Winter Broad Peak: ExWeb’s interview with Artur Hajzer, “you just have to have much bigger balls in winter”

(K2Climb.net) Despite many attempts; none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter. bp-in-winter

On Broad Peak, Italian Simone Moro with Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Quadrat Ali have been thrown back by bad conditions in the past two years.

This past winter, Polish veteran climber Artur Hajzer, fellow Robert Szymczak and Canadian Don Bowie decided to give it a try.

The team is joined

Polish climbers are winter kings in Himalaya. Broad Peak expedition leader Artur has five 8000ers under his belt, three of them climbed via new routes; and the first winter climb on the deadly Annapurna. He was with the Polish Nanga Parbat winter attempt two years ago, which included Szymczak as expedition Doc.

Robert Szymczak and Artur Hajzer summited Dhaulagiri together last year. Shortly after, Robert joined the rescue effort for Spanish Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna’s south face. bp3-new

Among the rescuers was Canadian Don Bowie, originally a team member in the Annapurna climb. Don had left the expedition but returned for the rescue; an attempt that turned out too late. This sad meeting between Don and Robert later led to Bowie’s becoming the third member of the recent BP winter expedition.

Regroups and outcomes

Facing unwanted company on Broad Peak; Simone Moro hooked up with Kazakh Denis Urubko for the last virgin winter 8000er outside Pakistan: Makalu. Against all odds, the two climbers made it (with Simone bagging his second winter virgin 8000er) while over in Pakistan, Artur, Robert and Don fought a prolonged battle against the brutal elements until finally forced to give up.

One triumph and one defeat; theirs were the only serious winter attempts this season. Here goes ExWeb’s debrief with Broad Peak expedition leader Artur Hajzer.

ExWeb: You guys really stuck it out – 75 days in the freezer. Any battle wounds today?

Artur: Robert and I are 100% OK. Don injured his knee and suffered frostbite to his nose, although I’m not sure how he’s doing now – last I saw him was on February 24th. bp-c2-newAmong our Pakistani friends only Amin is 100% OK. Taqi got knee problems and became snowblind. Ali had frostnips while Quadrat got really serious frostbite and was under doctor’s treatment.

ExWeb: The climb looks bad in the post-expedition movie; icy and steep slopes. How big is the snow-texture difference compared to summer season?

Artur: The shape of the entire mountain is completely different compared to summer – it becomes a lot more icy, with many spots of water-ice and less snow. The game becomes very different from a technical standpoint and cannot be compared to summer. It’s hard and dangerous :-).

On the other hand there was plenty of snow in leeward places, such as for instance on the way to lower C1. These spots instead offered an avalanche hazard.

ExWeb: You seemed a bit grumpy on New Year – how come 🙂

Artur: I was just joking. (Ed note: in a New Year’s video Artur is seen crammed between the men in a frigid high camp, telling the camera he just wants to be back in BC).

ExWeb: On Christmas you did a wild variety of prayers (as seen in another movie) and Don read from the Bible, is that even legal in Pakistan 🙂

Artur: Before the expedition every woman asked me for Don’s phone number, but when it became public that he is a man of the Bible, all the girls came running back to me. So I am happy with that film 🙂 . bp-to-c3-new

The situation in Pakistan is difficult – we could feel it – less people on the streets; many of them disappointed or scared even. There were almost daily terrorist incidents and hijackings. It would not surprise me if Karakoram is closed for a climbing in near future. Our Pakistani climbers were unhappy with this situation as well.

ExWeb: What was the whole mountaineering experience like compared to what you had expected and your previous winter climbs?

Artur: It was exactly as we had expected. Nepal is a different story that can’t be compared – it’s warmer with longer and better weather windows.

Compared to Nanga Parbat two years ago, the Baltoro region was cloudier and we had more days of poor visibility. While we could see Nanga’s top all the time back then, this year we only managed to see BP summit during 8-10 days. K2 had only one day of good weather and it was hardly possible to see the summit.

Comparing to my other winter expeditions (3 of them), I have to say that the conditions in BC were completely different – much more difficult.

ExWeb: Judging from the summit push video, the weather truly sucked in camp 3. How cold was it with the wind at that altitude?

Artur: We can only guess as we had no thermometers. The forecast said 30 below plus the wind which we estimated at around 80 km/h, or maybe 90 km/h – but who knows?

What we really felt was that our lives were in danger. We could not take long to set the tent up; we had to get in asap just to survive – it was a serious situation – close to our limits.

It took 15 minutes to place a pole into the tent’s entry channel and another 15 minutes to push it along the channels and secure it into the end. We then quickly put Doctor Robert inside to keep the tent floor on the ground, until Don and I managed to place the other pole in the opposite corner. bp-6000m-new

The tent came into position and shape, but we did not manage to fix all the poles so we just got inside and left it partly undone. That’s how we spent the night; holding the tent in place with our bodies, and our harnesses still clipped to the fixed rope.

