Jerzy Kukuczka – 21 rocznica śmierci najsławniejszego polskiego himalaisty.

Dziś przypada 21 rocznica śmierci Jerzego Kukuczki

– najsławniejszego polskiego himalaisty.

Był WIELKI w czasach gdy w Polsce, jego ojczyźnie, wszystko było małe.. gdy walczyło się z komuną.. gdy walczyło się o chleb dnia powszedniego.. ON wbrew wszystkiemu zdobywał szczyty i często mieszkał na Dachu Świata.. za swą miłość do gór zapłacił wielka cenę.. zapłacił swoim życiem!!!!…

Jerzy Kukuczka – (24 marca 1948 – 24 października 1989) urodzony w Katowicach polski alpinista i himalaista, kukuczka m1jako drugi człowiek na Ziemi zdobył Koronę Himalajów i Karakorum – wszystkie 14 szczytów o wysokości ponad 8 tysięcy metrów, (pierwszy był Reinhold Messner, któremu zajęło to 16 lat, Kukuczce zaledwie 8).Spośród 14 ośmiotysięczników, które zdobył w latach 1979-1987na 11 z nich wszedł nowymi drogami (poza swoim pierwszym ośmiotysięcznikiem wspinał się albo w ekstremalnie ciężkich warunkach zimą albo nowymi trasami), 5-krotnie w stylu alpejskim, na 4 – po raz pierwszy zimą, na 1 szczyt samotnie – żaden inny zdobywca14 ośmiotysięczników nie może pochwalić się takim bilansem. Dokonał rzeczy niebywałej – w ciągu niespełna półtora roku (21 stycznia 1985 r.– 18 lipca 1986 r.) zdobył pięć ośmiotysięczników, z czego aż trzy zimą, na dwóch zaś, także na K2, wytyczył nowe, niezwykle trudne drogi.Wolno aklimatyzował się, za to słynął z ogromnej wytrzymałości psychicznej i fizycznej. Jego partnerami byli m.in. Wojciech Kurtyka, Artur Hajzer oraz Ryszard Pawłowski.

W 1988 na Igrzyskach Olimpijskich w Calgary wraz z Reinholdem Messnerem nagrodzony srebrnym medalem olimpijskim. Reinhold Messner odmówił przyjęcia medalu uzasadniając swój gest tym,że uważa alpinizm za twórczość, a nie rywalizację. Kukuczka przyjął medal, ponieważ w wyczynowym wspinaniu widział sportowe wartości co niejednokrotnie podkreślał. “W alpinizmie, jak w szachach – mówił -jest miejsce na swego rodzaju twórczość i sportową rywalizację. Gdyby jej zabrakło, być może nigdy bym się nie wspinał.” “Mnie nie wystarczy być tylko w górach – dodał później – nie wystarczy być na wyprawie.Uważam, że jeżeli się podchodzi pod górę, to z jakimś celem, a tym celem jest wejść na tę górę.” Poczta Polska wydała okolicznościowy znaczek, który został zaprojektowany przez J.Konarzewskiego. Na znaczku można zobaczyć panoramę Himalajów, podobiznę Kukuczki i jego olimpijskiego medalu.

Zginął na wysokości 8 300 metrów 24 października 1989 podczas wejścia na Lhotse nową drogą przez słynną, niezdobytą wówczas południową ścianę. Szczyt atakował wspólnie z Ryszardem Pawłowskim. Kukuczka wspinał się jako pierwszy i tuż przed granią szczytową odpadł. Lina nie wytrzymując obciążenia, pękła, a wspinacz spadł w przepaść. Po odnalezieniu ciała pochowano go w lodowej szczelinie, nieopodal miejsca upadku. Tablica pamiątkowa została umieszczona w Chukung nieopodal południowej ściany Lhotse , a także na Symbolicznym Cmentarzu Ofiar Tatr pod Osterwą.

Kukuczka tablica Chukung Pamiątkowa tablica nieopodal Chukung.

„Od śmierci w dolinach zachowaj nas Panie” – J. Kukuczka

* Sylwetka himalaisty przedstawiona jest na :

Jerzy Kukuczka – famous Polish climber /Version polish and english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend part 1. /Version english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend part 2. /Version english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend part 3. /Version english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend, part 4, final. /Version english/

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Odsłonięto czorten Kukuczki

Najpierw za tych co w górach zostali na zawsze – uczestnicy wyprawy HiMalajska Wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego – Dhaulagiri 2008 odsłonili czorten Kukuczki.

