnette.com.

Autor: Alan Arnette

K2

After multiple attempts to summit K2 in winter, a Polish team is finalizing their plans to attempt the last 8000er not summited in winter. They will arrive in Pakistan after Christmas this year, 2017.

K2 is the world’s 2th highest mountain at 28,251’/8611m. It is located in northwest Pakistan about 30 miles from the border with India. K2 is called the Mountaineer Mountain and the Savage Mountain for its deadly and difficult reputation.

Additional Member

The expedition has been in the planning stages for years but perhaps one of the biggest last minute changes is that elite Kazakstan alpinist Denis Urubko will join the team. He has held Polish citizenship since February 2015. See this recent interview with Urubko in Alpinsimonline. 

The entire expedition is being lead by 67 year-old Krzysztof Wielicki who lead the last Polish K2 attempt in 2003. Wielicki has summited all of the 8000ers without supplemental oxygen.

This report from PPA revealed a tremendous amount of gear being transported to base camp: 600 kg (1322 lbs) of cargo in addition to 400 kg (881 lbs) they will travel with as they move to base camp. This includes thousands of meters of rope, anchors, pitons, snow bars, tents, food, stove, fuel and a lot more that’s part of modern expeditions.

The Polish Ministry of Sport and Tourism has funded the expedition to the tune of $275,000. Jasmine Tours in Pakistan is the ground agent for the team and will provide 6 high altitude climbers from Pakistan for the expedition support.

The team is composed of Adam Bielecki, Marek Chmielarski, Rafał Fronia, Janusz Gołąb, Marcin Kaczkan, Artur Małek, Piotr Tomala, Jarosław Botor and Dariusz Załuski in addiiton to Urubko and Wielicki.

K2 routes

K2 Routes: Abruzzi and Česen

It is planned that they will take the Česen aka Basque Route but may evaluate the Abruzzi as well.

The most significant obstacle the Poles will encounter is the weather. Even in the summer it is unpredictable, harsh and deadly. High winds have blown climbers off the summit, avalanches have killed climbers in their tents at high camps and some have simply disappeared. But the weather is the wild card. They will need winds under 60 kph/40mph for a safe ascent.

It appears the team will do the standard siege style climb establishing four camps as they set the route with a fixed rope and stock camps with food and fuel. They will not be using supplemental oxygen while climbing.

… more –  K2 Winter 2017: Final Preparations

Autor : Alan Arnette

* source: –  http://www.alanarnette.com/blog

** see also: – Everest and K2 in the Winter by alanarnette.com.

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Everest and K2 in the Winter by alanarnette.com.

Recommended by us…. amazing website …

Everest and K2 in the Winter.

Will there be a winter summit of Everest and finally on K2 this winter? This is always a question as we approach winter. And teams usually keep their plans quiet. The recent suspects include Alex Txikon on Everest and the Poles on K2.

To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 201, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT.

Also to be fully certified as a winter ascent, not only the summit has to be reached within the winter calendar, but the start of the expedition cannot be before winter solstice either. Practically this means that the Base Camp must be reached after the winter solstice.

8000ers in Winter

As this table shows, Polish climbers have dominated first winter ascents of the 8000 meter peaks.

K2 This Winter?

Of course, K2 remains the only 8000er not summited in winter. Last year, Nanga Parbat succumbed to the team of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger. It took 31 winter attempts before summiting Nanga in winter.

Now on K2, Krzysztof Wielicki, 67, who was in the first team to scale Everest in winter in 1980 will lead the Polish K2 attempt this winter.

Funding had been a problem but it appears they have received $275,000 from the Polish Ministry of Sport and Tourism according to this article.

They will be a team of 10 but only four will be on the “summit team.” They will climb in traditional siege style establishing several camps along the route. Of course weather is the primary concern as K2 is always hit with high winds but in winter the jet stream tends to sit on top of it with 200 mph winds and experience heavy snowfall.