On a platform below our Pakistani friends told the same story; and that’s when Quadrat got his frostbite.

I know today that we set our C3 in the wrong location; it should have been higher up where it’s less windy – but we had not managed to move it there earlier. It could also have been placed lower, below the serac, but who knew that the wind would be so strong? At least we know now, should we come back, not to put C3 there again.

ExWeb: What finally made you to call the expedition off?

Artur: It was not me. It was my wife who called this expedition off :-).

ExWeb: How did the logistics work out – you had to wait a while for a resupply?

Artur: Logistic was simply perfect; for the first time in my life nothing was lacking. I can say only good things about ATP Asharaf Aman Agency and his partners Naikman Karim and Essar Karim. ATP sent 80 porters to BC already in September/October (we sent a cargo to Pakistan in August), so we had enough food, fuel, equipment, etc. Nothing was lost and everything was well calculated.

We were well accommodated, and transferred by plane from Islamabad over Skardu and to BC without problems. The chopper was on time. The Pakistani climbers employed by ATP were good as well. Except for a broken gas heater in a mess tent all worked fine. We ordered a resupply just in case – but could survive without it.artur-and-robert-departing-from-broad-peaks-c3-new1

(Ed note: Last year, Simone Moro reported a less smooth situation. Among serious delays with paperwok and transportation, parts of his expedition gear from a previous expedition stored with the outfitter had vanished.)

ExWeb: What were the biggest difficulties of the expedition in general, you figure?

Artur: The wind was our biggest enemy. Technical difficulties were an important factor too.

Wind and low temperatures are not the only difference compared to summer climbs: if the fixed rope brakes, the climber has no chance of survival. Because of the water ice, his body will fall to the base of the mountain. This factor had an important influence on the climbers psyche and their motivation to fight further.

ExWeb: What would you do different next time?

Artur: Next time I will sit by my computer at my office and follow the Russians making K-2 :-).

If I return, I’ll bring more alcohol with me. We only had 2 bottles and I agree with Victor Kozlov (whom Robert met in Islamabad) that it was far from enough. I see now that we were too trained, too athletic, too sterile, and in the end not relaxed enough. In winter in general, you just have to have much bigger balls.

The second possible solution (as in other sports) is to keep a shrink in BC, to help control the motivation level and fear factor :-).artur-hajzer-on-winter-broad-peak-new

ExWeb: Pros and cons with regards to gear?

Artur: The gear was perfect. We had 1500 meters of 4,5 mm Dynema rope and 1000 meters of 6 mm Dynema rope. The 4,5 mm ropes did the fixing process very fast.

We had the foot heat system that worked perfectly. Our tents, Yeti’s Residence, were designed by me for winter expeditions and worked very well, in fact I have to say they are the best in the world (in my opinion). And these gloves are not bad either. Virtually frostbite proof while easy to work with.

ExWeb: How was the food?

Artur: BC food was perfect and came in great variety – chicken with rice one day and rice with chicken the next. You could also get mutton with pasta or pasta with mutton :-).
Food for high camps was good too, but nothing beat a chicken from the Pakistani tent!

ExWeb: Did you feel demoralized/criticized when news on the Makalu success arrived?

Artur: Not at all. Polish climbers (including me) did such winter climbs in Nepal (even in light style) more than 20 years ago so it’s nothing special ;-))).

Seriously speaking: the message had no big influence on us in BC, we managed to stay out of the “competition factor.” Simone and Denis motivated us to continue the winter “mission” in general; Simone is the best ambassador of our past and future winter climbs in the western part of the world. (Ed note: Himalaya winter climbs almost vanished for decades before the Polish issued a “manifesto” for younger generations to take them up again.)

From our own Polish Makalu winter attempt we knew well that Simone’s and Denis’s climb was something great. Yet as Simone knows in turn; it’s no accident that none of the Pakistani 8000 meters peaks have yet been winter climbed. Both Simone’s and our expedition were supported by Karl Gabl’s weather forecasts (we were in touch with Karl almost daily, and almost count him the 8th member of our expedition). Gabl said that the winter average temperature is 10 degree lower in Karakoram than in Nepal Himalayas.hajzers-system-spa

ExWeb: Will you try again?

Artur: I am quite close to the conclusion that it will be impossible to climb 8000 meters peak in Pakistan in the nearest years. So I’m not sure if I’ll try again, but I want to.

ExWeb: Your top three most important advice for other aspiring 8000+ winter wannabes?

Artur: my advice is as follows:
– Unless you are in Denis Urubko’s shape, don’t even try.
– Agree and accept that you could die.
– Train your mind, accept high risk, and climb against weather forecasts.

ExWeb: Any other reflections/main lessons from the climb?

