Memoriał im. Piotra Morawskiego 2011.

Olga Morawska wraz z Alpinus Expedition Team zapraszają do udziału w Memoriale im. Piotra Morawskiego „Miej odwagę!”. Celem Memoriału jest nagrodzenie najbardziej interesujących projektów podróżniczych, poznawczych, wspinaczkowych, narciarskich lub żeglarskich. morawski

Wyprawy można zgłaszać od 24 listopada br. w serwisie www.alpinus-miejodwage.pl.

Ogłoszenie zwycięzcy 1. edycji Memoriału odbędzie się w marcu 2011 r. podczas Festiwalu Podróżników Kolosy w Gdyni.

Po raz pierwszy zasady Memoriału im. Piotra Morawskiego zostały przedstawione przez Olgę Morawską, żonę Piotra, w marcu 2010 r. podczas festiwalu Kolosy 2009.

— Memoriał im. Piotra Morawskiego powstał, ponieważ wierzymy, że energia Piotra, jego siła i odwaga są warte ocalenia. Piotr był himalaistą i wybitnym wspinaczem. Miał odwagę, aby realizować marzenia, a swoją pasją zarażał innych. Idee, które były dla Piotrka ważne, przerodziły się w Memoriał Jego imienia, który promuje odwagę, siłę i energię, a także bezpieczeństwo. Memoriałowi nadaliśmy nazwę „Miej odwagę!”, ponieważ odwaga i pomysł na życie jest tym, czego będziemy poszukiwać u uczestników konkursu — mówi Olga Morawska, pomysłodawczyni projektu.

— Piotrek Morawski był wybitnym członkiem Alpinus Expedition Team. Znając jego plany, a także jego niezwykłe umiłowanie życia z pasją, podjęliśmy decyzję o zrealizowaniu Memoriału im. Piotra Morawskiego „Miej odwagę!” Główna nagroda Memoriału daje szansę podróżnikom, wspinaczom czy żeglarzom na zrealizowanie wymarzonej wyprawy. Dzięki Memoriałowi chcemy zaprosić wszystkich odważnych ludzi do naszego zespołu podróżników i zdobywców Alpinus Expedition Team. Wierzymy, że Memoriał Piotra zyska wielu zwolenników i fanów, co pomoże nam przekazywać jego pasję i energię dalej — dodaje Zenon Raszyk, przedstawiciel marki Alpinus.

Zasady Memoriału

Wyprawy można zgłaszać w 5 kategoriach, od 24 listopada 2010 r. do 31 stycznia 2011 r., na stronie http://www.alpinus-miejodwage.pl.

Kategorie:

1. Ziemia — wyprawy w góry i z góry, po płaskim, a także te w głąb Ziemi.

2. Powietrze — projekty, których głównym celem są loty, przeloty, odloty i skoki.

3. Woda — wyprawy po wodzie i w głąb wody.

4. Ogień — wyprawy i projekty, w których najważniejsze są kipiące emocje, adrenalina na najwyższych obrotach i dużo czadu!

5. Eter — kosmicznie odjechane projekty, które wykraczają poza ramy podstawowych żywiołów.

Przy ocenie zgłoszonych wypraw będzie brany pod uwagę oryginalny, ale jednocześnie przemyślany i możliwy do zrealizowania pomysł. Wszystkie kategorie traktowane będą równorzędnie. Zgłoszone projekty będą prezentowane na stronie Memoriału i będą oceniane przez Internautów. Głosowanie rozpocznie się 1 lutego 2011 r. i potrwa do końca miesiąca. Na decyzję o wygranej wyprawie będą miały wpływ głosy Internautów (50 %) i ocena Kapituły Memoriału (50 %), w której skład wchodzą: Olga Morawska, Zenon Raszyk, przedstawiciel marki Alpinus i członkowie Alpinus Expedition Team.

Regulamin konkursu dostępny jest na stronie alpinus-miejodwage.pl.

Nagroda

Zwycięzca konkursu otrzyma honorowe, roczne członkostwo w Alpinus Expedition Team, a zwycięska wyprawa zostanie sfinansowana. Zwycięzca, jako honorowy członek Teamu, stanie się także członkiem Kapituły Memoriału i będzie miał wpływ na wybór kolejnej zwycięskiej wyprawy.

Piotr Morawski

(ur. 27 grudnia 1976, zm. 08 kwietnia 2009) — doktor chemii na Politechnice Warszawskiej, największy polski himalaista młodego pokolenia, jeden z najlepszych himalaistów świata. Zdobywca 6 ośmiotysięczników. Od 2007 roku pełnił funkcję wiceprezesa Polskiego Związku Alpinizmu. Był także członkiem Alpinus Expedition Team.