The team is scheduled to include: Janusz Goląb, 50, with a Gasherbum I ascent, Artur Małek, who made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak, Marcin Kaczkan, K2 in the winter of 2002/03 to 7,600m and summited K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer, plus Marek Chmielarski, summits of Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak.

Other team members include Rafał Fronia (Lhotse and Gasherbrum II), Piotr Tomala (Broad Peak and Cho Oyu), Dariusz Załuski (filmmaker / climbed five 8,000-metre peaks) and doctor Krzysztof Wranicz.

They are not sure which route they will take but it most likely will be either the Abruzzi or the Česen.

See this post for a nice overview of K2 winter attempts. But these are the highlights from Gripped:

  • 1980 Reconnaissance: Pol Andrzej Zawada and Canadian-resident Polish national Jaques Olek
  • 1987/88 Attempt: 13 Poles, 7 Canadians and 4 Brits / made to Camp 3
  • 2002/03 Attempt: 14 climbers from Poland, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Georgia / made Camp 4
  • 2011/12 Attempt: 9 climbers from Russia / made Camp 2
  • 2014/15 Near Attempt: Denis Urubko and team lost permit

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

* source: – Everest and K2 in the Winter

** see also – Polish Team Prepares for Winter Ascent of K2.

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Polish Team Prepares for Winter Ascent of K2.

A few weeks back I took a look at some of the upcoming mountaineering expeditions scheduled to take place this coming winter. Chief amongst them was the Polish team that is targeting K2 this year, which as you know is the only 8000-meter peak that remains unclimbed during the winter season. Now, we’re starting to get more details on this attempt, and it is safe to say that this team is incredibly serious about reaching the summit of the “Savage Mountain.”

Alan Arnette has posted a story about the expedition, sharing some interesting insights into their approach to the climb. He notes that the squad will consist of Adam Bielecki, Marek Chmielarski, Rafał Fronia, Janusz Gołąb, Marcin Kaczkan, Artur Małek, Piotr Tomala, Jarosław Botor, Dariusz Załuski, and Denis Urubko. The team leader for the expedition famed Polish alpinist Krzysztof Wielicki, who is 67 years-old but comes with a wealth of experience. Wielicki lead the last Polish K2 attempt in 2003 and has summited all of the 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.

Unlike teams in the past who have arrived on the mountain on December 21 – the first day of winter – the Poles are planning on reaching Base Camp sometime after Christmas. They’ll apparently be bringing a lot of gear and supplies with them, as the team reportedly has 600 kg (1322 pounds) of cargo that is being carried by porters, while they’ll bring another 400 kg (881 pounds) themselves. Alan also reports that the Polish Ministry of Sport and Tourism is backing the winter attempt on K2 with $275,000 in funds as well.

The current plan is to make the attempt up the Česen Route, although the Poles haven’t ruled out scouting the Abruzzi Route either. If conditions prove better on one of those paths as compared to the other, this gives them the flexibility to change course. As Alan points out, their biggest obstacle is likely to be the weather, which is extremely challenging even during the summer months. Cold temperatures, high winds, heavy snow, and unexpected avalanches have all conspired to keep previous winter attempts from reaching the summit, and this season will likely be no different.

At the moment, we’re still several weeks away from the start of the expedition, but the team is now hurriedly putting their last minute plans together, preparing for journey to Pakistan, and the long weeks ahead of them in a cold and inhospitable place. This climb will not be easy and will test them from day 1, and of course we’ll be following it closely in the days ahead. It should be a fascinating adventure to say the least.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: –  Polish Team Prepares for Winter Ascent of K2

** see also: –

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Best of Himalman’s Weblog.

1.Best pictures:

everest.jpg

Everest – photo by Ryszard Pawłowski – Polish International Mt Everest expedition 99

polish_international_mt_everest_expedition99_415.jpg
Everest – photo by Ryszard Pawłowski – Polish International Mt Everest expedition 99

2 Best post on my site :

Polish famous climbers – The golden decade of Polish Himalayan mountaineering.

30 rocznica zimowego wejścia na Mt. Everest: droga do sukcesu.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Latest Headlines – avalanche killed 19 climbers and Sherpas.

