Everest 2010: Busy Weekend At The Summit.

Author : Kraig Becker.

As most of you probably already know, it was an incredibly busy weekend on Everest, with a steady stream of climbers going to the summit, taking advantage of the what looks to be the final weather window of the season. Those that jumped the gun, and moved up the mountain early last week were rewarded with great weather on Saturday and Sunday, but high winds moved back in late on Sunday, and are now playing havoc with teams that were hoping to avoid the traffic jams.


Apa Sherpa – Everest south summit.

Two of the climbers who are holding on to hopes that they’ll still have a chance to summit are mountain guide Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker climbing with First Ascent. The duo were hoping to go up last night, but a snow storm moved into the area, and preventing them from making their summit bid. In his latest dispatch to GreatOutdoors.com Dave says that the weather has now shifted, and things are looking good for their final push from the South Col today. He is hoping to earn his 12th summit of Everest.

They aren’t the only ones who will be moving up. Others were also trapped in place at Camp 4, waiting for the snow storm to move on, and are now eager to joint the dozens of other climbers who topped out over the weekend. Obviously, the two names that got the most press over the weekend were 13-year old Jordan Romero, who set a new record for the youngest person to reach the summit, and the legendary Apa Sherpa, who claimed the 20th summit of his illustrious career. But plenty of other notable summits were made as well, such as Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reaching the top, sans oxygen, to earn her 13th 8000 meter peak. First Ascent’s other team, consisting of Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton, also topped out, for their third and sixth summit of the mountain respectively, and Simone Moro stood on top for the 4th time as well.

Summits weren’t the only story of the weekend however, as ExWeb is reporting that Willie Benegas had to rescue an unnamed climber on his descent when they were caught out in the snow storm. The rescue took place above the South Col and in 50+ mph winds.

ExWeb and Alan Arnette are both reporting that some unscrupulous teams were also stealing oxygen bottles at the South Col as well. Climbers were arriving at that point and finding their equipment caches had been raided, with O2 bottles missing. Fortunately, some of the teams returning from the summit had extra bottles left over, and were able to help to equip those who were still going up. It is sad to hear these kinds of stories, as it would be absolutely devastating to not be able to summit because someone else took your oxygen. It is good to hear that most of the teams will work together to support one another however.

It seems that with the weather improved once again today, there will be one last big push to the summit. Expect updates throughout the day from those teams as they go for the summit from both the North and South side of the mountain.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story :

Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Interview with Bernadette McDonald.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

The Gear Junkie Profiles Seven Summiteer.

Interview with Mike Farris: Alone on Everest.

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Interview with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen: The First Finnish Woman on Everest?

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

Author : Kraig Becker.

As expected, the winds died, the sky cleared, and the weather window opened on schedule on Everest today, giving climbers access to the summit from both sides of the mountain. There appears to have been a lot of summits, although as of this writing, I haven’t heard an estimate yet. There were however, two summits of note that I wanted to touch on this morning.

First, on the North Side, 13-year old Jordan Romero successfully reached the top of Everest, setting a new record for the youngest person to accomplish that feat. Jordan has received a ton of media attention prior to the climb, and is sure to receive a lot more today, and while I’m definitely not in favor of these young kids climbing 8000 meter peaks, I’m glad that his climb is over, and he is down safe today. I want to extend a congratulations to Jordan and his whole team. He now has just Mt. Vinson in Antarctica to summit to nab all of the Seven Summits. He’ll head for that peak in the fall.

Apa Sherpa also topped out on the mountain, via the South Side, claiming his 20th summit of the mountain. Apa reached the summit at 8:34 AM local time today, extending his own record for most times on top of the world. Apa is climbing to raise awareness of his own charity, the Apa Sherpa Foundation and to raise awareness of climate change. Congratulations to Apa as well!

Also, congratulations to Mandy Ramsden, climbing with the Adventure Consultants Team. She reached the summit last night as well, becoming the first South African woman to complete the Seven Summits.

More news soon, as it is likely to continue to be a very busy weekend.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story :

Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Interview with Bernadette McDonald.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

The Gear Junkie Profiles Seven Summiteer.

Interview with Mike Farris: Alone on Everest.

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Interview with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen: The First Finnish Woman on Everest?