Artur: Weather forecast climbing is something new to me. We have never had them in the 80s.polish-canadian-trio-hajzer-szymczak-bowie-468_new

On Broad Peak, our forecasts would say “next week will be better” and “don’t go now.” The reports showed terrible figures such as 160km/h wind or 40 below temperatures on the summit. It demotivated our whole team. The weather forecast is an element stopping progress in winter climbing – better not to look at it too much ;-).

ExWeb: Summit or not, it clearly was a great adventure. Any regrets at all? And how much weight did you lose?

Artur: I didn’t lose any weight at all. We ate too much.

ExWeb: You’re closing in on 60, what does you comrades at home think about your lifestyle?

Artur: I’m not sure if I understand the question. I told you many times: I am 46 years old. I am not closing in on 60!!!!!!!! (Ed note: just kidding Artur :))

Our Pakistani climbers were extremely fast. Noticing that I could keep up (more or less) they would tell me in camp, “OLD IS GOLD” – f***…it was not really funny 🙂 My comrades are happy because I don’t drink and smoke :-).

ExWeb: Future plans?

ExWeb: Dog walking or the next BP winter expedition.

Artur Hajzer has summited five eightthousanders: 3 of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna.

Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. Robert attempted winter Nanga Parbat in 2006/07, summited Dhaulagiri last spring with Artur and volunteered as member of the international team who tried to rescue Iñaki Ochoa de Olza on Annapurna’s south face.

Don Bowie also played a key role in Iñaki’s rescue attempt on Annapurna. 2008 marked Don’s 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. A Canadian by birth, Don now lives in Telluride Colorado and Bishop, California.

Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /8/ – Week in Review.

The list of Himalaya expeditions, published last Sunday, is still being updated, and last week also offered a sneak peak of the upcoming Karakoram season. The North Pole season has kicked off in brutal temperatures and one aborted expedition already.

All eyes are however on Tibet, where Tuesday (March 10), will mark 50 years of the 1959 Tibetan national uprising against China.

Winter Broad Peak: Getting out is not so easy Defeated by relentless stormy weather, the Broad Peak winter expedition left BC and walked for 11 hours down Baltoro Glacier, passing by Concordia and finally setting camp at Gore 2. Don carried 60-70 lb packs often through waist-deep snow with a knee injury.

Everest no O2 status As in previous years, few climbers plan Everest ascents without supplementary oxygen. At this time, the only confirmed are Peruvian Richard Hidalgo, Pemba Dorje Sherpa, British David Tait (climbing with HiMex), and Australian Andrew Lock, who still hopes to attempt the feat from the north side, after climbing Shisha Pangma.

Everest traverse preview As for Everest traverses, Mexican David Liaño planned (tentative of permits) to climb from the south side, traverse to Tibet, and then climb back across the summit a few days later. David has previously summited Everest twice, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. American Bill Burke, 67, hopes to complete a south-north Everest traverse. He has previously attempted the peak twice. Kazakhstan’s National team is aiming for a world’s first: the Lhotse-Everest traverse, considered as one of the main unsolved climbing problems in the Himalayas.

Kangchenjunga: Zerain’s next goal Remember Spaniard Alberto Zerain, who sped-climbed K2 last year and thus avoided the tragedy that followed hours later? The Basque climber had previously also summited Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II. Next is Kangchenjunga, according to El Correo Digital. The expedition kicks off in April.

Makalu: British Roland Hunter is teaming up with Mick Parker for a non-commercial, private expedition to Makalu. Also American Fabrizio Zangrilli will be leading an expedition to Makalu this spring. Before the “Great Black” the American mountain guide is ice-climbing in Colorado.

Karakoram sneak preview of 2009 expeditions Some interesting summer projects in Pakistan were announced last week. Among them Austrian Gerfried Göschl who will lead a strong group for Nanga Parbat and K2.Gerfried hopes to climb a new route on Nanga’s North-West face together with friends Günther Unterberger, Hans Goger and Louis Rousseau. Also K2 will hopefully get a new line; Gerfried, Louis Rousseau and Jorge Egocheaga will give it a shot if conditions allow.

Ladies turn! The 14, 8000ers status of Nives, Gerlinde and Edurne Edurne Pasaban, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Nives Meroi are all even with 11x8000ers, closing in on the Big 14 list not yet crowned by a woman. With the upcoming climbing season kicking off, ExWeb’s regular contributor Brazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled an update on the women’s’ plans.

Ryan Waters connecting the world American Ryan Waters is running a cross-cultural and educational Everest project. Ambassadors led by Doug Sandok are traveling to Nepal, in order to trek to BC and donate supplies to kids in the country. The project will provide a school in Kathmandu with computers. “This way, these children in Nepal will be able to talk with kids around the world to share information,” Waters told ExplorersWeb.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /7/ – Week in Review.

Two traverses, one sleep-over, close to 40 expeditions on the south side and at least 8 on the north side – the list of 2009 spring Everest expeditions is up! Add to those 26 expeditions so far on the surrounding 8000ers. And that’s not all.  2009explist3

Also this weekend the brand new list of North Pole expeditions went up; the Geographical North Pole, the Magnetic North Pole and other Arctic expeditions such as Lake Baikal, Baffin Island, Greenland and more.