W 1995 roku ukończył kurs skałkowy i kurs taternicki. Od początku pociągało go zimowe wspinanie w Tatrach. Miał na swoim koncie wiele przejść tatrzańskich i alpejskich. Do największych osiągnięć w wysokogórskiej karierze Piotrka należą: pierwsze zimowe wejście na ośmiotysięcznik Shisha Pangma, wraz z Simone Moro, ustanowienie — nie pobitego do tej pory — rekordu wysokości zimą na K2, wraz z Denisem Urubko, a także trawers Gasherbruma I wraz z Peterem Hamorem czy pierwsze przejście południowej ściany Shisha Pangmy zimą wraz z Simone Moro.

W 2009 r., podczas wyprawy aklimatyzacyjnej na Dhaulagiri, Piotr Morawski wpadł do szczeliny lodowcowej, niestety nie udało się go uratować. Zginął mając 32 lata. Został pochowany w Himalajach.

Alpinus Expedition Team to zespół wspieranych przez markę Alpinus polskich wspinaczy i podróżników, którzy poszukują nowych ekstremalnych wyzwań, często w dziewiczych rejonach świata. Alpinus Expedition Team tworzą: Ola Taistra, Kinga Baranowska, Edyta Ropek, Jacek Kudłaty i Marcin Gienieczko.

www.alpinus.pl.

Dodatkowe informacje: Magdalena Swoboda, tel. 692 444 289, Anna Wróblewska, tel. 697 223 850.

Źródło: – http://pza.org.pl/

* posty o wyprawach kliknij : Piotr Morawski

Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

–  Piotr Morawski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

–  Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego.

– web album – mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition 2008

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

morawski-shisha-new

Wyprawy/List of expeditions :

* *[2008] Gasherbrum II (8035) – normal route, with Peter Hamor, summited July 6th
* *[2008] Gasherbrum I (8068) – traverse, with Peter Hamor, alpine style, beginning on Spanish route, via American route, descent by normal route (Japanese route), summited June 24th,
* [2008] Annapurna (8091) – North-West face, Gabbarou spur, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Dariusz Załuski, the second repetition of the route, aborted 150 meters below the summit due to a ferocious storm on May 29th, two bivaques at 7700, just 400 meters of fixed ropes used.
* *[2008] Ama Dablam (6859) – normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Dariusz Załuski, summited April 3rd
* [2007] K2 (8611) – new route attempt on the West face, after fast ascent via Česen route on the south face stopped at 8000 after 30 hours, August 10th, with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold
* *[2007] Nanga Parbat (8125) – Diamir face, Kinshofer route, with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold, summited  July 14th
* *[2006] Broad Peak (8047) – normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor, during summit push on July 8th rescue action of an Austrian climber from the col at 7800, finally summited July 9th
* [2006] Annapurna (8091) – East ridge, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Don Bowie, almost one week spent on the ridge above 7500, summit push on May 21st aborted below East Summit (8010), rescue action of a snowblinded Tibetan climber from the ridge. Only Peter Hamor summited
* *[2006] Cho Oyu (8201) – normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Don Bowie, summited April 24th
* [2005] Annapurna (8091) – South face, Bonnington route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Marcin Miotk, Vlado Štrba, aborted at 7300 metres.
* *[2005] Shisha Pangma (8027) – first winter ascent, Yugoslavian route on South face, with Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Załuski, Jacek Jawień, summited January 14th (with Simone Moro)
* [2004] Shisha Pangma (8027) – winter expedition, South face, Spanish route, first ascent of South face in winter season, with Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Załuski, Jacek Jawień, Pierre Bergeron,  Yvon Latreille, summit push on January 17th aborted at 7700 on the summit ridge (with Simone Moro)
* [2003] K2 (8611) – winter expedition, North ridge, Japanese route, the highest point achieved in winter season on K2 by climbers with Denis Urubko, camp 4 at 7650
* [2002] Pobeda Pik (7439) – normal route, with Marcin Kaczkan, aborted at 6400
* *[2001] Chan Tengri (6995) – normal route, with Marcin Kaczkan, summited

** Zobacz też:

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /29/ – Week in Review.

Who’d have thought it? The first Everest fall summits in four years “It’s a good thing my mom isn’t here watching,” quipped the polar skier from C4 on Everest South Col. But October 15 at 12:30PM Eric Larsen plus Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years. The Terramar sponsored expedition concluded Larsen’s quest to reach the “Three Poles” in record time.

Serial Everest summiteer lost on Baruntse The loss of Chhewang Nima Sherpa put a sad end to the climbing autumn season, wrapped up in a special report by Ang Tshering Sherpa. 19x Everest summiter Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche while fixing ropes on Baruntse upper sections.

Marty Schmidt’s “shortest Himalaya expedition ever” Marty cut his solo 4-day Lhotse attempt short in order to guide a client on Ama Dablam.

Jordises out of Lhotse Spanish “K2 pirates” Corominas and Tosas finally threw in the towel on Lhotse, due to dangerous conditions.

Shisha Pangma South Koreans Chang-Ho Kim, 41, and Sung-Ho Suh summited Shisha Pangma at 2:15PM on October 14, after climbing the British route on the peak’s south side. Chang-Ho Kim claims Shisha as his twelfth 8000er without supplementary O2; Sung-Ho Kim his tenth.