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Author : Kraig Becker.

High winds that plagued the teams on Everest the past few days have abated some, opening the weather window that is expected to extend through the weekend. As a result, the climbers are on the move again, as they head up to Camp 4, with many hoping to hit the summit tonight.

The high winds yesterday forced some teams, who were en route to Camp 3, to turn back and settle in at Camp 2 instead. The Peak Freaks reported in from Camp 4, where they say that a number of teams are arriving to find their camps completely destroyed by the constant gusts the past few days. Tents and gear have been swept off the mountain, and as a result, some of the climbers may be facing a setback unless more gear can be brought up on time. Fortunately for the PF team, their camps are okay, and their next group of climbers are now in place to go up to the summit.

The First Ascent Teams are both in Camp 2 today, after Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton were one of the teams that turned back while on their way to C3, due to the winds yesterday. As a result, they’re hanging out with Dave Hahn and Lief Whittaker, who were one day behind them in the rotation, but now they’re moving on the same schedule, and may work their way up to the summit together. Hahn is, of course, going for his 12th summit of Everest, the most by a non-Sherpa, with the hope that they’ll top out on Monday.

Also going for a record is Apa Sherpa, who is en route to Camp 4 at the moment, and hoping to make his summit bid tonight as well. If successful, it’ll be his 20th time on top of the mountain, extending his own record. According to his Twitter feed, the weather conditions are excellent as of this writing, and it looks like all systems are go for Apa to head up today.

Chad Kellogg is also hoping to make his attempt on the mountain tomorrow, with an eye on the summit as well. You may recall that the Outdoor Research sponsored athlete is hoping to make a speed climb of the mountain, going from BC to the top in one single push. He plans to set off tomorrow morning at 4:30 AM local time. He’ll be carrying a SPOT Tracker, which should allow all of us to follow along with his progress as he goes. Chad hopes to go to the summit and back in record time. Hopefully the traffic on the mountain tomorrow won’t delay him too much.

On the North Side of the mountain, similar stories are being told of teams moving up, and hoping to be in position to take advantage of this weather window. Amongst them is Jordan Romero, who is now reportedly in Camp 3, and feeling strong. Jordan’s team reports that the skies have cleared, and they can see all the way up to the summit, which bodes well for those climbing from the North Side this weekend. If Jordan stays on the regular schedule, it will appear that he’ll be in position to make his official summit bid on Sunday. Stay tuned for more on that!

Finally, one last word on the weather. This current window looks like it’ll stay open through Monday or so, and after that things get dicey. The next three days are likely to be very busy, with traffic jams, slow moving climbers, and all kind of other issues. Out in the Indian Ocean, a cyclone is starting to exert its will, and that is going to have a profound, and likely lasting, effect on the chances for anyone topping out of Monday or Tuesday. Lets hope everyone is safe going up and down the mountain this weekend. Good luck to all the climbers!

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story :

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Interview with Bernadette McDonald.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

The Gear Junkie Profiles Seven Summiteer.

Interview with Mike Farris: Alone on Everest.

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Interview with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen: The First Finnish Woman on Everest?

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Author : Kraig Becker.

It has been an interesting week on the world’s highest mountain, to say the least. All week long the teams have been moving up the mountain, and attempting to position themselves for an opportunity to take advantage of a possible weather window that could arrive on Sunday. There are conflicting reports as to when, or even if, that window will open, and for how long, but right now, it looks like climbers will be at the South Col tomorrow, hoping to go for the summit on Sunday.

Today a number of teams moved up to Camp 3 in anticipation of the move to C4 tomorrow. They report that high winds are still buffeting the mountain. Jaime Clarke of the Hansebrands Climb With Us Team sent out a tweet earlier today saying that the climb to C3 took several hours longer than expected thanks to those winds, and surprisingly cold temperatures. They did make it to their destination however, and just in time for a hot cup of tea it seems.

The race to the summit that we’ve heard mentioned a few times these past few days seems to be off, at least for now. You may recall that two women, Carina Raiha and Anne-Mari Hyryläinen were both vying to become the first woman from Finland to tag the summit, and each was positioning themselves to make a run at the top. Well, it seems that discretion is the better part of valor, as the Altitude Junkies have announced that they are uneasy about the high winds, and feel they will not dissipate over the weekend, so they have elected to bring Anne-Mari back down the mountain out of concern for her safety. Carina, who is climbing with the Peak Freaks, remains at C3, waiting for the window to open. If it does, she’s likely to stand on top, and win this “race”, but if it doesn’t she’ll go back down as well, and await a second, longer window, which is due next week.