Uczestnicy wyprawy: Artur Hajzer i Robert Szymczak, przebywający w rejonie Khumbu ( kwiecień 2008r) w ramach aklimatyzacji przed zasadniczą wspinaczką na Dhaulagiri dokonali odsłonięcia czortenu pamięci trzech polskich himalaistów, którzy zginęli podczas polskich wypraw na esktremalnie trudną, legendarną południową ścianę Lhotse (8511 m n.p.m.)

Byli to:

– Rafał Chołda, który jesienią 1985 roku, podczas odwrotu z nieudanego ataku szczytowego w zesple z J.Kukuczką i R.Pawłowskim odpadł od ściany w niezaporęczowanym terenie śnieżno – skalnym na wysokości 8000 m. Spadł w kilkukilometrową przepaść i zginął na miejscu.

– Czesław Jakiel, lekarz wyprawy z jesieni 1987 roku, który zginął raniony podmuchem fali uderzeniowej lawiny seraków na lodowcu na wysokości 5300 m w czasie podejścia do obozu I

– Jerzy Kukuczka, polski bohater narodowy, określany przez alpinistów z całego świata i specjalistyczne media jako “najlepszy himalaista wszechczasów”, który jesienią 1989 roku odpadł od ściany na wysokoći 8200 m i spadł do podnóża ściany ponosząc śmierć na miejscu. Jego partnerem był R.Pawłowski. Łącząca ich lina nie wytrzymała impetu upadku i pękła.

czorten-kukuczkiCzorten Kukuczki – Himalaje 2008

Południowa ściana Lhotse (8511 m n.p.m.) została zdobyta do tej pory tylko raz – w 1991 roku przez ekspedycję rosyjską. Atakowana była przez kilkanaście wypraw w tym 4 zespoły polskie. Mierzyli się z nia najlepsi himalaiści, w tym wyprawa kierowana przez Reinholda Messnera z udziałem sławnego alpejczyka Christopha Profita. Najwyżej wspinał się polski zespół: A.Hajzer i K.Wielicki, który w 1987 roku osiagnął wysokość 8300 m – ten fragment ściany to największe trudności techniczne jakie pokonał człowiek na tej wysokości. Trudny, nieplanowany biwak w sztormie, w dziupli lodowej zmusił himalaistów do odwrotu.

Czorten upamiętniający himalaistów, od razu nazwany czortenem KUKUCZKI, zbudowała dzięki funduszom Fundacji Kukuczki, Fundacji Wspierania Polskiego Himalaizmu im. Jerzego Kukuczki agencja Mountain Tribes Babu Sherpy za kwotę ok. 5000zł na przełomie lutego i marca 2008 roku w miejscu wskazanym w styczniu przez K.Wielickiego; u wejścia do wsi Chuckung u podnóża południowej ściany Lhotse, gdzie miały miejsce wszystkie trzy wypadki. Odsłonięcia w dniu 22 marca dokonali Artur Hajzer i Robert Szymczak, którzy przebywali w tym rejonie w ramach przygotowań do “HiMalajskiej Wyprawy – Dhaulagiri 2008″.

Blisko dwu godzinne modły w obrządku buddyjskim odprawił Lama ze świątyni w Pangboche, złożono ofiare, rozwieszono modlitewne chorągiewki a następnie po chrześcijańsku wygłoszono słowo boże i w ciszy odmówiono modlitwę. W uroczystości udział brała grupa turytów z Polski. Pod czortenem ułożono świeczkę i kwiaty przekazane przez rodzinę Jerzego Kukuczki.

Poniżej zdjęcia z uroczystości odsłonięcia czortenu Kukuczki.

czorten-kukuczki-2

czorten-kukuczki-4

czorten-kukuczki-3

czorten-kukuczki-1

Po uroczystościach Artur Hajzer powiedział:

– Rafał Chołda byl moim jedynym prawdziwym przyjacielem i partnerem od liny, z którym stawiałem pierwsze kroki w górach; miałem też honor wejść na cztery szczyty ośmiotysięczne z Jurkiem Kukuczką; południowej ścianie Lhotse poświęciłem 3 sezony (w sumie swoją “karierę”), spędziłem w niej kilkadziesiąt dni – chwile przy czortenie poruszyły mnie do głębi – wracając pamięcią do tamtych czasów i tamtych wielkich ludzi budzi się we mnie tylko żal.