Cho Oyu summit mysteries German Ralf Arnold told ExplorersWeb he was the first Cho Oyu summiteer of the season, topping out October 1, 2010 at 10:30AM in a 15 hours roundtrip from C2. An October 7 Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean Adrian Sanchez was questioned after the alleged summit picture turned out shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez.

Dhaulagiri Search parties found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche, buried in snow at about 5,000 meters on Dhaula.

Manaslu Together with a Japanese climber and his two Sherpas, Mexican couple Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reached Manaslu summit sans O2 at 2:40PM, local time on October 1, some time after the HiMex and Carlos Pauner’s groups. “We were the last to summit that day,” Badia debriefed back in Kathmandu.

Lukla plane crash No one was hurt in the plane crash at Lukla airport. “Apparently, his brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose,” SummitClimb reported.

Blind Everest summiteer Erik Weihenmayer led a team of war-battered soldiers to the top of the 20,075-foot Lobuche on October 13.

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) was topped out on October 8 by Dutch Dick Valk, Kaji Sherpa and expedition leader Paul Boslooper.

Mustang 6000ers ski “When I broke my ankle on May 1 last spring, I was at 17,600 feet on Baruntse,” Ben Clark reminded ExplorersWeb. Baruntse will lay on the shelf until Spring 2012; right now Ben and mates are back in Nepal to climb and ski Saribung (6000m) in Mustang province.

Garhwal Himalaya: Sathopanth casualties In a debrief from Satopanth (7,075m), Arun Mahajal reported to ExplorersWeb unseasonably bad weather in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. There was loss of life in the Himalayas as well as in the lowlands due to landslides and flooding. A small group of trekkers from Calcutta were trapped in a storm, a female member in a six-person Austrian team fell down a ravine during her Sathopanth ascent.

Tengkang Poche — have you seen Alexey and Svetlana? Russian climbers Alexey Gorbatenkov and Svetlana Gutsalo planned to climb Tengkang Poche (6,500m) by the end of September. Scheduled to fly home from KTM on October 7 there has been no word since. Anyone having met them on the mountain, in Thame, Namche or anywhere in the Khumbu valley please contact ExplorersWeb and/or Lena at RussianClimb.com. The peak is not far from Thame village, in the Khumbu region.

Piolet d’Or Asia Park Young-Seok, Um Hong-Gil and Kim Chang-Ho were not there; Miss Oh Eun-Sun sat away from her sponsors. Nevertheless, a jury in Korea headed by Kazakh Denis Urubko selected Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama the winners of the fifth “Les Piolets d’Or Asia” for their new route on Canada’s Mt. Logan (5,900m). The first Asia Achievement Award went to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa while Ja-In Kim received the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ and the ‘Silver Shoes’ went to Hee-yong Park in the rock-climbing category.

Pakistan: 2011 climbing fees, Alpine Club elections Veteran mountaineer Lt. Col. Manzoor Hussain (retired), has been unanimously elected as President of the ACP for the next three-year term during the Club’s Annual General Meeting held at Pakistan Sports Complex on October 17, 2010. Climbing fees for 2011 are out — small increase has been unavoidable.

Erden Eruc Around-n-Over 100+ days on the Indian Ocean For piracy protection, lonely rower Erden Eruc is currently escorted by a Turkisk naval ship towards mainland Africa. As part of his true world circumnavigation, Eruc is well on his way to become the first rower to cross the Indian ocean mainland to mainland.

ExWeb’s interview with Ousland A few hundred people greeted Ousland and Thorleifsson as they sailed in to the Fram Museum in Oslo. Explorersweb Jon Amtrup caught up with Ousland for an interview about the recent North Pole circle; circumnavigating the North Pole in one season.

ExWeb interview with Meagan McGrath Meagan spoke to ExWeb about the Antarctic crevasse fall and her recent experience on K2.

ExWeb interview with Sean Burch “Tougher than any 8000 peak I have done!” Sean told ExWeb after recently crossing Nepal in a record 49 days, 19 days faster than the previous record set by Rosie Swale Pope 2003.

ExWeb interview with Paul Landry Antarctica season kicking off, seasoned polar guide Paul Landry told ExplorersWeb about the challenges of the different ski/kite routes he has done on Antarctica, why teams would choose one route above the other, what his favorite route is and about future plans.

ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael American Todd Carmichael attempted a 400 mile (643.7 km) trek in 18.5 days through Death Valley in the USA; hauling 450 pounds of water (33 gallons / 125 liters), food and gear. It ended in equipment failure far too early for Todd, but he learnt some very important lessons for his next attempt. “There is only one way to know if something is possible – and that is to try it,” he told ExWeb.

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /27/ – Week in Review.

The ride is feared more than the actual climb by many Himalaya mountaineers, and for good reason. There were no survivors in the Lukla bound plane crash three weeks ago. Intense monsoon rains continue to make things difficult. The road to Tibet is jammed due to landslides; loads of snow is falling on Everest’s north side, numerous Khumbu-bound teams are stuck in KTM and the Manaslu trail has been flooded.