An earthquake-triggered avalanche slammed into hundreds of tents at … least 61 people injured and a total of 19 climbers and Sherpas dead.

1. Mount Everest avalanche triggered by Nepal earthquake kills 18: reports

Updated 26 Apr 2015, 12:32am

An Indian army mountaineering team has found 18 bodies on Mount Everest, an army spokesman said, after a massive earthquake in Nepal unleashed an avalanche on the world’s tallest mountain at the start of the main climbing season.

The earthquake hit Nepal and north India on Saturday afternoon, killing more than 1,300 people and collapsing buildings in Kathmandu.

Nepal’s Tourism Ministry could only confirm 10 deaths, but spokesman Gyanendra Shrestha said the death toll could rise, and that the avalanche had buried part of the base camp.

He said two tents at the camp had been filled with the injured.

More than 1,000 climbers had gathered there at the start of the climbing season, including about 400 foreigners.

One of those killed was Dan Fredinburg, a Google engineer based in California.

He died as a result of head injuries when the avalanche hit, according to a statement from the mountaineering company that had taken him to base camp.

Climbers on the world’s highest mountain have pleaded for help, saying an avalanche has destroyed camps and sent slabs of ice crashing in a “huge disaster”.

“An avalanche from Mt Pumori has hit the base camp, burying a part of it,” Nepalese tourism official Gyanendra Shrestha said.

“We don’t have the details yet, but 10 have been reported dead so far, including foreign climbers.”

“We are trying to assess how many are injured. There might be over 1,000 people there right now, including foreign climbers and Nepalese supporting staff.”

Romanian climber Alex Gavan said on Twitter that there had been a “huge avalanche” and “many, many” people were up on the mountain.

“Running for life from my tent. Everest base camp huge earthquake then huge avalanche,” he said.

“Huge disaster. Helped searched and rescued victims through huge debris area. Many dead. Much more badly injured. More to die if not heli asap,” he later tweeted.

Another climber, Daniel Mazur, said Everest base camp had been “severely damaged” and his team was trapped.

“Please pray for everyone,” he said on his Twitter page.

Carsten Lillelund Pedersen, a Danish climber, said about 40 people were being treated in a makeshift hospital at a tent at base camp.

He said many of those injured had back injuries from being hit by rocks and ice when running from the avalanche.

The poor visibility after the first avalanche meant it was “difficult to see the following avalanches, and there are so many – maybe one every five minute – that I have stopped counting”, Mr Pedersen said on Facebook.

* more…

* see also :

1. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/apr/12/mount-everest-sherpa-disaster-one-year-on

2. www.cnn.com/2014/04/18/world/asia/nepal-everest-avalanche/

3. www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-27075638

4. www.cbsnews.com/…/earthquake-triggered-avalanche-kills-sherpa…

5. http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/02/01/everest-2016-welcome-to-everest-2016-coverage/

*

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Pakistan wrap-up – details on Nanga Parbat new route attempt.

Simone Moro takes us into the world of winter mountaneering. After his first winter ascents of Gasherbrum II he introduces us to his next project: to climb Nanga Parbat with Denis Urubko.

Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012

Pakistan wrap-up: details on Nanga Parbat new route attempt. (Posted: Feb 02, 2012 02:46 pm EST)

(Angela Benavides) Brilliant sunshine is treating all climbers to a nice winter break, unfortunately the current window came a bit early for summit pushes. Yesterday Denis spoke of the new route he and Simone hope to do on Nanga Parbat. Messner, who once commenced it, hopes the two will finish it. Nanga Parbat: Denis and Simone for a double-firstAlthough known as the Messner route, the South Tyrolean actually never completed the line that Simone and Denis have deviated to. Should they succeed, they would thus bag a double…

* CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE READING

Unfavourable Conditions Stalls Summit Attempt for Moro and Urubko. (Posted: January 31, 2012)

Nanga Parbat base camp 4230m -16 C°

Today was supposed to be the last day of rest and tomorrow the planned departure for Denis and Simone to begin the planned one week stretch of climb to attempt the summit. But as it is ultimately important to have the right weather conditions, the team must now wait a few more days as the forecast for the next days is not favourable.