In spite of slow economy and shaky politics – the upcoming spring season is packed as ever. Close to 100 expeditions are up so far; go check all the details and Godspeed explorers!

In other news: winter Broad Peak is over, Everest north side might be restricted again, the buzz about Federico Campanini continues, ExWeb ran an interview with two men trying the first unsupported, unassisted American quest for the North Pole, and a special feature on Pythom.com covered Robert Bigelow’s two private space stations already up and running in Earth orbit.

Winter Broad Peak is over: Don and Artur’s summit push reports, “a sadistic form of the game Twister” The impossible – what nobody can do until somebody does. “Poles have been trying for 20 years; we have been trying for over 60 days,” wrote Artur Hajzer early in the week. The team was resting from a brutal summit push, detailed on the HiMountain and Don Bowie’s websites. A few days later a weather forecast killed further plans altogether and the long expedition is now over.

Everest update: Tibet area closed for climbing until April 1, and beyond? ExplorersWeb received several off-the-record reports (one confirmed by a foreign embassy in Beijing) that the Tibetan side of Everest will be closed for climbing until April 1. The reason for the closure is likely expected protests on May 10, marking the 50th anniversary of the Dalai Lama exile. BBC reported that a Tibetan monk was recently shot after setting fire to himself during a protest. “It is extremely difficult to independently confirm any information coming out of Tibetan areas,” stated the report, “China’s authorities have restricted access to the region.”

On January 16 this year, ExplorersWeb was again affected by cyber attacks. A malicious server software was injected on the news server and this time host Rackspace managed to trace the source. The intrusions were tracked to Chinese IP addresses. The malware was exposed and blocked permanently within hours.

Simone meets Makalu winter pioneer Simone Moro was invited by Paolo Valoti to the legendary Alpine Club of Bergamo. In place was Mario Curnis. In 1980/1981, together with Renato Casarotto, Mario was the first to attempt Makalu in winter. “He opened the ‘winter games’ on Makalu and now I close them, two people from Bergamo, two friends with the same dream…” reflected Simone after the meeting.

Martin and Dodo looking for Annapurna share Martin Minarik and Dodo Kopold are headed to Annapurna South Side. The two are looking for people to share the climbing permit and cost of Base Camp. “We are leaving March 12 but interested parties can join us later,” wrote Martin in his call to ExWeb. “It’s strictly about sharing the cost of base,” he added, “the two of us will be climbing as one rope team.” Email martin@romanticczechtours.com for more info.

Chocolate Sherpa project in aid of Nepal mobile hospital In 2008 Louis-Philippe Lonke trekked solo across the length of Australia’s Simpson Desert. This time he and a team will be trekking from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp to do the highest tasting of chocolate in the world with international mountaineers and Sherpas to raise money for a mobile hospital in Nepal. The team will be distributing 200 kg chocolates amongst Sherpas and porters.

Federico Campanini – a story that should not die Mountain guide Federico Campanini, 31, and one of his clients (Elena Senin, 38) perished on Aconcagua around January 8 after their group summited via the normal route. A video posted showed Federico still alive, surrounded by a group of rescuers/guides. The video has stirred heated feelings in the community. “At least climbers should be made aware of the total carelessness of the SAR on Aconcagua,” wrote one climber. “You covered the K2 events very well last year, and other similar in the past, I really think that you cannot bypass this story.”

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

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HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 21.

hajzer HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Himalaya wrap-up: over on Broad Peak.

2009, February 25

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) It’s over on Broad Peak – don’t miss out on the big push debrief posted earlier this week.   bp-new

Broad Peak – it’s over

Expedition leader Artur Hajzer writes today on the HiMountain website that forecasts show no chance of a window before March 21, the end of Calendar winter. With prospects of constant 100 km per hour wind on summit level, the expedition decided to abort. Artur is in Skardu organizing porters and BC is packed up.

“Climbers have been trying this at least for 20 years, will anyone succeed in the future?” asks expedition leader Artur Hajzer.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.21.

Odwrót wyprawy na Broad Peak.

Pogoda nie daje szans na atak szczytowy w zimie kalendarzowej i wyprawa kończy działalność.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Pogoda nie daje szans na atak szczytowy. 25.02.2009

Według prognoz Instytutu Meteo, do 21 marca 2009 roku, czyli do końca zimy, nie będzie pogody pozwalającej na atakowanie szczytu. Będzie wiał ciągle silny wiatr osiągający w partiach szczytowych prędkość do 100 km/godz. W tej sytuacji, nie mając wyboru, wyprawa postanowiła zakończyć oblężenie góry. Przystąpiono do likwidacji obozów i bazy.