In other news: the debate continues, did she or didn’t she? Miss Oh is facing close opposition while no new facts have actually emerged. One who didn’t is Christian Stangl who shocked the community when finally forced to come clean about his K2 no-summit.

And the world turns: Himalaya fall season has kicked off with an unusual number of bold attempts announced. Plus there’s plenty of action around the world.

Everest Two climbers are currently aiming for the second solo climb of Everest (after Messner’s): Spanish Alberto Zerain via the Hornbein Couloir, and Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki by climbing up from Nepal. Alberto Zerain reached slightly over 7,000 meters on Changtse peak last week to acclimatize and has moved BC to the base of Everest’s north face with his two mates. Sharing the same goal (Hornbein) the Italian expedition reported that Tibetans are now a minority in Lhasa. Most foreign websites are blocked, and the team also had their tourist guide-book confiscated at the airport customs. Meanwhile, on the other side of Everest, Eric Larsen is slowly approaching south side BC. The weather has been so poor that there have been few flights to Lukla. There are no tourists around, “everyone is stuck in Kathmandu,” Eric reported.

Ang Tshering Sherpa reports from Nepal: Plane crash, Mingma’s 13th 8000er, floods, and upcoming Everest action Asian Trekking’s Ang Tshering Sherpa has submitted a juicy report informing about Mingma Sherpa’s 12th and 13th 8000er summits, the devastating effects of floods in central Asia, and three expeditions on Everest this fall season.

ExWeb interview with Eric Larsen: “Even in the fall, Everest is hardly the solitary experience of polar travel” Everest season is on, with at least four teams tackling the mountain at its loneliest, snow-laden face. Isolation won’t be a problem for polar skier and kayaker Eric Larsen who, together with a Sherpa team, will have the mountain to themselves as well as all the work on the south side route.

K2 Magic Line climbers Corominas & Tosas for the south face of Lhotse They were known as “the Pirates of K2” back in 2004–the Spanish team who achieved the first repetition of the mythical “Magic Line”. Summiteer Jordi Corominas and mate Jordi Tosas are now back for a new variation route on the south face of Lhotse, in alpine style.

Manaslu There is no snow in BC according to Carlos Pauner who reached the place on foot with Javi Pérez, Xavi Arias and Unai due to the rains. Also of the 2004 K2 Magic Line team, Oscar Cadiach (with daughter Julia Cadiach) and Xavi Perez will set off for Manaslu next week.

Wild Cho Oyu Two years after losing his mate Karl Unterkircher on Nanga Parbat Rakhiot face, Italian Walter Nones is finally returning to high altitude climbing. The goal is Cho Oyu, via a new route on the mountain’s west flank.

Shisha Pangma South Koreans Bo-Sung Hong, Chang-Ho Kim and Sung-Ho Suh are in Kathmandu, preparing to move to Shisha Pangma. The originally planned route is Doug Scott’s, but Kim and Suh may attempt a new route.

Himalaya wrap-up: Cho Oyu BC crowding up “There are many expeditions here, Chinese authorities have mentioned over 50 expeditions climbing Cho Oyu this season,” reported SummitClimb from Chinese BC.

Sean Burch soaked in Nepal’s monsoon rains Sean’s feet take a beating during his run and climb. Day 15 was the first day without rain.

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report–The Spring of Annapurna “When one thinks about Annapurna the first impression that comes to mind is danger,” ExWeb contributor Rodrigo Granzotto stated is his last entry of the Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle. With that being said, it was the most visited 8000er after Everest this past spring.

Korean Alpine Federation questions Miss Oh’s Kangchenjunga 2009 summit The Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) declared Miss Oh’s summit claim for Kangchenjunga 2009 “unlikely.” Their doubts add to those previously brought forward by rival Edurne Pasaban. “The picture you have seen was taken five or ten meters below the summit [of Kanchenjunga],” Miss Oh once again confirmed in an email to ExplorersWeb, allegedly determined to fight for her record.

AdventureStats on Juanito and Pauner Annapurna: summits are valid The climbers who accepted an air lift down from high camps on Annapurna following a rescue attempt of another climber will get to keep their summits at AdventureStats.

Pakistan’s season finale wrap-up: ACP’s summit list, new route on Spires, humanitarian efforts still needed Another Pakistan summer climbing season is over. Details are expected on some summit claims; while the locals made homeless in the flood disaster are about to feel the approaching winter. At least some cool new routes on the lesser peaks put a brighter end to the season.

The image proof: Stangl did not summit K2 In an encore from last year, the only summit on K2 this season was scrubbed. Christian Stangl was accused of dreaming up the entire push up in his “rock-hotel” much lower down. The morning after ExplorersWeb asked Stangl for comments regarding a picture resembling his “summit-shot”, Stangl fessed up to local media.

