Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /29/ – Week in Review.

Who’d have thought it? The first Everest fall summits in four years “It’s a good thing my mom isn’t here watching,” quipped the polar skier from C4 on Everest South Col. But October 15 at 12:30PM Eric Larsen plus Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years. The Terramar sponsored expedition concluded Larsen’s quest to reach the “Three Poles” in record time.

Serial Everest summiteer lost on Baruntse The loss of Chhewang Nima Sherpa put a sad end to the climbing autumn season, wrapped up in a special report by Ang Tshering Sherpa. 19x Everest summiter Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche while fixing ropes on Baruntse upper sections.

Marty Schmidt’s “shortest Himalaya expedition ever” Marty cut his solo 4-day Lhotse attempt short in order to guide a client on Ama Dablam.

Jordises out of Lhotse Spanish “K2 pirates” Corominas and Tosas finally threw in the towel on Lhotse, due to dangerous conditions.

Shisha Pangma South Koreans Chang-Ho Kim, 41, and Sung-Ho Suh summited Shisha Pangma at 2:15PM on October 14, after climbing the British route on the peak’s south side. Chang-Ho Kim claims Shisha as his twelfth 8000er without supplementary O2; Sung-Ho Kim his tenth.

Cho Oyu summit mysteries German Ralf Arnold told ExplorersWeb he was the first Cho Oyu summiteer of the season, topping out October 1, 2010 at 10:30AM in a 15 hours roundtrip from C2. An October 7 Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean Adrian Sanchez was questioned after the alleged summit picture turned out shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez.

Dhaulagiri Search parties found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche, buried in snow at about 5,000 meters on Dhaula.

Manaslu Together with a Japanese climber and his two Sherpas, Mexican couple Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reached Manaslu summit sans O2 at 2:40PM, local time on October 1, some time after the HiMex and Carlos Pauner’s groups. “We were the last to summit that day,” Badia debriefed back in Kathmandu.

Lukla plane crash No one was hurt in the plane crash at Lukla airport. “Apparently, his brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose,” SummitClimb reported.

Blind Everest summiteer Erik Weihenmayer led a team of war-battered soldiers to the top of the 20,075-foot Lobuche on October 13.

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) was topped out on October 8 by Dutch Dick Valk, Kaji Sherpa and expedition leader Paul Boslooper.

Mustang 6000ers ski “When I broke my ankle on May 1 last spring, I was at 17,600 feet on Baruntse,” Ben Clark reminded ExplorersWeb. Baruntse will lay on the shelf until Spring 2012; right now Ben and mates are back in Nepal to climb and ski Saribung (6000m) in Mustang province.

Garhwal Himalaya: Sathopanth casualties In a debrief from Satopanth (7,075m), Arun Mahajal reported to ExplorersWeb unseasonably bad weather in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. There was loss of life in the Himalayas as well as in the lowlands due to landslides and flooding. A small group of trekkers from Calcutta were trapped in a storm, a female member in a six-person Austrian team fell down a ravine during her Sathopanth ascent.

Tengkang Poche — have you seen Alexey and Svetlana? Russian climbers Alexey Gorbatenkov and Svetlana Gutsalo planned to climb Tengkang Poche (6,500m) by the end of September. Scheduled to fly home from KTM on October 7 there has been no word since. Anyone having met them on the mountain, in Thame, Namche or anywhere in the Khumbu valley please contact ExplorersWeb and/or Lena at RussianClimb.com. The peak is not far from Thame village, in the Khumbu region.

Piolet d’Or Asia Park Young-Seok, Um Hong-Gil and Kim Chang-Ho were not there; Miss Oh Eun-Sun sat away from her sponsors. Nevertheless, a jury in Korea headed by Kazakh Denis Urubko selected Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama the winners of the fifth “Les Piolets d’Or Asia” for their new route on Canada’s Mt. Logan (5,900m). The first Asia Achievement Award went to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa while Ja-In Kim received the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ and the ‘Silver Shoes’ went to Hee-yong Park in the rock-climbing category.