Wszystkie kolejne grupy turystów z Polski prosimy o dowieszanie nowych chorągiewek modlitewnych i usuwanie starych, tych zniszczonych lub wypłowiałych.

poludniowa-sciana-lhotse-new1

Na zdjęciu powyżej /klikniecie 2 razy powiększa zdjęcie/ widoczna jest południowa ściana Lhotse. Oznaczono na nim :

– czerwona linia – droga polska przez płd. ścianę Lhotse

– pkt. fioletowy – szczyt główny

– pkt. niebieski – miejsce odpadnięcia Jerzego Kukuczki

– pkt. żółty – miejsce odpadnięcia Rafała Chołdy

– pkt. zielony – miejsce śmierci Czesława Jakiela

– pkt. pamarańczowy – bariera seraków, która spadła i zabiła Czesława Jakiela

– pkt. czarny – miejsce biwaku A.Hajzera i K.Wielickiego; najwyżej osiągnięty punkt (8300 m n.p.m.)

* wszystkie posty o Kukuczce : – Jerzy Kukuczka

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

Posted: Sep 30, 2010 10:28 am EDT
Story update 1:10PM: An avalanche hit Japan’s Association of Professional Guides team on Dhaulagiri on Tuesday, Jusuke Hirai reports. Osamu Tanabe, 49, Toshio Yamamoto, 36, and Daisuke Honda, 32, plus Pasang Gyelu Sherpa are missing since then.

Dhaulagiri, 8,167m. (courtesy Edurne Pasaban, http://www.edurnepasaban.com)

Two other members have been rescued alive, according to Yusuke, and have just caught a flight back to Japan. A chopper was assigned to search the area today and some Japanese guides might travel to Nepal this weekend, hoping to help in searching labors.

Osamu Tanabe, 49, is one of the leading high altitude climbers in Japan. He has summited nine 8000ers, among them a “winterly” climb on Everest in 1993 (Osamu summited on December 20, one day before the beginning of calendar winter). After attempts in 2001 and 2003, he led the team whose members climbed Lhotse’s south face in winter 2007 (the team didn’t reach the summit, but climbed the entire face).

He also climbed Nemjung Peak West Face last
year with Shinshu University Alpine Club.

Note: Contrary to previous reports, the missing climbers are not from Tokyo. Tanabe comes from the city of Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture; Honda lives in the village of Hakuba, Nagano Prefecture, and Yamamoto is from Asahi, Toyama Prefecture.

* Previous story :

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

Youngest On Everest Update: China Sets Age Limit On Everest.

Youngest On Everest Update: Nepal Grants Sherpa Permission.

Youngest On Everest: Worst Fears Realized?

Everest 2010: Busy Weekend At The Summit.

Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

* Related Links :

Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Forever on the Mountain by James M. Tabor.

Forever on the Mountain: The Truth Behind One of the Most Tragic, Mysterious, and Controversial Disasters in Mountaineering History.

IN THE SUMMER of 1967, Joe Wilcox, 24, led an expedition of twelve exemplary young men toward the summit of Mt. McKinley. Only five returned. Forever on the Mountain book by James M. Tabor

While more than half the expedition remained stranded and dying at 20,000 feet, trapped by one of the worst storms in mountaineering history, ten days passed with no rescue attempt. Seven men perished under mysterious circumstances.

Reckoning by lives lost, the tragedy was history’s third-worst mountaineering disaster when it occurred, and it marked the end of a golden age of pioneer climbing on Mt. McKinley. Yet, for reasons that have remained cloudy, there was no proper official investigation of the catastrophe.

Forever on the Mountain begins as a classic tale of men against nature gambling, and losing, on one of the world’s most coveted—and deadliest—peaks. But the story takes an unexpected twist, turning from one of disaster to one of discovery.

Elements of incompetence, finger-pointing, and cover-up pervaded the tragedy and its aftermath. The victims’ bodies were never recovered; no cameras or diaries shed light on the climbers’ final days. Verdicts hastily pronounced by agenda-driven critics effectively ended investigation of the tragedy before it began. Complicating matters further, expedition leader Joe Wilcox and expedition member Howard Snyder, alienated on the mountain, offered up wildly varying explanations of the tragedy that remained unresolved until this book.