In a message from base camp, the team said;

“Karl Gabl, our weather guru in Innsbruck, should have authorized us to go. Unfortunately the forecast is not good and only two days of good weather is expected, following with snow and wind up to 140km/h at 8000mt altitude. So we will have to wait and it looks like we have to wait for a while.”

   Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012

Weather Conditions Confirm Forecast; Moro and Urubko Train Instead. (Posted: February 1, 2012)

Nanga Parbat Base Camp 4230m – -12° C

   Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012

Karl Gabl is always right! The weather today began with sun so we started to train a bit. A 4 hours walk down to Kutgully using snow shoes and setting up a route for the shepas who will come tomorrow bringing food and fuel to sustain us for the next month.

We walked pretty well and set a really good path through the valley. On the way back from Kutgully the sky became cloudy but we expect some light snow fall tomorrow as forecasted by our weather guru in Innsbuck.

Story: Simone Moro/ Denis Urubko
Photo: Matteo Zanga

* Source : – http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/category/nanga-parbat/

* Related Links : – winter-expedition

** Previous story :

Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Moro and Urubko expedition Video Dispatch.

Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Simone and Urubko Acclimatize at Camp 3 – 6600m.

Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Moro and Urubko Reach Basecamp 4230mt.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part4. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part4.

Winter expedition starts! The expedition is going to operate from December 2011 to March 2012 and climb via classic route leads from the west side and in the upper parts goes through the so-called “Japanese Couloir”, situated in the highest part of the north-west face. This route is the aim of the expedition, whose main task is to ascend in winter for the first time in history the eleventh highest mountain in the world.


Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011_2012 – route

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 8,068 m led by Artur Hajzer ,

Artur Hajzer

the team : Adam Bielecki, Agnieszka Bielecka, Janusz Gołąb.

Report of January 27, 2012, Friday

Adam Bielecki after spending a night in camp 1.

  • Report of January 27, 2012, Friday
  • Wind at 6,000 m above sea level – 30 km/h, at 7,000 m above sea level – 45 km/h (yesterday at 6,000 m it blew with 45 km/h)
  • Cloudiness 100%; clouds’ level – 6,200 m above sea level
  • No snowfall (approx. 15 cm of snow fell at night)
  • Temperature in the base camp is -20°C (yesterday at 6,000 m it was -30°C)

Yesterday at 4:30 PM local time, Adam Bielecki together with two high altitude porters, Ali and Shaheen, established camp 1 at 5,930 m above sea level. Today at 6 AM local time Artur and Janusz have set off to transport a part of deposit to camp 1 and tomorrow they are going to make a reconnaissance of a route towards camp 2. Today Adam, Shaheen and Ali have descended to the base camp at approximately 2 PM.

Adam describes yesterday’s set off in the following way:

We set off at 6:40 AM and already at 9:30 AM, after a fast march, we reached the place, where we left our deposit two days ago. It turned out that the deposit place was only 30 minutes away from the so-called lower plateau, through which our route led. The route was not very difficult despite the cracks covered with snow. However, the next glacial barrier turned out to be difficult in terms of finding one’s way and very dangerous – each of us fell into a crack at least ones and Ali even experienced a 4-meter fall into one of them. A route through numerous brittle snow bridges and ice walls led us to the upper plateau. Its terrain seemed technically easy – almost flat snow surface, however, it turned out that the plateau was transected with very wide, parallel cracks that forced us to weave our way and follow our footsteps back in order to walk around the cracks. It was impossible to walk around one of them, thus we had to walk down to its bottom (approx. 40 m) and search for an exit on the other side. We managed to find it after approx. 300 m of walking on the bottom of the crack!