ExWeb interview with Gerfried Göschl: Winter G1 ahead with Louis Rousseau and Alex Chicon 2010/11 will be one of the hottest winters ever for climbing action in Pakistan! At least three teams are attempting to bag the first winter climb on a Pakistan 8000er. Gerfried Göschl revealed plans for Hidden Peak, together with regular mate Louis Rousseau from Canada, and Spaniard Alex Chico. “I have one request to all the mountaineering community out there,” Gerfried Göschl added. “Please don’t forget the people in Pakistan, try to help too!” As a veteran aid worker in the country, Gerfried is already at work to raise funds.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Simone & Denis for GII, Poles for Broad Peak Besides Gerfried, Louis and Alex on G1, the most seasoned Himalayan winter climbers of the current international panorama are joining the games for a first season’s ascent on a Karakoram 8000er.

Peak Pobeda: three climbers die in storm Nearly 15 people got stuck for seven days in a fierce storm between 7,000 and 6,400 meters, while on descent from Pobeda summit. Russian climbers Yuri Efremov, Andrey Baynazarov and Kirill Mokhov died before reaching the airlift rescue point at 5,500 meters on Dikiy Pass.

The Race Around The North Pole: Days of darkness Both Børge Ousland and the Russian expedition Peter 1st have made it through the North East Passage and are now heading for the North West Passage. In an effort to be the first yacht round the North Pole in one season; the Russian team is again back in the lead as the two boats are heading towards Cambrigde Bay. Captain of the Russian 18 meter long steel ship Daniel Gavrilov is very concerned about the North West Passage so late in the season.

Mathieu Bonnier continued Northwest Passage row from Resolute Bay In July Frenchman Mathieu Bonnier started rowing from Qaanaaq in Greenland towards Resolute Bay and on through the Northwest Passage. Enroute to Resolute – now left behind – Mathieu encountered sea ice that blocked his way and icebergs and colonies of walruses that were best avoided.

Mongolia-Russia canoe update: Arriving at Lake Baikal, Siberia Sarah, Eric, Elsa and Ulysse arrived in the delta of the Selenge River just before reaching Lake Baikal. The waters were separated into as many small rivers. The Russian landscape changed; mountains disappeared and cooler temperatures are expected.

Charlie Frew’s off-road drive through Mongolia finished The Mongolian chapter of Charlie’s off-road expedition has come to an end. On August 27 he crossed to Siberia towards Murmansk in the Arctic Circle. He needs to beat the winter storms, says Charlie, and tells about eagle hunters in Mongolia, demanding border guards and helpful Kazaks.

ExWeb Interview with Alastair Humphreys: Wild Iceland He has cycled 46,000 km around the world yet after a recent walk across Iceland Alastair Humphreys says to ExWeb the country – only three hours by plane from Britain – is one of the wildest places he has ever been. Alastair and Chris Herwig trekked from Akureyri to the Westman Islands via Hofsjokull glacier.

Erden Eruc update: Preparing for piracy mode Out on the Indian ocean, global circumnavigator Erden explains why a pair of antipode is important and tells about his “streamlined dispatch system” – Contact5 – and his one stop shop for hard to find expedition essentials. Yet as an easy target for pirates and ransom demands with his slow pace, Erden may not have much valuables with him as he rows solo from Australia to the east coast of Africa.

Last stage for Phoenicia The Phoenicia is surfing East in the Mediterranean and close to finishing the full circle of Africa. In its final stages, the 21 meter replica of a 600BC Phoenician cargo ship battled heavy shipping in the Gibraltar Strait and gale force wind in the Med.

Peter Gostelow Africa cycle update: Mosquito bed nets and unspoiled beaches Peter has been out on the road from London to Cape Town through Africa for a year now. Currently in Liberia where the food prices are very high, in Sierra Leone he helped hand out mosquito bed nets as malaria kills millions there.

Helen Lloyd’s Africa cycle: Through Cameroon Helen left London 12 months and 15,605 km ago. In her latest update from Yaoundé, the capital of Cameroon, she wrote about the battle with her tired legs and came to the conclusion it is all in her mind.

Green Traveler halted by Indian authorities His journey is not just a green gimmick that lets him get away with travelling around the world, stated Andy Pag to ExplorersWeb after he again got halted by the Indian authorities. He was trying to leave on the containership with his bus to avoid flying but could not get permission from the authorities.

Yanni Piveropoulos salt flat return trip Yanni Piveropoulos did a return trek of Salar de Uyuni, a salt flat in Bolivia. His trailer was a modification on a design he saw people using in the streets of La Paz, for hauling loads around. He told ExWeb about the challenges of a salt flat, leaking water bottles, and the indescribable Milky Way.

Vogel Family on Bikes update: The cancer kids of Cochabamba Following an emotional visit in a Bolivian hospital Nancy Vogel set up a charity fund for the cancer kids there. The Vogels further met up with the Verhage family and their 12- and 14-year old boys who also cycle the Americas.