Wszystkie ośmiotysięczniki w Karakorum, oraz jedyny leżący również w Pakistanie himalajski szczyt Nanga Parbat, pozostają nadal zimą niezdobyte! Przez 20 lat nie udało się, czy uda się w przyszłości?

* źródła :   –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

gieldaturystyki.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 20.

hajzer HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Don and Artur’s summit push reports, “a sadistic form of the game Twister”.

2009, February 23

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) The impossible – what nobody can do until somebody does.  bp-to-c2-in-a-gale-new

“Are the Karakoram 8000ers’ summits really unreachable during winter?,” Artur Hajzer wonders. “Poles have been trying for 20 years, we have been trying for over 60 days. Will we have another try? Maybe. However, a 4-day weather window is a must.”

Imagine yourself camping out for over two months on the top of Mount Whitney (4421 m/14,505 ft) or Mont Blanc (4,810 m) – in winter. In Broad Peak BC (+5000 m) climbers are using the slow, cold and neverending days to post reports on their recent summit push.

To get the proper idea – imagine winter climbing to the top of Mount McKinley (6,193 m/20,320 ft) followed by a restless night at the top of Aconcagua (6,962 metres/22,841 ft) – and you’re still not there! Here goes:

Friday 13th: Hugging rocks

“The ascent to Camp 2 – on Friday the 13th, mind you – should have been the first indicator,” Don Bowie recalled.   bp-artur-new“Winds at the elevation of ‘Summer’ Camp 2 forced Qadrat, Ali, Amin, and I to fall prostrate every few minutes, hugging every available rock to avoid being flown off.”

“The hardest was to come at the end though,” Artur reported. “Our tents weren’t awaiting us in Camp II. Even the one we had previously rolled over and attached to the ground with rocks was torn and with a broken mast. The second tent had all poles broken and many holes.”

Camp 2: creative engineering

“It took over 2 hours of creative engineering, various rigging, and forced ingenuity to make one of the two tents inhabitable, using spare parts from the unsalvageable tent, and taking adequate breaks to pull our hands inside our mitts to save our fingers,” Don added.

The six men were forced to spend a sleepless night crammed in the two-person tent. “A nightmare,” Artur put down.  bp-bc-new

“A sadistic form of the game Twister,” Don chimed in, “played inside a meat locker, inside a wind tunnel, in the middle of O’Hare airport runway, in record setting winter.”

Valentine’s day: no kisses, Amin brings it all out

“On Feb 14, Saturday, horrible weather prevented us from heading up to C3,” Artur stated. “We were also wasted, so we waited out that day.”

“Meanwhile, Amin began an impressive display of super-strength: he would descend to base camp and return to Camp 3 with another tent the following day – a vertical gain of over 2000 meters,” Don noted.

”A forecast reported by midnight gave us a weak chance on the wind blowing at 50 km per hour on Feb 17th,” said Artur. “We decided to stick to that little hope and to reach Camp III (7000m).”

Feb 15th: bad dreams above the abyss

“On Sunday we set off for C3 (7000m),” Artur recalled. “At the beginning it was quite easy: The sky was clear blue and the wind was blowing gently – but hell unfolded as we reached the place were we had our gear cached and the tent-platforms to pitch C3.”

“As I crested the Camp 3 ridge, I was greeted by even higher winds and blowing snow,” Don reported. “’It’s going to be a little tough to set up the tent in this,’ I thought to myself (according to Artur, the gale was blowing at 90km/h). But we managed – barely.”

“One of us was inside the tent playing anchor, to avoid blowing the tent out,” Artur explained. “Similar difficulties happened to Pakistanis on lower platform. Only by dusk we could rest, properly-set tents; it was when we were informed of Quadrat Ali’s frostbites.”

“I put my boots on and climbed out of the crammed tent, then down the rock slabs in the dark to the other tent,” Bowie recounted. “After a brief conversation and inspecting Qadrat’s fingers, I returned to our tent to get the emergency oxygen bottle we had stashed in Camp 3 a few weeks prior, and filled a bag of snow for the Pakistanis to melt for drinks. (Oxygen therapy immediately after frostbite limits some tissue damage.) Back in our tent, the night was cramped, cold, and windy.”

“25% of our tent was hanging above the abyss and the whole night we had a feeling that the our tent was sliding down,” Artur said. “Just in case, we were attached to a fixing-rope. We had no doubts that the summit push was over.”

Feb 16th: the nylon burrito

“I awoke around 8am to the tent being absolutely battered by gusts of wind,” Don went on. “’If this gets any stronger, we’re gonna get blown off the mountain,’ I thought, and immediately put my boots on and started packing my things. “ According to Don, their tent was almost blown off as he exited, with Robert and Artur still inside.

“We finally flipped the tent over and wrapped the entire thing into a sorta nylon burrito, tied with rope as tight as we could get it,” Don recalled.

“After it was secure (mostly), we threw the depot gear bag on top and clipped it to the rope. It was at this time that I realized my climbing harness was still inside the burrito. It was far too cold and things were getting desperate, making the option of untying the whole ordeal and searching for it out of the question.”