Weather conditions were gradually worsening during the day, what basically meant increasingly stronger wind. Camp 1 was reached at approx. 4:30 PM; we put up a tent while copying with a very strong wind. In practice it meant a constant fight with possible frostbites; after every single activity we had to warm up our fingers. At approx. 6:00 PM we could rest in our sleeping bags; we were too exhausted to eat.

Although today in the morning our footsteps have been partly covered with snow, GPS has helped us to find our way back without problems. At approx. 11:00 AM, halfway through the lower plateau, we have met Janusz and Artur, given them the GPS with the marked route to camp 1, wished them luck and after three hours reached the base camp; on our way we have also rigged the ropes next to two especially nasty cracks.

At the time of writing this report (4:40 PM), Artur and Janusz are approx. one hour away from camp 1.

Saved from an unplanned bivouac by a gps

In one of our first reports we described the icefall: how it changed, how difficult it was and that we covered 70% of the road at this stage. However, we were wrong. As it turned out, we covered only 30% of it and the rest was equally difficult. The difficulty did not lie with rubble or seracs; the main problem was to find a way through the gigantic crevasses. The team consisting in Bielecki, Sadpara and Baig that on 26th January established camp 1 showed great strength and determination.

On 27th January Janusz Gołąb and me (Artur Hajzer) followed them. We set off, according to the rules, at 6 AM. Adam informed us via radio that the route leading to camp 1 had been long and exhausting and that probably we would fail to make it to camp 1, but if we planned to do so, we had to take with us a light assault tent and be prepared for a bivouac. We felt insulted. We would not make it? By following a route? By following their footsteps? What was going on? Was Adam pulling my leg?

We met Adam’s descending team between the icefalls at approx. 11:30 AM. Adam went on talking: “Guys it’s far away! It may happen that you won’t manage to get there. I’ll give you my GPS.” And he gave it to us. We took it with a slight idea about how to use it and continued walking. We were ascending while Adam, Ali and Shaheen were descending. We walked … and walked … and walked … and walked between the blocks of seracs, in ice canyons and between various crevasses. Unfortunately, on the hard patches of the upper plateau weak traces of crampons of Adam’s team were invisible. We could not follow their traces. There were also no tracers, because at this stage Adam’s team had already used all of them and they did not have a possibility to mark the entire route. The hike was getting complicated. The route was meandering often into the opposite direction than the presumed camp.

At approx. 4:00 PM the things got serious. We realized that the day was coming to an end and the camp was nowhere to be seen. Moreover, we were not sure if we were on the right track. The only things left were the GPS and necessity to speed up our pace. The GPS showed only a thin green line (the route marked by Adam) and a white triangle (us). The picture kept on rotating, but as long as the triangle was on the green line we felt safe. At 5:00 PM it grew dark and the GPS indicated that we were not too far away from the camp. We started to run regardless of crevasses that we mostly managed to jump over. Once my body fell into an abyss, but Janusz successfully blocked the rope, I got out and we continued the run. It got dark. We stared at the GPS. Adam told us over the radio how to zoom in the picture and use the GPS to show us the camp in a straight line. We zoomed in. According to the GPS, the camp was 200 m away. However, we could not modify the setting of the GPS so that it showed the camp in the straight line. We were running round in circles – it went without saying that it was an aimless activity. At 6:30 PM it was completely dark. We pored over the GPS. We stopped to move, wet PrimaLoft® overalls lost their heating properties; we started to shiver. We used the GPS by means of a tip of an ice axe or bare fingers. One minute – Janusz, one minute – me. Adam told us to enter the menu and use “find.” The GPS was misty; I could not read the small letters on the screen. Janusz took over the device and also failed to locate “find.” It was getting colder and colder; I warmed up my fingers. Janusz claimed that we could manage to dig a snow pit. We had gas and some food. I zoomed in Adam’s route on the GPS showing that the camp was 48 m away from us. I slowly followed the GPS’ directions and Janusz went after me. I heard Janusz: “It’s there, I can see it on the right!” We found the camp. It was 7:20 PM. We reached the camp – I notified the base camp. In the base camp – where since the last two hours the situation was also tense – everyone relaxed. We put up a tent and everything was fine. In the morning we started to descend to the base camp and it took us an entire day. Taking into account this terrain, it did not matter whether we were going up or down; the pace was almost the same. The route was difficult and far regardless the direction. The situation is completely different in summer. In winter the glacier is more “open.”