While all of these teams on the South Side scramble for position, on the North there is very little to report. We know that a large Chinese team set out for the upper portion of the mountain a few days back, presumably to fix the lines to the summit, but whether or not that work has been completed remains to be seen. Alan Arnette is reporting in his excellent Everest Blog that David Liano has set off on his summit bid, and it is likely that other climbers are following, hoping to take advantage of this same weather window that the South-Siders are eyeing. If the lines are not set as of yet, those climbers will have a slow slog to the top to say the least.

Finally, the First Ascent Team is one of the top teams that is leading the way up the mountain these past few days. They arrived at Camp 3 yesterday and plan on resting there until tomorrow, when they’ll go to C4. After that, Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton plan on standing on the summit, provided the weather cooperates. Check out the video below in which Melissa discusses their final acclimatization rotation.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story :

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Interview with Bernadette McDonald.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

The Gear Junkie Profiles Seven Summiteer.

Interview with Mike Farris: Alone on Everest.

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Interview with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen: The First Finnish Woman on Everest?

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Author : Kraig Becker.

Despite sketchy weather reports that are predicting a rather narrow weather window to open up over the weekend, more teams seem to be lining up to take their shot at the summit. At the moment, high winds on Everest are preventing anyone from going too high, but that hasn’t stopped teams from jockeying for position none the less.

Take for example the First Ascent Team. The latest update on their blog indicates that they have jumped the line and moved up to Camp 3, while most other teams are still in Camp 2 waiting for the winds to drop. Two members of the FA squad, Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton, moved up to C3 today despite those conditions however, and they are now in an even better position to go for the summit if the window opens as expected. They also report that there are Sherpas higher on the mountain preparing the way for those to follow, and a fresh blanket of new snow over the blue ice, should make the climbing a bit easier.

The Hanesbrand sponsored Climb With Us Team is spending another day in C2 while they watch the winds. Team leader Jaime Clarke and Photographer Scott Simper report that their tent was pounded by high winds all night, and they estimated that higher on the mountain, those winds exceeded 100 miles per hour. But, they are planning on heading up to Camp 3 tomorrow, and then on to Camp 4 on Saturday. Once there, they’ll sit tight on the South Col for the expected window to open, then make a dash to the summit.

The Peak Freaks posted an update on their plans earlier today as well, and they are now eyeing the narrow weather window as well. It seems that they will send a small portion of their squad up to try to take advantage of the window as well. The climbers who will be making the bid are also in Camp 2, waiting to move up, while the Sherpas who are supporting them are already up in C3, where they report that conditions are good, despite the winds.

Interestingly enough, the two Finnish women competing to be the first from their country to summit Everest, are both in Camp 3 as well. Carina Raiha is climbing with the afore mentioned Peak Freaks, while Anne-Mari Hyryläinen is with the Altitude Junkies/Sky Climbers team. In the latest dispatch from that squad, we get the word that while this is an important competition between the ladies, the guides won’t push Anne-Mari if the conditions are not right. They also note that their are varying weather reports at the moment, with one predicting lower winds and another saying they’ll stay dangerously high. Like everyone else, they wait to see what Mother Nature has in store for them.

Yesterday, I suggested the two girls make their final push together, but apparently that won’t be the case. The two teams discussed the option, but they couldn’t come to an agreement, so now it’ll come down to a good old fashioned foot race, with the strongest and smartest coming out on top. Quite literally. Good luck to both of the women.

Not all of the teams are making their bids this weekend however, as the Alpine Ascents squad is just now making it’s way back to Base Camp. They’ll rest up, eat plenty of food, and prepare for the much larger weather window that is expected to open next week. Most of these early summits are to avoid the inevitable traffic jams of the main rush that is yet to come.