Descent by hand-wrap-rappel, “I didn’t say a prayer first”

“Instead, I unclipped a short piece of webbing from my pack and clipped it around my waist with a carabineer borrowed from Artur. I would have to do the ‘hand-wrap-rappel’ descent all the way to the glacier. I put on my pack, climbed to the edge of the ridge, wrapped my right hand around the 4mm rope, and stepped over the ridge. I didn’t say a prayer first. I said a prayer the whole way down.”

“After descending all day long, we finally reached BC wasted, beaten-up, physically and mentally exhausted,” Artur closed the debrief. “One Pakistani had 2nd degree frostbites. Continuing foul weather confirmed that to retreat had been the adequate decision to make.”

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.20.

Ostro złoiło nam skórę – Don Bowie o 13 i 14 lutego.

Relacja : Don Bowie
Ostro złoiło nam skórę – Don Bowie o 13 i 14 lutego.  20.02.2009

Nie ma co ściemniać.  Nie ma co unikać tematu : warunki na Broad Peak przekraczają możliwości każdego człowieka. Twierdzenie inaczej, to przejaw arogancji, więc nie waham się twierdzić, że ponieśliśmy  (choćby chwilową) porażkę. Silne wiatry – z łatwością przekraczające 100 km na godzinę – i temperatury poniżej -35 C, niekończące się płyty monotonnego kuloodpornego lodu, podmuch, który zmiótł nasz namiot w Obozie III (wysokość około 7000 m), to wszystko pokazuje, że góra ma tyle mozliwości by nas pokonać i póki co nie pozwala  wpuszczać nas wyżej niż 7000 m.

Moim zdaniem, to ostatnie podejście było raczej próbą stawienia czoła z najgorszym z czym czekała na nas góra, z nadzieją, że potraktuje nas uprzejmie, że da nam fory. Moją sugestią było, abyśmy tego nie robili, takie jest też moje aktualne silne przekonanie. Czuję się jak dzieciak, ostrzegany aby nie wkładać rąk do piekarnika, z małym oparzeniem na palcu jako przypomnieniem. Góra sobie mnie odpuściła z pomniejszymi “powierzchownymi odmrożeniami” na nosie i policzkach, oraz z postępującym zanikiem czucia w palcach rąk i nóg. Quadrat’a to też wiele nie kosztowało, z odmrożeniami 5-ciu palców – jeden palec szczególnie zraniony – aczkolwiek nikt nie sądzi, że aż tak ucierpiał żeby coś musieć stracić, więc jemu się tak czy inaczej poszczęściło.

Wejście do Obozu II – w piątek trzynastego dla przypomnienia – powinno być pierwszym wskaźnikiem. Wiatry na wysokości letniego Obózu II zmusiły Quadrta Ali, Amina i mnie do stałego przylegania do podłoża, co kilka minut chwytając się każdego możliwego fragmentu skały, by uniknąć zwiania. Udało mi się filmować tylko dwa razy: za pierwszym razem zza skały tylko na kilka sekund nim palce mi zamarzną, za drugim razem na wysokości letniego Obozu II w pełnym wietrze na wysokości około 6200 m. Na innym klipie widać biały zamarznięty pasek na moim nosie. Na tej wysokości nasze gogle były kompletnie zalodzone i bezużyteczne.

Kiedy około 15:30 czworo z nas ostatecznie dotarło do zimowego Obozu II, mieliśmy do czynienia z huraganem w pełnej sile. Ku naszemu zdziwieniu oba namioty były zmasakrowane przez wiatr i nie było miejsca w którym mogliśmy się schronić. W tak silnym wietrze z trudem przychodziło oddychać; by się komunikować musieliśmy sobie krzyczeć do uszu. Dwie godziny kreatywnego konstruowania, różnorodnego olinowania oraz wymuszonej pomysłowości zajęło nam zrobienie jednego namiotu z dwóch niezdolnych do zamieszkania. Użyliśmy pozostałych części z namiotu  niemożliwego do odratowania, pamiętając o przerwach na chowanie dłoni w łapawicach by chronić nasze palce. Około 18:15, czworo z nas ostatecznie wbiło się do namiotu. Próbowaliśmy wzajemnie się ogrzewać i zachęcać, śmiejąc się nad okropnymi warunkami na zewnątrz.