Laura Dekker enjoying peace and space “It was a great first stage and I feel good when looking back,” says 14-year old Laura with the Canary Islands in sight. Both she and ‘Guppy’ manage very well alone at sea. Laura says it is a very different experience at sea and enjoys peace, space, sleeping, eating, navigating and the dolphins. 

The times they are a-changin Not only are age spans widening; now ladies are everywhere: At only 18, Samina Khayal summited the unclimbed Chashkin Sar (6,400m) in Shimshal. “Times have changed, and today women in Pakistan are working in areas previously designated for men (such as an army or police officer),” organizers told ExWeb. “This is part of a larger project that will culminate with a Pakistani woman climbing Everest, as Nepalese, Iranian and Indian women have done.”

* see:

First pakistani girl topped up Chashkin Sar, unclimbed 6400m peak in the Karakorum Pakistan.

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /20/ – Week in Review.

5000+ ascents to date – that’s what the Everest counter clocked before closing a successful season before this With Himalaya folding and Karakoram heating up; last week brought a number of heated climbing debriefs along with a Pakistan kickoff. Other news at ExWeb included vertical blue records and a mutiny. Here goes!

Pakistan wrap-up With only 25 climbing permits issued for all peaks, this may be the quietest Karakoram summer yet. The Polish are already at work on Nanga Parbat; others are in Islamabad preparing to hit the Karakoram. Check ExWeb for some of the coolest attempts.

Teen sailing update: Abby back in business Abby Sunderland has been out to sea a little over two weeks after she left Cape Town. The new autopilot works like it should, but she still has a list of things she must repair. The last week has served her everything from storm, water inside the boat to glassy seas.

Ama Dablam debrief Back home in France, Philippe Gatta has posted a complete Ama Dablam summit report and pictures. He also had a few words of conclusion for ExplorersWeb: “I thought that with less people on the mountain, we would have less problems in high camps, but I was wrong.” Check the report at ExWeb.

Vertical Blue 2010: Trubridge and Nitsch Set New World Records New Zealander William Trubridge and Austrian Herbert Nitsch set two new world records in the free immersion (FIM) and constant weight (CWT) disciplines respectively during the Vertical Blue in the end of April. The new records where set during the Vertical Blue 2010 freediving competition at Dean’s Blue Hole.

Everest north side debrief Reports state that SummitClimb team member Peter Kinloch, 28, died on Everest after a Sherpa team failed to help him down in storm conditions. Other north side climbers are nursing frostbite back home. Check the report at ExWeb.

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /19/ – Week in Review.

5000+ ascents to date – that’s what the Everest counter clocked before closing a successful season before this Memorial weekend. A majority of climbers made it in the final wave, including serial-summiteers such as record-westerner Dave Hahn (12th E top) and SeracFilm’s Michael Brown. Climbers were lost and rescued, while Chad’s speed attempt got stuck in lines on the Balcony. Check all details at ExWeb before the spotlight moves to Karakoram. In other news:

Makalu It’s over for the British Forces team, who finally retreated from the rarely climbed SE ridge. A French expedition summited Makalu from the normal route on May 23rd, Marty Schmidt made it on the 24th descending with the three Ukrainian summiteers who topped out via a new route on the SW face.

Cho Oyu SummitClimb, Adventure Peaks and the Baltic United team (w/o 02) Saulius Vilius, Allan Valge and Tanel Tuuleveski all bagged the peak.

Shisha Pangma German skiers reported they’d try a last-ditch attempt mid last week.

Tracking Explorers: beyond SPOT’s reach – meet Solara Tiny and affordable a SPOT tracker is the “it” thing in Himalaya right now. Globalstar’s satellite system lacks 100% coverage of the globe though, so for transmissions of positions in polar areas as well as much of the South Pacific and Indian Oceans an Iridium based system is a must. Check out ExWeb’s tech review of Solara.

Hero in the making: First Indian to circumnavigate Naval officer Dilip Donde just returned from a full solo circumnavigation as the first Indian national. He did it in the first fiberglass produced Indian sailing yacht – the 56 feet INSV Mhadei.

Erden Eruc update: Cycling Southern Australia In his world circumnavigation, Erden continued cycling around southern Australia westwards towards Perth. He crossed Australia’s longest straight road and Nullarbor Plain, a treeless limestone area of 200,000 km2, and travelled along the Bunda Cliffs that drops vertically into the Southern Ocean averaging 90m.

First Norwegians through Northeast Passage since Amundsen In the summer of 2009 the three Norwegians Trond Aasvoll, Hans Fredrik Haukland and Finn Andreassen left Vardø, just by the Russian border, with an ambition to sail both the Northeast and Northwest Passage in on summer. But Russian officials and paperwork stopped half their dream.

ExWeb interview: Ousland to sail round the North Pole Norwegian Børge Ousland is famous for his expeditions on ice. This summer he is hoping for as little ice as possible as he and his partner Thorleif Thorleifsson will try to circumnavigate the North Pole under sail in one season. So far no one has managed to do that.