Finally, if you want to know what kind of thought and planning goes into finding the proper weather window, check out this blog post over at ApaSherpa.com. It is a brief, but interesting read with some good insights. The post also notes that Apa and Dawa Sherpa, who between them have 35 summits of the mountain, feel that the current winds are unacceptable for making a summit bid. Hmm… interest.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story :

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Interview with Bernadette McDonald.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

The Gear Junkie Profiles Seven Summiteer.

Interview with Mike Farris: Alone on Everest.

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Interview with Anne-Mari Hyryläinen: The First Finnish Woman on Everest?

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /15/ – Week in Review.

This past week was all about Annapurna with 24/7 coverage by ExWeb staff and volunteers. Other news involved a brand new Himalaya heli rescue service and an avalanche on Everest. Here goes a fast wrap of what has been up and what’s ahead.

Annapurna: The final summit push took place in spiking wind. But Annapurna had 19 summits in one day – a record number. That included two new 14x8000ers summiteers: Korean Miss Oh – live on KBS TV network- as the first woman in the world to ever achieve the feat, and Polish Piotr Pustelnik, bagging Anna at last. Other summiteers were Slovak Peter Hamor, Polish Kinga Baranowska, Russians Bogomolov and Vinogradsky, Spaniards Carlos Pauner, Juanito Oiarzabal, Tolo Calafat, Jorge Egocheaga, Martin Ramos, and Romanian Horia Colibasanu. Unfortunately, another record number was due: as the seventh straight year with casualties on the mountain. Descent was hard on everyone with several cases of altitude problems and frostbite. The exhausted Spanish Tolo Calafat passed away after two days in the open at 7600 meters. In vain, a Sherpa searched for the climber for 11 hours carrying O2 and supplies. A heli search was also unsuccessful.

Nepalese Fishtail Air and Swiss Air Zermatt rescue chopper airlifted all climbers who remained in C4 (7000 meters) – Carlos Pauner, Juanito Oiarzabal and Horia Colibasanu – in the highest longline rescue in history. This was the new operation’s second record rescue in one week. The first missions took them to Kyajo Ri, where the body of a Danish climber was recovered, while earlier last week on Manaslu 7 Korean climbers were rescued from 6,500m, with one missing and one confirmed dead. The chopper showed up just hours after the Koreans called SOS. “It’s been an amazing feat,” Spaniards on the mountain commented.

But it wasn’t over for Miss Oh: Instead of savouring the joy of becoming the world’s first 14x8000ers lady summiteer, Korean Oh Eun-Sun is having a tough time. Miss Hawley has decided that her Kangchenjunga summit will remain “disputed” until Edurne changes her mind; while the Korean lady also fights criticism from Annapurna. Today Monday Miss Oh and Black Yak rejected all accusations, stating they cut no rope and also that they can only ask, not force, their sherpas to aid in a rescue.

Everest north side: A Hungarian climber escaped an avalanche which sadly took his climbing mate. The search for Irvine has gone undercover while on the north face, Gerlinde and Ralf are facing the first difficulties.

Everest south side: Simone and Denis fixing the route to the summit this week? Simone Moro, Aldo Garioni and Denis Urubko took a chopper back to Kathmandu for some rest and thick air. The three planned for an early summit push on O2, ahead of other teams including the rope fixing sherpas. What happens after that is still up in the air.

ExWeb editorial: brave new Everest for a changing market A report stating that it has been decided on Everest south side that no western climbers are allowed on the mountain while sherpas fix the route spurred ExWeb founder Tina Sjogren to design a new strategy for changing times.

Dhaulagiri: Iranian summits reported Iran Mountain Zone reported that Iran’s national expedition topped out Dhaulagiri April 26th.

Other Himalayan peaks: Park Young-Seok has abandoned his original plan to open an entirely new route and is instead eyeing a variation of the Bonington route on the south side of Annapurna. Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt have changed their plans on Makalu. A big British Expedition, attempting the SE ridge for the third time with Sherpas and bottled oxygen, are reportedly doing well so far on the mountain while the large, well organized Ukrainian team has been fighting for every meter on the SW Face. 6 or 7 expeditions are on the normal route. On Shisha Pangma, Mario Panzeri’s team is ready for a summit push once the weather settles, possibly together with the Al Filo team. “Right after Annapurna, it feels weird to celebrate another puja in yet another BC,” Edurne reported. “We were following the drama on Annapurna, feeling it very close and yet too far away (we couldn´t go there and help) but now at last I’m focused on the climb ahead.”