Chwilę przed 19:00 przybył Artur z podążającym za nim Robertem. W namiocie uszytym dla trójki osób ścieśnionych było nas sześcioro – dość ciasne kwatery, ale bliski kontakt ciał dawał jakieś szczątkowe ciepło. Odpaliłem kuchenkę i zacząłem serwować herbatę, podczas kiedy inni topili lód na zupy i inne napoje. Noc była –delikatnie mówiąc–  raczej nieniekomfortowa. Przez noc, tkwiliśmy w jednej pozycji, bez możliwości poruszenia się,, uwięzieni w plątaninie kolan, łokci i zamarzniętego nylonu – sadystyczna zabawa. Robert i ja leżeliśmy po prawej stronie namiotu, krystaliczne odłamki lodu przedzierające się przez zamek wejścia namiotu, zamieniały lewą stronę mojego ubrania w zmrożony pudrowany pączek. Trzeba powiedzieć, że noc była dla każdego męczarnią. Jedynym pocieszeniem było to, że z powodu kolana, Taqui zszedł do Obozu I, więc jedna sardynka wypadła z kompletu.

W sobotę, 14 lutego, w ciągu dnia po raz pierwszy wiatr trochę zmniejszył  siłę. Ale popołudniem znowu przybrał na sile. Mimo, iż wiatr był trochę słabszy niż dnia poprzedniego, pomysł wspinania się do Obozu III był co najmniej nieodpowiedni, więc przeczekaliśmy. Z rana, w rozmowie Artura i Aliego, pojawił się pomysł aby rozstawić mały namiot Vaude, dając tym samym trochę przestrzeni na oddech. Ostatecznie zmniejszyło to naszą liczbę o jedną osobę. W międzyczasie Amin, wykazał się niesamowitą determinacją i super siłą: zszedł do Bazy i wrócił do Obozu II z namiotem –  w pionie pokonał jakieś 2000 m.

Dla przypomnienie, wcześniej publikowany  film – walka z huraganem :

* źródła :   –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

gieldaturystyki.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 19.

hajzer HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Himalaya wrap-up: Broad Peak’s reflections.

2009, February 20

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Don Bowie and his mates on Broad Peak lick their wounds in BC and decide on their next move.

Winter Broad Peak: “We got our butts kicked!”

“There’s no other way to say it, so I won’t hesitate to admit our (at least momentary) defeat, “ Don Bowie reported. “High winds – at times easily more than 100km/h – and temperatures below minus -35C, added to endless sheets of continuous, monotonous, bullet-proof ice, were the tools of our challenger, and the challenger outmatched us – the final blow being the collapse of our tent at Camp 3.”

“Is my firm conviction that we not try this again,” Don added. ” I feel like a child, warned not to touch the oven, left with a little sting to remind us why: The mountain let me off easy, with some minor “frostnip” on my nose and cheek, in addition to an increasing numbness already resident on all my fingertips and toes. Quadrat didn’t fare so well, with frostbite to 5 fingers, one in particular is a little serious – but, none is serious enough that he will lose anything, so he is fortunate as well. Robert suffered a small patch of frostnip on his cheek. The rest managed to escape with little more than a bitter scolding.”

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.19.

Co się zdarzyło między 13 a 16 lutego – uzupełnienie opisu zdarzeń.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Co się zdarzyło między 13 a 16 lutego – uzupełnienie opisu zdarzeń. 19.02.2009

Dzisiaj tj. 19 lutego otrzymaliśmy od Artura Hajzera  telefoniczny – z powodu awarii laptopa-  opis ataku szczytowego, opis zdarzeń,  które miały miejsce między 13 a 16 lutego. Jest to uzupełnienie  zamieszczonych już relacji z tamtych dni.   A było  tak :

Dość mieliśmy „siedzenia w bazie”, wiedzieliśmy już, że „za darmo”, przechytrzając zimę, tej góry raczej się nie zdobędzie. I choć prognoza na dni 13-15 luty nienajlepsza (wiatr 60-90 km/h, mgła, opady śniegu) to zakładamy, że po linach do 3 – go obozu dojdziemy. Na dni 16-17 luty, mieliśmy mglistą zapowiedź dobrej pogody, o wietrze nie silniejszym niż 50 km/h.

13 luty 2009, piątek. Ruszyliśmy w górę. Do obozu II szliśmy aż 11 godzin. Wiało. Na formacjach wypukłych zmuszeni byliśmy do przyjęcia pozycji „na kolanach”. Końcówka była najgorsza. Przychodziło  nam w podmuchach polegiwać. Namioty w dwójce nie czekały na nas niestety. Jeden został potargany choć był zrolowany i przyciśnięty kamieniami – niestety niestarannie, bo wypadł z niego maszt. Drugi miał połamane maszty i dziury. Z tych dwóch rzęchów zrobiliśmy jako-taki jeden, w miarę dobry. Był to namiot 2-osoowy. Musieliśmy się zmieścić w nim w sześciu. Co za rzeźnia! Koszmar.

14 luty 2009, sobota. Rano pogoda potworna, nie puszczała do góry. Ale też nie mieliśmy za bardzo siły. Przeczekaliśmy ten dzień.