James M. Tabor draws on previously untapped sources, including personal interviews with survivors and others involved with the expedition, unpublished correspondence and diaries, sensitive government documents obtained through Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) requests, and consultations with experts in disciplines such as forensics, high altitude research, psychology and psychiatry, systems analysis, meteorology, and more.

Drawing on this evidence and his own Alaskan climbing experience, Tabor follows the climbers’ progress up McKinley’s Muldrow Glacier Route as treacherous crevasses, altitude sickness, avalanche danger, horrific weather, exhaustion, and psychological stress threaten the team’s already fragile cohesion. But he also reveals important stories surrounding the expedition tale itself, without which the tragedy cannot be fully understood:  a stillborn rescue operation conceived by a lone park ranger; bureaucratic bungling and foot-dragging;  a heroic rescue attempt by another civilian team on the mountain, and the expedition’s rancorous and politically charged aftermath. Tabor has pieced together, for the first time, the complete story of one of the most tragic, mysterious, and controversial disasters in the history of mountaineering.

* Source : – http://www.jamesmtabor.com/

* Related Links :  – Books.

Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska – highest mountain peak in North America. /Version english and polish/

* Previous story :

How Much Does it Cost to Climb the Seven Summits?

Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour Teaser Video.

Dhaulagiri 1960-2010: 50 years anniversary special.

Summit Day on Mt Everest – amazing video.

Interview with Dave Hahn.

The Deadly Side of Everest.

The Conquest of Everest – 1953 style : amazing video.

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

*  Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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How You Can Help Haiti.

Footage Video of People just after the Haiti EarthQuake :

Just across the Caribbean from Central America, Haiti is already the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere. Now, CNN says the capital city, Port-au-Prince, has been “flattened” by Tuesday’s earthquake. Already, they’ve run out of medical supplies. There’s no food. No water. No electricity.

Here are three ways you can help Haiti right this very second.

Easy: Donate to Partners in Health.

“Currently, our greatest need is financial support. Haiti is facing a crisis worse than it has seen in years, and it is a country that has faced years of crisis, both natural disaster and otherwise… If you are not in a position to make a financial contribution, you can help us raise awareness of the earthquake tragedy. Please alert your friends to the situation and direct them to this webpage for updates and ways to help.”

Easier: Text “HAITI” to “90999” to donate $10 to the Red Cross (This only works with US cell phones).

Easiest: Tweet or blog the above Partners in Health link (https://donate.pih.org/page/contribute/haiti_earthquake?source=earthquake&subsource=homepage) and/or how to donate to the Red Cross via text.

* Source :  – http://gocentralamerica.about.com/

How You Can Help Haiti – update.

You can donate to Zanmi Lasante’s child nutrition program.  Zanmi Lasante is a program of Partners in Health, founded by Dr. Paul Farmer – a truly amazing man.

You can make a donation to the Vanguard Foundation’s Haiti Emergency Relief Fund.

You can advocate for forgiving Haiti’s debt (courtesy of Haiti Reborn).

You can donate to these groups:

–  Text Yele. Wyclef Jean is urging donors to text ‘Yele’ to 501501 and make a $5 contribution to the relief effort over cell phone.  Click here to get more information via Wyclef’s Twitter page.

Save the Children. Donate at savethechildren.org or make checks out to “Save the Children” and mail to: Save the Children Income Processing Department, 54 Wilton Road, Westport, Conn. 06880

UNICEF. Go online to unicefusa.org/haitiquake or call (800) 4UNICEF.

Red Cross. Go online to redcross.org and click Donate, or call (800) REDCROSS.

Direct Relief International. Donate online at directrelief.org.

Mercy Corp. Go online to mercycorps.org or mail checks to Haiti Earthquake Fund, Dept. NR, PO Box 2669, Portland, Ore. 97208 or call (888) 256-1900

To find information about friends and family in Haiti: The U.S. State Department set up a toll-free number to call for information about family members in Haiti: 1-888-407-4747.

The department said some callers may receive a recording because of heavy volume of calls.

The State Department has also set up links on its Web site to facilitate donations to disaster relief agencies.

* Source :  – http://www.nydailynews.com/news

* Previous story :

The Great Orchestra Of Christmas Charity – 18th Great Finale: photo gallery. WOŚP – 18 finał : galeria zdjęć.