Latest news: Philippe Gatta summited Ama Dablam yesterday in pretty rough conditions. Russians have launched a summit push on Lhotse while it’s over for Ben Clark on Baruntse.

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Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz7 – relacje ze zdobycia szczytu.

ONI tego dokonali!! Pustelnik z Koroną Himalajów!

Kinga Baranowska zdobyła Annapurnę – jej 7 ośmiotysięcznik.

“Piotr ma swoją Koronę, ja jej połowę :) “….

27 kwietnia 2010 o godzinie 13:45 czasu lokalnego Piotr zdobył koronę Himalajów. Informacje te potwierdziła Maria Hamorova, która otrzymała smsa od Petera. Wkrótce potem na szczycie stanęła też Kinga Baranowska. Peter jako pierwszy zszedł do C4. Za nim powoli schodzili Piotr i Kinga.  W C4 ekipa spędziła noc i następnie schodzili do dwójki.

ANNAPURNA DREAM 2010 – SYNERGIA POKOLEŃ
KINGA BARANOWSKA, PIOTR PUSTELNIK

11 marca Kinga Baranowska oraz Piotr Pustelnik wyruszyli w Himalaje.

Celem wyprawy była wspinaczka na szczyt Annapurny 8091 m n.p.m. w Nepalu, – dziesiąty co do wysokości szczyt Ziemi.

Opis wyprawy:

Wejście na szczyt przewidziane jest od strony północnej (ściana północna) drogą niemiecką. Annapurna to trudny szczyt. Drogi prowadzące na Annapurnę zarówno od strony północnej jak i południowej, charakteryzują się dużymi trudnościami technicznymi oraz zagrożeniami obiektywnymi.
Przed Annapurną zespół planuje się aklimatyzować w dolinie Khumbu na siedmiotysięczniku Pumori, położonym tuż przy Evereście.

Kinga była z Peterem na Broad Peak i Nanga Parbat, zaś z Horią na Shisha Pangma. Zespół zna się z poprzednich wypraw.

Dla Piotra było to piąte podejście do Annapurny, ta góra do łatwych niestety nie należy.

Kinga Baranowska – (ur. 1976) – pochodzi z Kaszub, mieszka w Warszawie.

Jedna z najlepszych himalaistek młodego pokolenia. Jest Członkiem Zarządu Klubu Wysokogórskiego Warszawa (od 2008 r.), należy do sportowego teamu Alpinusa (Alpinus Expedition Team). Ma własną firmę trekkingową. W Klubie Wysokogórskim Trójmiasto ukończyła kurs skałkowy i tatrzański.

Oto niektóre z jej licznych osiągnięć:

– Matterhorn (4478 m) – od strony włoskiej oraz wiele szczytów w Alpach, m.in. w masywie Monte Rosa -szczyty w górach Afryki (m.in. Kilimandżaro, Jabel Toubkal).

– Mont Kenia (Batian 5199 m) – ścianą pd.-wsch.

– Chan Tengri (7010 m) – od strony południowej

– Pik Pobiedy (7439 m) – organizator i uczestnik wyprawy

Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;

Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;

Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007;

Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008 – first Polish woman

Manaslu (8156 M) October 5, 2008 – first Polish woman

Kangchenjunga (8586 m) May 18, 2009 – first Polish woman

Annapurna (8091 m) April 27, 2010

Sylwetkę himalaistki przedstawia post :

Kinga Baranowska – famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Piotr Pustelnik

Urodził się w 1951 roku. Z zawodu inżynier chemik. Doktor nauk technicznych. Specjalność: ryzyko przemysłowe i bezpieczeństwo biznesowe. Piotr Pustelnik

Wspina się od 1975 roku. Instruktor alpinizmu. Wspinał się w Tatrach, Alpach, Dolomitach, w Pamirze, Karakorum i Himalajach. Laureat Nagrody „Fair Play” Polskiego Komitetu Olimpijskiego. Honorowy Obywatel Miasta Łodzi.

W latach 1990 – 2008 wszedł na 13 z 14 szczytów ośmiotysięcznych.