O północy nasz 8-my uczestnik wyprawy, przebywający w Insbrucku meteorolog Karl Gabel, telefonicznie dał nam małą szansą, że 17 lutego wiatr osłabnie i będzie wiał na szczycie z prędkością 50 km/h. Postanowiliśmy wykorzystać ten niewielki cień nadziei i podejść wyżej do obozu III (7000m)

15 luty 2009,niedziela. Wyruszyliśmy do obozu III (7000m). Początkowo szło dobrze. Było błękitne niebo a podmuchy wiatru niezbyt dokuczliwe. Po wyjściu na grzędę gdzie był depozyt i platformy naszego obozu 3 zaczęło się prawdziwe piekło. Wiatr wiejący 90 km/h nie pozwalał nam rozbić namiotów. W takich warunkach, w łapawicach, klęcząc, trafienie masztem do namiotowego tunelu zajmuje więcej niż 15 minut. Jeden z nas był w płachcie namiotu jako kotwica, żeby go nie porwało. Podobne trudności na niższej platformie mieli  Pakistanczycy. Dopiero o zmierzchu byliśmy w środku rozstawionych namiotów. Wtedy dowiedzieliśmy się o odmrożeniach Aliego. 25% naszego namiotu zwisało nad czeluścią a namiot przez całą noc zdawał się obsuwać. Na wszelki wypadek przypięci byliśmy do liny poręczowej. Nie mieliśmy już złudzeń, że jest po ataku szczytowym.

16 luty 2009, poniedziałek. Zła pogoda. Schodzimy cały dzień.. Do bazy przychodzimy wyczerpani, poobijani, wykończeni psychicznie i fizycznie. Jeden Pakistanczyk wrócił z odmrożeniami rąk  2-go stopnia. Zła pogoda się utrzymuje. Utwierdza nas, że słusznie zrobiliśmy schodząc do bazy.

Czyżby nie dało się w ogóle zdobyć ośmiotysięcznika zimą w Karakorum??? Polacy próbują już 20 lat, a my ponad 60 dni. Czy spróbujemy jeszcze raz ? Nie wykluczone, ale musi być 4 dniowe bezpieczne okno dobrej pogody.

* źródła :   –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

gieldaturystyki.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /6/ – Week in Review.

Last week was dominated by a disturbing video showing a climber’s final moments below the summit of Aconcagua. The clip, posted on youtube by the victim’s father, outraged general public in Argentina as well as experienced mountaineers.

In other news; climbers were brutally sent down from Broad Peak’s frigid slopes, but the expedition is still on.

Winter Broad Peak High winds thwarted the team’s summit attempt on Broad Peak. The climbers retreated from C3 after three sleepless nights and four days of struggle in very hard conditions. Pakistani climber Quadrat Ali suffered frostbite and is headed home. Treated in situ by climbing doc Robert Szymczak, Ali will get to keep all his fingers. The remaining climbers, on the mountain for 2 months already, are still sticking it out.

Aconcagua: last moments on YouTube Mountain guide Federico Campanini, 31, and one of his clientsfred-new (Elena Senin, 38) perished on Aconcagua around January 8 after their group summited via the normal route. On descent, the mountaineers reportedly lost their way in a sudden storm and mistakenly descended the technical Polish route. Federico and Elena reportedly fell to their deaths, while the rest of the team were airlifted out. Last week, a video posted on YouTube by Campanini’s father showed Federico still alive at about 6500 meters/21,000 FT, surrounded by a group of rescuers/guides; some dragging him in a rope, others possibly cursing at him (translations vary) and one asking for permission over radio to leave the crawling climber behind, claiming that he has “no more than 40 minutes to live.”

Makalu: home sweet home Simone Moro arrived back home in Italy on Wednesday. “My family was there waiting for me and organized a small party,” the climber reported. “Denis has remained in Kathmandu waiting for Jagat, Mingma and all the expedition’s equipment. He will let everything to dry up, make an inventory and repair whatever may be damaged. Thank you Denis for your help.”

Andrew Lock’s 14x8000ers grand final: Shisha Pangma + NoO2 Everest Andrew Lock hopes to become the first Australian to complete the 14x8000ers list, by summiting the last peak he has left to climb: Shisha Pangma. After climbing Shisha, he still hopes to attempt a no-O2 ascent on Everest’s north side on his own. “Although he’s summited Everest twice before, both ascents were done with supplementary oxygen, so he’d like to finish off the project with an oxygenless ascent of the big E,” his home team stated.

Spring 2009: Abramov’s team back to Everest – Tibet side Alex Abramov and his “7 Summits-Club” are also heading back to Everest’s Tibetan side. The expedition will include 16 members, 17 Sherpas, 5 guides and a Doctor. Check in next week for the ExWeb list of expeditions and some news on the Chinese side Himalaya situation.

Video clip series focusing on the polar regions Producer Armand Dijcks and polar adventurer Philip de Roo collaborated in the production of a video clips series covering, among other experiences, “the zen of skiing on Greenland’s icecap, the fear felt during a polar storm, and the thrill of dog sledding.” Check Icescapes.tv.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
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** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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