ExWeb interview with Christian Eide, “Training in advance, skis on the sledges and a strict daily routine” Christian Eide and his Team Latitude crossed the Greenland Ice Cap in 14 days and 16 hours. “Not a record, but still a good time for 11 persons,” Christian said to ExplorersWeb. He explained what contributed to their success, about his sled modification and the conditions on Greenland.

ExWeb interview with Ian Couch and Ben Thackwray The 2 Greenland skiers teamed up for the first time on a row boat across the mid Atlantic in 2007-08 and made 2 attempts to break the speed record along the horizontal crossing of the Greenland Ice Cap. Ian Couch rowed 3x across the oceans and talked to ExWeb about the importance of the crew’s personalities and the similarities & differences between rowing & polar skiing.

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Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /18/ – Week in Review.

Mount Everest has had a large number of summits from both sides. Among the major events: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner – in her 13th no-O2 8000er, Jordan Romero, 13, Apa Sherpa in his 20th Everest summit, Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc, etc. On the third day of the current summit wave, wind has spiked and teams are describing tough conditions. Pushes and summits are reported also from Cho Oyu and word just arrived from RussianClimb that the Ukrainians summited Makalu via a new route. Go to ExplorersWeb for all the details. In other news:

Dhaulagiri inferno: Air Rescue Mission debrief A Chinese expedition on Dhaulagiri reached the summit by nightfall and had to force a bivouaq through the stormy night. In an ensuing inferno three of the climbers lost their lives. A frantic effort by Fishtail Air and Air Zermatt rescued the survivors; read their report.

Annapurna Both Iranian Ehsan Partovi-Nia and S. Korean Park Young-Seok have called it quits on Annapurna.

Shisha Pangma summit debrief and pics: Edurne Pasaban ultimate 8000er “I just can’t assume the fact that I am done,” Edurne Pasaban told ExplorersWeb from BC after bagging Shisha at last. Together with Asier Izaguirre, Alex Txicon, Nacho Orbiz and sherpas, Pasaban climbed in rather light style, pitching three camps on the way up to her 14th 8000er.

Lhotse: Kazakhs on top! Kazakhs Maxut Zhumayev, Vassiliy Pivtsov and Vlad Chekhlov summited Lhotse in what became the 13th 8000er for both Maxut and Vassily Pivtsov. As usual, Denis Urubko went his own way and opened a new route on the mountain sans 02.

Christian Bodegren Sahara Desert update: Leaving the camels and the desert The Swede brought his Sahara Desert crossing to a halt due to raising temperatures. Before leaving Christian had to sell his camels.

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Edurne Pasaban the first European and second woman in the world to complete the 14x8000ers.

Shisha Pangma summit debrief and pics: Edurne Pasaban ultimate 8000er.

Posted: May 18, 2010 01:00 pm EST
(ExWeb/Madrid) “I just can’t assume the fact that I am done,” Edurne Pasaban told ExplorersWeb over Sat-phone earlier today from BC. “Sure, I am happy to be safely back in BC after summiting a 8000+ meter peak – just like after any other climb! I’m trying to get a different feeling this time, but everything looks just the same… Oh boy, I think it’ll take some time for the feat to settle down in my mind! Surely, once back home…”

At 1:50pm Nepal Time today Edurne and the rest of Al Filo de lo Imposible team members entered Shisha Pangma BC, thus crossing the finish line of a 12 years-long project. In her fifth attempt on Shisha and precisely one month after summiting Annapurna, Spanish Edurne Pasaban (36) has become the first European and second woman in the world to complete the 14x8000ers.

“Hey it’s not that I am not happy! I am actually elated. But, I think “14x8000ers” and lots of people come to my mind. My parents, friends, climbing mates, supporters – crowds to be grateful to. I am looking around and watching the expedition Doc checking the sherpas, the camera crew sending over images, my mates… There’s much people involved in this – yeah, I summited the peaks, but otherwise I am just a part of a large team project.”

Summit day in Iñaki’s footprints

“Summit day was great – everything went just smoothly” Pasaban recalls. “We had planned to set off at 4 am, but wind was blowing hard at the time, so we decided to wait until dawn. It worked: as sun rose, wind dropped. Then we left C3.”

“Mingma, Asier and I took the lead and broke trail along the traverse below the summit ridge,” said Edurne. “We followed Iñaki route, but not losing altitude as he was forced to do back in 2006 – conditions were so good that we just traversed in a slightly ascending direction, until we reached the couloir Iñaki had used to gain the summit ridge.”

“Conditions at the couloir were, at first, perfect: hard snow. On top we met some more fresh snow, but not for long anyway. The couloir leads to a small saddle – right where the British route from the south side ends. I looked at my watch and I couldn´t believe my eyes: It was 9.00am! I had been worried because that was the first time I had set off on a summit day after dawn; then I realized we had plenty of time.”

“It was also great that we had chosen to climb Iñaki route: the summit ridge was unclimbable: sharp, dangerous with fragile snow slabs, and extremely long! The meters we walked on the edge from the saddle to the summit and back were the scariest in the entire climb.”