All in all, we have camp 1 – so much exhaustion, fear and work and it is only the first camp. What is going to happen at higher altitudes?! For the main fight is to take place above 7,000 m. During our stay in camp 1 we could have a look at a pass leading to camp 2. There is also an open glacier. Hmm … what will happen?

Artur Hajzer


Base camp at the foot of GI, January 30, 2012

Good weather for the summit attempt.

Cloudiness 30%

Temperature -20°C

Wind – weak S/W

No snowfall

Tomorrow Adam Bielecki, Ali and Shaheen are going to leave the base camp in order to try to establish camp 2. Hajzer-Gołąb team is going to act according to their progress. The weather during these days is good the second year in the row. Jet stream moved over the south Pakistan. At 8,000 m above sea level the wind blows with 50 km/h. On 1st February the weather is supposed to be exceptionally good – sunny and without wind. We would not be surprised if other teams attempted the summit and succeeded. However, we would like to remind you that our strategy included attempts at the end of February and the beginning of March. Winter tactics is a roulette, but we believe in our assumptions.

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part3. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

** see :

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12 – cz.4.

Relacja 27.01. 2012 piątek

  • Relacja 27.01. 2012 piątek
  • Wiatr na 6000 m n.p.m. – 30 km/h, na 7000 m n.p.m.- 45 km/h (wczoraj na 6000 45 km/h)
  • Zachmurzenie 100% pułap chmur 6200 m n.p.m.
  • Opad brak (w nocy spadło ok 15 cm)
  • Temperatura w bazie minus 20*C (wczoraj na 6000 minus 30*C)

Wczoraj o 16:30 czasu lokalnego Adam Bielecki wraz z dwoma tragarzami wysokogórskimi Alim i Shaheenem założyli obóz pierwszy na wysokości 5930 m n.p.m. Dzisiaj o 6 rano czasu lokalnego Artur i Janusz wyszli przenieść część depozytu do obozu pierwszego i jutro zrobić rozpoznanie drogi w kierunku obozu drugiego. Adam, Shaheen i Ali zeszli dzisiaj około 14:00 do bazy.

Adam opisuje wczorajsze wyjście następująco:
Wyruszyliśmy o 6:40 rano i już o 9:30 po bardzo szybkim marszu osiągnęliśmy miejsce złożonego dwa dni wcześniej depozytu. Miejsce depozytu okazało się być położone zaledwie pół godziny drogi od tak zwanego dolnego plateau, którym wiodła dalsza droga. Droga ta była niezbyt trudna, pomimo przysypanych śniegiem szczelin. Dopiero następna bariera lodowcowa okazała się trudna orientacyjnie i bardzo niebezpieczna – każdy z nas przynajmniej raz wpadł do szczeliny, a Ali zaliczył czterometrowy lot w głąb jednej z nich. Niezliczona ilość kruchych mostów śnieżnych, oraz ścianek lodowych doprowadziła nas do górnego plateau. Jego teren wydawał się łatwy technicznie – praktycznie płaska, śnieżna powierzchnia, jednakże jak się okazało była ona poprzecinana bardzo szerokimi, równoległymi szczelinami, co zmuszało nas do niekończącego kluczenia i wracania po własnych śladach celem obejścia tych szczelin. Jedna z nich okazała się nie do ominięcia, co zmusiło nas do zejścia na jej dno (około 40 m) i szukania wyjścia po drugiej stronie. Udało się to po około 300 metrach marszu dnem szczeliny!