*  Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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The Deadly Side of Everest.

Author: Alan Arnette.
Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

To start any article on climbing deaths, it must be said that every death is devastating to family and friends and should never be taken lightly. I have helped bury climbing partners on high peaks and never wish that experience on anyone.

Sadly, mountaineering often receives mainstream media attention only when someone dies and especially on Everest. This was never more true than during the 1996 season that saw 8 people killed in a storm and then in 2006 when another 12 died while climbing. According to Eberhard Jurgalski’s 8000ers.com website, there have been about 4,024 summits since 1922 with 218 deaths or a 5.4% fatality rate.

Since 1990, the deaths have dropped to 4.4% due to better gear, weather forecasting and more rescue resources available, ironically, due to more climbers on the mountain. In 2009, about 281 people made it from the south and 60 from the north. There were 5 deaths. A record 500 people summited in 2007 evenly split between both sides, again with 5 deaths.

I wanted to examine the true statistics behind Everest in the past decade and looked to 8000ers.com for some facts. Based on his tables, the north side fatality rate is more than 2:1 over the south with falls, altitude issues and exhaustion noted as the primary reasons. The difference is even more extreme when the deaths of 9 south side Sherpas are taken from the total, making the ratio of “member or client” climber deaths from north to south 8:1. Here is the summary:

Reason
North Ridge Route
South Col Route
Other Routes
Fall 7 3 1
Altitude 8 2 1
Exhaustion 7 1 1
Unknown 5 1 1
Avalanche 0 3 2
Crevasse 0 4 0
Exposure 4 0 0
Heart 1 1 0
32 15 6

That the north side death rate is higher is not a big surprise. The north is traditionally considered slightly more dangerous given the exposure to the cold and harsh winds plus the technical nature of the Steps and exposed rock on the summit ridge.

Due to lower costs, more independent climbers are on the north thus sometimes finding themselves alone in the event of a problem. Also, it seems that more climbers do not use supplemental oxygen on the north than on the south which also can accelerate altitude issues especially in the harshest of conditions.

However, there is no strong correlation between deaths of independent climbers vs climbers on commercial expeditions. Finally, with the exception of 2005 through 2007, the south has had significantly more climbers thus more rescue resources in the event of a problem. Traditionally, commercial operators focused on the south thus fielding more Sherpas.

As far as nationalities, the Nepalese Sherpas suffer the most with 10 of the 53 deaths this decade almost all on the south side from falls, avalanches and crevasse accidents. 6 South Koren climbers have died but no other single nationality has more than 4 deaths in the past decade. As far as operators, no one operator stood out since the majority of the non-Sherpa deaths were of climbers on private national climbs,  large shared permits or were climbing independently.

I am often asked which side is safer and my answer is pick your poison. The south has the Khumbu Icefall and the north has the Steps and weather. However these numbers clearly show the north takes a stronger toll. But the real story is the role and impact of the unsung heroes – the Sherpas.

Climb On!

Alan

* Source : – Alan Arnette : 2010 Everest expeditions.

* Previous story :

The Conquest of Everest – 1953 style : amazing video.

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

*  Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: Altitude Junkies and FTA – corporate compassion.

”We want to congratulate Altitude Junkies for their great attitude in C1,” wrote Portuguese Daniela Teixeira from Gasherbrums BC in early August. When independent climbers thank commercial expeditions, a wind of change is blowing.

After being told to mind their own business, Altitude Junkies went inside a crack, recovered the trash bags, brought them to BC and silently emptied them right in front of the offenders mess tent.

French team member Arian Lemal later compiled such a sensible report on expedition waste that the community actually took it to heart.

In the past, the main objective of many environmental expeditions has been money rather than sanitation. Altitude Junkies showed that much can be accomplished by small means if the purpose is true.

Soon after, another commercial outfit went beyond its duties, for an independent climber.

“Deciding to help was automatic,” team member Dave Ohlson told ExplorersWeb. “We had returned previously from K2 of course, but circumstances changed when we heard of a Spanish climber trapped on the NW ridge of Latok II, a 7100 meter peak off the Biafo glacier.”

Field Touring Alpine joined the search for Oscar Perez without thinking twice. The rescue attempt was unsuccessful but its legacy remains. “I had never met Oscar, Alvaro or any of the Spanish,” Dave told ExWeb afterwards, “[but] Oscar is one of us and we all hope our brothers would help if we were in need.”