Home-sick

Descent was also fast and uneventful. Pasaban team retrieved their gear from C3 and pitched the tents again in C2 (they had no previously set higher camps) still in daylight. Today they took their time and returned in great weather conditions.

“The yaks are coming tomorrow, we will return to Nyalam Thursday, and hopefully hit back KTM on Friday,” Edurne said. “We’re on our 75th day of expedition; it’s getting too long! I am fine, since my parents have come to greet me in Kathmandu and so I am looking forward to meeting them – but my mates are missing their families quite a lot.”

All teams back in BC

Besides Edurne, summiteers were: Pasaban mates Nacho Orviz, Asier Itaguirre, Alex Chicon (Txicon), Mingma Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa; Italians Mario Panzeri and Michele Compagnoni (Alberto eventually turned back); Spanish J, Ramon Madariaga, Isabel garcía, Roberto Rodrigo and Jaume Gibernau, plus a 69 years old Japanese climber, on O2 and together with two sherpas. It is unconfirmed whether the Italian and Madariaga teams were accompanied by sherpas as well.

Al Filo team members were first to reach BC today, according to the expedition doctor Pablo Diaz-Munio, while other teams showed up later in the day. “As they arrived, I checked some climbers with health problems: One shows sympthoms of HAPE, two sustain very sore throaths, other two are seriously dehydrated and another climber feared to be frostbitten (it doesn´t seems so) – nothing too serious, thanks God,” Pablo stated.

A keen mountaineer since she was a child in the Spanish Basque Country, Edurne Pasaban (Tolosa, 1973) soon gained experience in the Alps and Andes’ ranges before her jump into the Himalayan scene: Her first 8000er was Everest, summited in 2001.

Five more huge peaks among the so-called 14 8000ers added up in the following two years: Makalu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and the Gasherbrums.

In 2004, Edurne joined Spanish TV’s “Al Filo de lo Imposible” (On the Edge of the Impossible) documentary series for an attempt on K2. She succeeded, but at a high toll: frostbites suffered on descent in extreme conditions cost her two toes.

Nevertheless, she also won over Nanga Parbat in 2005 and Broad Peak in 2007.

It was when she counted nine out of 14 summit under her belt, that she entirely focused on completing the “14×8000 Challenge”, together with team-mates Asier Izaguirre, Alez Chicon, Ferran Latorre, and Ignacio Delgado as manager. Thus Manaslu and Dhaulagiri followed in 2008, and Kangchenjunga in 2009. This current year, Edurne jumped on a double-header bet, comprising the highly dangerous Annapurna and Shisha Pangma (which she had already attempted four times!), teaming up with the usual mates plus nacho orviz, who substituded Ferran Latorre (injured on a partial ski descent on Anna).

The gambling paid off and May17th at 11.30am Nepal Time, she became 14x8000er summiteer.

* Website spanish climber: Edurne Pasaban

Climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders

Field 02 lists people who have peaked all 14 without bottled oxygen.

Order
accomplished
All without
O2 (order)
Name Period born at age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970-1986 1944 42 Flag of Italy Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979-1987 1948 39 Flag of Poland Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982-1995 1959 36 Flag of Switzerland Swiss
4 Carlos Carsolio 1985-1996 1962 33 Flag of Mexico Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980-1996 1950 46 Flag of Poland Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985-1999 1956 43 Flag of Spain Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983-2000 1949 51 Flag of Italy Italian
8 Young Seok Park 1993-2001 1963 38 Flag of South Korea Korean
9 Hong Gil Um 1988-2001 1960[6] 40 Flag of South Korea Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991-2002[7] 1968 33 Flag of Spain Spanish
11 Wang Yong Han 1994-2003 1966 37 Flag of South Korea Korean
12 5[8] Ed Viesturs 1989-2005 1959 46 Flag of the United States American
13 6[9][10][11] Silvio Mondinelli 1993-2007 1958 49 Flag of Italy Italian
14 7[12] Ivan Vallejo 1997-2008 1959 49 Flag of Ecuador Ecuador
15 8 [13] Denis Urubko 2000-2009 1973 35 Flag of Kazakhstan Kazakhstan
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990-2009 1961[14] 47 Flag of Germany German
17 9 Veikka Gustafsson 1993-2009 1968 41 Flag of Finland Finnish
18 [16] Andrew Lock 1993-2009 1961 48 Flag of FinlandAustralia
19 10 João Garcia 1993-2010 1967 43 Portugal Portuguese
20 Piotr Pustelnik 1990-2010 1951 59 Poland Polish
21 [21] Oh Eun-Sun 1997-2010 1966 44 South Korea Korean
22
Edurne Pasaban
2001-2010 1973 36 Spain Spanish

*See:

Edurne Pasaban

** Previous story :

Veikka Gustafsson completes the 14×8000ers list!

Andrew Lock completes the 14×8000ers list!

Oh Eun-Sun summits Annapurna – becomes the first woman 14x8000er summiteer!

Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna – bags the 14x8000ers!

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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