Warunki pogodowe w ciągu dnia sukcesywnie się pogarszały, co oznaczało przede wszystkim coraz silniejszy wiatr. Obóz I osiągnęliśmy około godziny 16:30, namiot rozbijaliśmy przy bardzo silnym wietrze. W praktyce oznacza to nieustającą walkę z ryzykiem odmrożeń, po każdej najdrobniejszej czynności musieliśmy zadbać o rozgrzanie palców. Koło 18:00 bardzo zmęczeni mogliśmy odpocząć opatuleni śpiworami, na jedzenie byliśmy zbyt zmęczeni.
Dzisiaj rano pomimo tego, że zasypało część naszych śladów, GPS pomógł nam sprawnie odnaleźć drogę powrotną. Około godziny 11:00 spotkaliśmy w połowie dolnego plateau, podchodzących do góry Janusza i Artura, przekazaliśmy im GPS z zapisem drogi do obozu I, życzyliśmy powodzenia i po trzech godzinach dotarliśmy do bazy, po drodze poręczując jeszcze dwie szczególnie nieprzyjemne szczeliny.

W momencie pisania relacji (16:40) Artur i Janusz znajdują się około godziny drogi od obozu pierwszego.

Około 18.30 czasu lokalnego Artur j Janusz szczęśliwie dotarli do jedynki. Spędzą tam noc, i jutro – o ile pogoda pozwoli – będą chcieli wyjść wyżej na rekonesans w kierunku planowanego obozu drugiego.

GPS ratuje przed niespodziewanym biwakiem

W jednej z pierwszych relacji, opisywaliśmy icefall: jak bardzo się zmienił, jak bardzo jest trudny i że pokonaliśmy około 70% drogi na tym etapie. Myliliśmy się, jak się okazało pokonaliśmy wtedy zaledwie 30% a w dalszej części drogi trudności nie spadały. Jednakże trudnością nie było rumowisko, zwaliska seraków, głównie trudności skupiały się na wyszukaniu drogi pomiędzy monumentalnych rozmiarów szczelinami. Dużą siłą i determinacją wykazał się zespół Bielecki, Sadpara, Baig, który 26.01 założył obóz pierwszy.

27.01. Janusz Gołąb i ja (Artur Hajzer)ruszyliśmy za nimi. Wystartowaliśmy przepisowo o godzinie 6 rano. Adam zakomunikował nam przez radio, że droga do obozu pierwszego jest tak długa i wyczerpująca, że raczej nie dojdziemy, a jeśli mamy taki plan to na wszelki wypadek powinniśmy zabrać ze sobą, lekki namiot szturmowy i liczyć się z biwakiem. Odebraliśmy tę sugestię jako afront. Jak to my mamy nie dojść? I to po wytyczonej już trasie? Po ich śladach? O co chodzi? Adam kpi czy o drogę pyta?

Schodzący zespół Adama spotkaliśmy pomiędzy lodospadami około 11:30. Adam znowu swoje: „Chłopaki jest daleko! Może się zdarzyć, że nie dojdziecie. Dam wam GPS.” I dał. Wzięliśmy ten GPS bez większego pojęcia jak go używać i ruszyliśmy dalej. My w górę, a Adam , Ali i Shaheen w dół. I szliśmy… szliśmy… szliśmy i…. szliśmy, pomiędzy blokami seraków, w lodowych kanionach, pomiędzy różnej szerokości szczelinami. Niestety na twardych połaciach górnego plateau wątłe ślady po zębach raków Adama i ekipy przestały być widoczne. Nie mogliśmy liczyć na ślady poprzedników. Nie było też traserów bo na tym etapie zespołowi Adama, już ich zabrakło, i nie mieli możliwości oznaczenia całej drogi. Dalsza wędrówka komplikowała się. Droga prowadziła kilkusetmetrowymi zakosami, często w przeciwnym kierunku niż domniemany obóz.