Od kilku lat realizuje projekt Trzy Korony, polegający na zdobyciu Korony Ziemi, (najwyższe szczyty wszystkich kontynentów), Koronki Ziemi (drugie co do wysokości szczyty wszystkich kontynentów) oraz Korony Himalajów (czternaście ośmiotysięczników).

Z powyższego projektu w dniu 27 kwietnia 2010 zrealizował zdobycie Korony Himalajów, zdobywając szczyt Annapurny (8091 m).

Sylwetkę himalaisty przedstawia post :

Piotr Pustelnik – famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Droga na szczyt Annapurny:

Annapurna: NF -Route, Fot. Ferran Latorre

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika,
ich relacje z wyprawy – cz7.

Wejście we wtorek 27 kwietnia 2010 na szczyt Annapurny (8091 m)

dało Piotrowi Pustelnikowi Koronę Himalajów.

Kinga Baranowska zdobyła Annapurnę – jej 7 ośmiotysięcznik.

“Piotr ma swoją Koronę, ja jej połowę :) “….

Poniżej pierwsze relacje po udanym ataku na szczyt.

Relacje: Kingi Baranowskiej.

29.04.2010 Annapurna – już w bazie.

Jestem od przedpołudnia w bazie. Zeszłam bardzo wcześnie z jedynki, zabrałam z obozu jeszcze namiot Nicka, który już nie będzie próbował wchodzić na Annapurnę. Po tym jak Nick dostał lodem w głowę, ciągle czuje w niej silny ból. Piotr i Peter schodzą do bazy, niebawem będą. Czekamy jeszcze tylko na Rosjan i będziemy w komplecie. Bardzo milo zachował się Frank z Włoch, który pomógł mi w zejściu do bazy idąc moim wolnym tempem. Dziękuje również Barbarze, naszej dzielnej trekerce, bo opiekowała się nami. Dziś od rana akcja ratunkowa Tola z grupy hiszpańskiej, ale napisze o tym później. To jest bardzo trudne..

27.04.2010 Annapurna – Kinga i Piotr na szczycie !!

Schodzimy powoli ze szczytu. Piotr i ja stanęliśmy, inni też.

Przed nami trudne zejście, myślcie proszę…

Dziś stanęliśmy na szczycie Annapurny. Jesteśmy teraz w obozie IV i pijemy herbatę.

Wchodziliśmy w huraganowym wietrze, jesteśmy przemarznięci. Annapurna pokazała swe oblicze..

Czeka nas jeszcze długa i trudna droga do bazy. Tam tak naprawdę będzie nasz szczyt.

I wtedy dopiero będziemy triumfować: Piotr swoja Koronę, ja jej polowe 🙂

Dziękuję Annapurnie ze pozwoliła nam stanąć na swym wierzchołku, proszę Ja jeszcze o bezpieczne zejście..

* posty o wyprawach Kingi na mojej stronie kliknij : Kinga Baranowska

* Źródła: – www.kingabaranowska.com ; – www.piotrpustelnik.pl

* Related Links :

1. Himalayan Trilogy once again, “Himalayan Triptych Reactivated” : mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition – expedition closed /Version english and polish/

2. Himalayan Trilogy once again, “Himalayan Triptych Reactivated” : mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition – Storm on Annapurna! Burza nad Annapurną! /Version english and polish/

3. Himalayan Trilogy once again, “Himalayan Triptych Reactivated” – atak ma szczyt Annapurny.

4. Himalayan Trilogy once again, “Himalayan Triptych Reactivated” – Ama Dablam

5. “Himalayan Triptych” Reactivated : mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition is on! /Version english and polish/

6. Himalayan Trilogy once again. Tryptyk Reaktywacja. /Version english and polish/

** polska wersja tego posta : – Himalayan Trilogy once again, Himalayan Triptych Reactivated – Tryptyk Reaktywacja cz. II i III.

* Previous story :

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz6.

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz5.

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz4.

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz3.

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz2.

Annapurna Dream 2010: wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika, relacje cz1.

Piotr Pustelnik: Przesuwanie granicy akceptowalnego ryzyka.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Annapurna Expedition 2010: ANNAPURNA DREAM – wyprawa Kingi Baranowskiej i Piotra Pustelnika.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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