Pakistan: 2011 climbing fees, Alpine Club elections Veteran mountaineer Lt. Col. Manzoor Hussain (retired), has been unanimously elected as President of the ACP for the next three-year term during the Club’s Annual General Meeting held at Pakistan Sports Complex on October 17, 2010. Climbing fees for 2011 are out — small increase has been unavoidable.

Erden Eruc Around-n-Over 100+ days on the Indian Ocean For piracy protection, lonely rower Erden Eruc is currently escorted by a Turkisk naval ship towards mainland Africa. As part of his true world circumnavigation, Eruc is well on his way to become the first rower to cross the Indian ocean mainland to mainland.

ExWeb’s interview with Ousland A few hundred people greeted Ousland and Thorleifsson as they sailed in to the Fram Museum in Oslo. Explorersweb Jon Amtrup caught up with Ousland for an interview about the recent North Pole circle; circumnavigating the North Pole in one season.

ExWeb interview with Meagan McGrath Meagan spoke to ExWeb about the Antarctic crevasse fall and her recent experience on K2.

ExWeb interview with Sean Burch “Tougher than any 8000 peak I have done!” Sean told ExWeb after recently crossing Nepal in a record 49 days, 19 days faster than the previous record set by Rosie Swale Pope 2003.

ExWeb interview with Paul Landry Antarctica season kicking off, seasoned polar guide Paul Landry told ExplorersWeb about the challenges of the different ski/kite routes he has done on Antarctica, why teams would choose one route above the other, what his favorite route is and about future plans.

ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael American Todd Carmichael attempted a 400 mile (643.7 km) trek in 18.5 days through Death Valley in the USA; hauling 450 pounds of water (33 gallons / 125 liters), food and gear. It ended in equipment failure far too early for Todd, but he learnt some very important lessons for his next attempt. “There is only one way to know if something is possible – and that is to try it,” he told ExWeb.

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Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

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Himalaya Fall 2010: Season Finally Ends On Lhotse.

Author : Kraig Becker.

The Fall Himalayan season has been slowly crawling towards the finish line for a few weeks now. While most of the mountains have been deserted for awhile, there have been a few lingering climbers hoping beyond hope that they would get an opportunity to summit. It seems for two of them, that hope has now been dashed.

ExWeb is reporting that the two Jordis, Corominas and Tosas, have now called it quits on Lhotse. The pair of Spaniards were attempting to climb along the South Face, but have been stymied by the conditions there, which included poor weather and lots of snow. While they waited, the two men had a go at the Lhotse Shar, and have made two separate bids up the face. But the conditions have been slow to improve and now high winds near the summit it have made any further attempts to climb the mountain nearly impossible. Because of these ongoing issues, they’ve elected to go home for the year.

Meanwhile, Marty Schmidt, who had been attempting a solo, alpine style attempt on Lhotse, gave up his attempt on that mountain in order to guide a client up Ama Dablam. Turns out that expedition isn’t happening either, as when Marty joined his companion in the Khumbu Valley, the client revealed that he wasn’t ready to make the climb and had decided to go home instead. With no interest in climbing Ama Dablam himself, Marty is now heading home as well.

Finally, ExWeb is also reporting that Alpine Ascents, one of the companies that Chhewang Nima Sherpa worked with while guiding in the Himalaya, has set up a checking account to accept donations to help support his family, for which is was the sole provider. The 19-time Everest summitteer went missing last weekend when an avalanche swept him off of Baruntse. Search and rescue operations were ceased after it was determiend that no one could have survived the accident. To make a donation to the fund, ExWeb says checks can be made payable to: “FBO Chhewang Nima Sherpa” and can be mailed to: Alpine Ascents International at 109 West Mercer St. Seattle, WA 98119. Contact AA for further details.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

– Everest Climbing Legend Missing On Baruntse.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: More From Lhotse.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Lhotse Update!

– Everest 2011 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Shisha Pangma and Manaslu summit reports.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest fall season summits and Cho Oyu too.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Summits Everest, Completes Save The Poles Expedition!

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen In Camp 3, High Winds Predicted For Summit Day.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen Begins Summit Push On Everest.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu update, Pauner about Manaslu summit, Everest C4, Lama Geshe recovering.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

– Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

– ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

* Related Links :

– Everest Summit Story – Part 1.

– Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

– Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

– Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

Himalaya Fall 2010: More From Lhotse.

Author : Kraig Becker.

Update: ExWeb is now reporting that Marty has abandoned his attempt on Lhotse due to high winds and dangerous conditions. He’ll now descend back to BC and proceed to Ama Dablam, where he’ll guide a client up the mountain.

We have a bit more information on what’s happening on Lhotse at the moment as three climbers make very different attempts on the mountain amidst bad weather conditions. It seems things are deteriorating quickly in the Himalaya, and these men want to take advantage of one last window to see if they can summit.

According to ExWeb’s latest reports on the mountain, Marty Schmidt has proceed up to the Western Cwm where he evaluating the conditions on the Lhotse face today. He says that he has three different weather reports, each indicating that wind and snow are in the forecast, it’s just a matter of when they’ll arrive. Because of those reports, he was hoping to evaluate his position this morning (local time) and decide if he could have a go at the summit along the normal route. He’s been making a solo, alpine style ascent, which has put him into a good position to summit provided the conditions are right.

Meanwhile, the Spaniards, Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tosas, who are climbing along the South Face of Lhotse, are reportedly headed up the mountain today as well. They’re also hoping to take advantage of the proposed weather window, although their home team reports that there is a lot of snow high on the mountain which may make it impossible to reach the summit along their proposed route.

Stay tuned for updates. It seems that we’ll know if these bold climbers have a chance to summit in the next day or two.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Lhotse Update!

– Everest 2011 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Shisha Pangma and Manaslu summit reports.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest fall season summits and Cho Oyu too.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Summits Everest, Completes Save The Poles Expedition!

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen In Camp 3, High Winds Predicted For Summit Day.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen Begins Summit Push On Everest.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu update, Pauner about Manaslu summit, Everest C4, Lama Geshe recovering.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

– Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

– ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

* Related Links :

– Everest Summit Story – Part 1.

– Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

– Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

– Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

Himalaya Fall 2010: Lhotse Update!

Author : Kraig Becker.

While most of the climbers have now packed it in for the season, and the mountains are starting to fall silent until the spring, Lhotse sill has a few climbers looking to top out from both sides of the mountain. ExWeb posted an update on their progress yesterday.

First up is Marty Schmidt who is climbing the 8,516m (27,940 ft) mountain in solo and alpine fashion along the normal route. As of Tuesday, he was at the 6000m (19,685 ft) mark and was looking to head up to the Lhotse wall yesterday. If the weather holds and the conditions around the summit are good, he hoped to complete the climb today. There has been no update on his progress yet, but it’s likely that he made the final push this morning and is now headed back down the mountain. ExWeb says he’ll move over to Ama Dablam next, where he’ll guide a client.

The other team on Lhotse consists of Jordi Tosas and Jordi Corominas, who are working the peak along the South Face. On Monday, they were in BC and evaluating the conditions, which seemed to be improving, and on Tuesday they moved further up the face. If conditions continue to get better, they are expected to make an attempt on the summit in the next few days. They have already acclimatized up to 6500m (21,325 ft) and are now ready for the final push.

These climbers seem to be the last on the big peaks in the Himalaya this season, although there are still plenty of climbs that are taking place on some of the “lesser” peaks in the region. Soon, the weather will change once again, and they’ll all be shut down save for a few bold winter expeditions. Spring seems like a long way off at the moment, but the season will be here before we know it.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

– Everest 2011 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Shisha Pangma and Manaslu summit reports.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest fall season summits and Cho Oyu too.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Summits Everest, Completes Save The Poles Expedition!

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen In Camp 3, High Winds Predicted For Summit Day.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen Begins Summit Push On Everest.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu update, Pauner about Manaslu summit, Everest C4, Lama Geshe recovering.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

– Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

– Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

– Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

– ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

– Youngest On Everest Update: China Sets Age Limit On Everest.

– Youngest On Everest Update: Nepal Grants Sherpa Permission.

– Youngest On Everest: Worst Fears Realized?

– Everest 2010: Busy Weekend At The Summit.

– Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

– Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

– Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

– Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

– Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

– Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

– Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

– Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

– Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

– Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

– Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

* Related Links :

– Everest Summit Story – Part 1.

– Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

– Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

– Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com