Około godziny 16:00 zrobiło się poważnie Dotarło do nas, że dzień się kończy a obozu ani widu ani słychu. Nie mieliśmy też pewności czy jesteśmy na szlaku. Został nam tylko ten GPS i konieczność zdecydowanie przyspieszonego kroku. A w GPSie tylko cienka zielona kreska (zaznaczona przez Adama trasa) i biały trójkącik (my). Jakoś się ten obrazek kręci wokół ale dopóki trójkącik jest na zielonej linii to czujemy się bezpiecznie. Godzina 17:00 zmierzcha GPS wskazuje, że do obozu nie jest już daleko. Zaczynamy biec nie bacząc na szczeliny, które mniej lub bardziej skutecznie przeskakujemy. Raz mój tułów wpada w czeluść ale Janusz skutecznie blokuje mnie liną wychodzę i zasuwamy dalej. Robi się ciemno. Wpatrujemy się w GPS. Adam instruuje nas przez radio jak zrobić zbliżenie i generalnie jak posłużyć się GPSem by wskazał kierunek na obóz w linii prostej. Robimy zbliżenie. Obóz znajduje się według wskazań GPSa w promieniu 200m. Nie potrafimy jednak przestawić GPSa żeby wskazał drogę do obozu w linii prostej. Kręcimy się w kółko, nie trzeba dodawać, że bezskutecznie. 18:30 kompletna ciemność. Ślęczymy nad GPSem. Przestajemy się ruszać, mokre primalofty tracą właściwości grzewcze, dopadają nas dreszcze, GPSa obsługujemy końcówką czekana lub gołymi palcami. Jedna minuta Janusz, jedna minuta ja. Adam z bazy mówi nam, żeby wejść do menu i w funkcję „znajdź”. GPS zamglony, nie mogę odczytać małych literek na ekranie. GPS przejmuje Janusz w funkcję „znajdź” nie udaje się wejść. Jest coraz zimniej, rozgrzewam palce. Janusz uważa, że damy radę wykopać jamę śnieżną. Mamy gaz i jakieś żarcie. Zbliżam trasę Adama na GPS, który wskazuję, że obóz powinien się znajdować 48 metry od nas. Idę powolnym krokiem za wskazaniami GPS’a, Janusz za mną. Słyszę Janusza: „Jest, widzę, po prawej!” znaleźliśmy obóz. Jest 19:20. Mamy obóz – melduję do bazy. W bazie – gdzie od ostatnich dwóch godzin też było dość nerwowo – ciśnienie opada. Rozbijamy namiot i wszystko jest w porządku. Rano schodzimy do bazy niemal cały dzień. W tym terenie jest to bez znaczenia czy się idzie w górę czy w dół, tempo niewiele się różni. W każdą stronę jest trudno i daleko. Sytuacja różni się bardzo od tej samej drogi w lecie. W zimie lodowiec jest bardziej „otwarty” – prezentuje.

Koniec końców mamy obóz I, tyle wysiłku, strachu i pracy a to dopiero obóz pierwszy. Co będzie wyżej?! Wszystko ma się przecież rozegrać powyżej 7000. Będąc w „jedynce” przyjrzeć się mogliśmy drodze na przełęcz do obozu II. Tam też otwarty lodowiec. Hmmm… Co to będzie? Co to będzie?

Artur Hajzer

Baza pod GI 30.01.2012

Dobra pogoda na atak szczytowy.

Zachmurzenie 30%

Temperatura -20*C

Wiatr słaby S/W

Brak opadów.

Jutro wychodzi z bazy Adam Bielecki z Alim i Shaheenem z planem założenia obozu II. Zespół Hajzer-Gołąb będzie reagował odpowiednio do ich postępów.

Już drugi rok z rzędu panuje w tych dniach bardzo dobra pogoda. Jet Stream odsunął się nad południowy Pakistan. Wieje słabo – na 8000m n.p.m. do około 50 km/h. 1lutego ma być wyjątkowo dobra pogoda – „bezwietrzna” i słoneczna. Nie bylibyśmy zaskoczeni – gdyby inne wyprawy zaatakowały szczyt i jak rok temu odniosły sukces. Naszą wybraną strategią – przypominamy – są ataki na przełomie lutego i marca. Zimowa taktyka to jednak ruletka, mimo to wierzymy w nasze założenia.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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