Later in fall, several commercial teams helped keep the records straight on true summits.

“I know that when I plan my Everest trip in the next 3 years I would spend an extra $10k to work with a company that has corporate compassion,” a reader wrote to ExplorersWeb in relation to commercial guide Luis Benitez speaking out on Nangpa La.

This is the first time commercial outfits receive an ExWeb award. We hope it’s the first of many.

Related story: Arian Lemal: waste management +8000 m style.

Related story: ExWeb interview with Latok II rescuer Dave Ohlson, “deciding to help was automatic”.

Related story: “I would spend an extra $10k to work with a company that has corporate compassion”

Special mentions:
– Good guys leaving too early: Tomaz, Piotr, Serguey, Martin, Oscar, Roby…
– GIII/GIV attempt and rescue.
– Nives Meroi, fame for love.
– North Pole-Greenland crossing and polar records.

* Previous story :

–   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards – Special mention.

–  ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Polar adventures.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Significant climbs.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: The Oceans.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Mount Everest.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Controversies.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Technology and Space.

–   Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards – Special mention.

We have covered hundreds of expeditions in 2009. It’s difficult to choose the best, as they all contributed in their own way, sharing their story – their very soul in fact – with us and the world.

And yet, there are those who continue to linger in our minds long after their final debrief. We have chosen 8 expeditions who have contributed in an extraordinary way to the Spirit of Adventure in 2009.

By their performance, these expeditions have proved themselves outstanding in all or most of the following:

– Courage
– Determination
– Persistence
– Self reliance
– Ingenuity
– Pioneering
– Idealism
– Comradeship
– Compassion
– Respect towards competition
– Honesty

Out of the hundreds of expeditions, the countdown of the most exceptional begins tomorrow, but starts already today with a special mention to an additional 4:

Special mention: Good guys leaving too early – Tomaz, Piotr, Serguey, Martin, Oscar, Roby, Mark…

“It is curious that physical courage should be so common in the world and moral courage so rare,” said Mark Twain. You might be surprised to find this quote in a place covering hard adventure. Yet real explorers know that true heroes own the full spectrum of guts.

A special mention to the many this year that left us with a legacy to do things our way, and the right way.

* see :

–   Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

Special mention: GIII rescue

Bad tales grab most headlines but Himalaya also offers the most incredible rescues. Often un-noticed so far away from the climbers’ homelands, here’s just one example:

Attempting a new line on GIII’s NW flank in Pakistan, American Don Bowie, Bruce Normand, Billy and Guy were in C4 at 7300m going for the summit at midnight.

Things didn’t go to plan. Bruce became sick that night and his state worsened through the following day, while a storm unfolded outside. By the second night the situation became critical as the climber drifted in and out of consciousness, with an O2 sat measurement a staggeringly low 37%.

Early morning Bruce vomited while Don failed to establish a GPS signal. An amazing emergency descent followed in howling winds and zero visibility. Roped together the four climbers tackled unknown terrain through icefalls, black crevasses, fresh snow and avalanche debris for hours on end, eventually bringing their mate down to safety.

Details and more images here.

Related story: GIII-GVI: ExWeb special on “the other Gasherbrums”.

Special mention: Nives Meroi, fame vs. love

The position of the first woman in the world to summit all 14, 8000ers (Messner was the first male) will not necessarily go to the one who “deserves” it most.

A few years ago Nives Meroi and her husband Romano Benet were the only to summit K2 without oxygen, Sherpas or fixed rope on the upper sections. That year only two other climbers reached the summit, heavily supported.

This spring, Romano became seriously ill high up on Kangchenjunga and his wife gave up her top rank on the female 14x8000ers list to save his life. In her interview with ExplorersWeb, Nives said the chain of events helped her realize what is really important in life.

“I have summited all my 8000ers together with [Romano] and can’t think of reaching a summit without sharing it with him,” she said. “[The events] opened my eyes, and put my feet back on the ground. I remembered why I climb, how I climb, what is really important in life, and what is without sense.”

Related story: ExWeb Interview with Nives Meroi: “Romano comes first, whatever happens”.

* Previous story :

–  ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Polar adventures.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Significant climbs.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: The Oceans.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Mount Everest.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Controversies.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Technology and Space.

–   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review Final: Statistics and Politics.

–   Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

gieldanieruchomosci24.com

AddThis Feed Button


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