Himalaya Spring 2017: Kilian Jornet Moves Up Speed Record Attempt as Chinese Play Politics with Permits.

Autor : Kraig Becker

As expected, the spring 2017 Himalayan climbing season is delivering all kinds of interesting stories and plot lines to follow. In addition to a record number of climbers on Everest, there are plenty of other expeditions to follow throughout the region. But just as many teams are getting settled into their respective base camps in the mountains, the Chinese have begun imposing permit restrictions that are causing some climbers to rethink their plans and make last minute adjustments to their schedules.

ExWeb has posted more details on the latest move by the Chinese government to impose restrictions on climbing permits in Tibet. In a nutshell, the authorities on that side of the Himalaya have announced that there will be no post-monsoon permits issued for Everest or Shishpangma this year, and only a limited number for Cho Oyu. In addition, the government is also refusing permits to any climber who has visited Pakistan in the past three years as well, causing a number of teams to alter their intended plans for this spring.

We already knew that Kilian Jornet has moved his speed record attempt to this spring, where he’ll have to contend with more crowds, and now we know why. Last year, Jornet went to Everest in the late-summer/early-fall, but ended up being turned back due to poor weather conditions. It was expected that he would probably do the same this year, as the mountain is all but deserted during those months. But, since the Chinese won’t be issuing permits for that timeframe, the mountain runner is now forced to attempt his speed record in the spring instead.

ExWeb is reporting that the change in permitting has also had an impact on climbers Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg, who were planning to attempt a new route on Cho Oyu. Both men visited Pakistan last year however, so neither is allowed to enter Tibet. Instead, they’ll now go to Annapurna in Nepal and attempt a seldom climbed route on that mountain with partners Louis Rousseau and Rick Allen.

All across the Himalaya other teams are now arriving in BC. In addition to large numbers trickling into Base Camp on Everest, others are now getting settled on Annapurna, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, and Kangchenjunga. Most have been acclimatizing in the Khumbu Valley or on smaller peaks already, and thus are arriving in good shape to start their first rotations. It won’t be long now and we’ll start to receive word of teams moving up as they begin building their high camps, fixing ropes, and generally becoming accustomed to the altitude.

Weather is already playing a part early in the season. Reports indicate that high winds have been common so far, particularly on Everest, Lhotse, and Annapurna. But, that is not unusual for this time of year, and things tend to calm down a lot as the season progresses. Right now, we’re about a month away from major summit bids, give or take a week. The plan moving forward will be to slowly acclimate to the conditions and begin preparing for the challenges ahead.

More to report soon.

* source: – Himalaya Spring 2017: Kilian Jornet Moves Up Speed Record Attempt as Chinese Play Politics with Permits

** see also: – Adam Bielecki planuje wytyczyć nową drogę na Cho Oyu.

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Himalaya Spring 2017: Record Year on Everest Confirmed.

Autor : Kraig Becker

In the months leading up to the start of the spring climbing season in the Himalaya there was a lot of speculation that it would be a record-setting year throughout the region, but on Everest in particular. After two tragic and incredibly bad seasons in 2014 and 2015, last year marked a triumphant return to form in Nepal. Now, more climbers than ever are on their way to the world’s highest peak, and of course that is sparking some serious concerns.

According to an article in The Himalayan Times, 41 expeditions from 44 countries have applied for permits to climb Everest this year, which adds up to 376 foreign climbers on the mountain, with more expected to come. That alone doesn’t sound too high when you consider about 550+ summited last season. But, as Alan Arnette points out, those are just the foreign climbers, and when you factor in the Sherpa support teams, the number actually rises to about 730 in total.

Alan also says that approximately 200 climbers will be on Lhotse this season as well, which will add to the congestion on the route up. Everest and Lhotse share much of the same route, only splitting off in opposite directions as the teams near the top. That route will be extremely crowded come mid-May, when summit bids traditionally begin. So much so, that current estimates are at about 1000 climbers in the Khumbu Icefall and climbing in the days ahead.

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Himalaya Spring 2017: Ueli Steck Shares Everest-Lhotse Traverse Plans.

Autor : Kraig Becker

One of the expeditions that we’ll be keeping a close eye on this spring is Ueli Steck’s attempt to summit both Everest and Lhotse in a single push. As most of you probably already know, the two mountains stand next to one another, and are joined by a single long and difficult ridge that sits above 8000 meters (26,246 ft). That means that any climber attempting the double summit will be above the so called “death zone” for an extended period of time, although Steck has shown his ability to move quickly and tolerate the challenges of thin are at altitude in the past.

In a nutshell, here is Ueli’s plan. The Swiss climber has already done some acclimatization in Nepal this winter, and has been preparing int he Alps too. But, he’ll still have to allow his body to adjust to the altitude before he begin the climb. To that end, he’ll depart for Kathmandu this Saturday, April 8. After handling some logistics in the city and finishing his gear prep, he’ll then head out to the Khumbu Valley to being the trek to Base Camp.

Once he is fully acclimatized and ready to begin the traverse, Ueli will first depart BC for Camp 1 just like everyone else. He’ll make his way up the Hornbein Couloir on his way to the summit of Everest, before descending back down to the South Col at 8000 meters. From there he’ll traverse the ridge between Everest and Lhotse and climb another couloir along Denis Urubko’s route before approaching the 8511 meter (27,923 ft) summit of Lhotse. From there, he’ll descend along the standard route to Camp 2 for rest, before crossing the Khumbu Icefall and returning to Base Camp.

* source: –  Himalaya Spring 2017: Ueli Steck Shares Everest-Lhotse Traverse Plans

** see also –  Winter Climbs 2017: Messner Visits Txikon in Base Camp on Everest.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /29/ – Week in Review.

Who’d have thought it? The first Everest fall summits in four years “It’s a good thing my mom isn’t here watching,” quipped the polar skier from C4 on Everest South Col. But October 15 at 12:30PM Eric Larsen plus Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years. The Terramar sponsored expedition concluded Larsen’s quest to reach the “Three Poles” in record time.

Serial Everest summiteer lost on Baruntse The loss of Chhewang Nima Sherpa put a sad end to the climbing autumn season, wrapped up in a special report by Ang Tshering Sherpa. 19x Everest summiter Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche while fixing ropes on Baruntse upper sections.

Marty Schmidt’s “shortest Himalaya expedition ever” Marty cut his solo 4-day Lhotse attempt short in order to guide a client on Ama Dablam.

Jordises out of Lhotse Spanish “K2 pirates” Corominas and Tosas finally threw in the towel on Lhotse, due to dangerous conditions.

Shisha Pangma South Koreans Chang-Ho Kim, 41, and Sung-Ho Suh summited Shisha Pangma at 2:15PM on October 14, after climbing the British route on the peak’s south side. Chang-Ho Kim claims Shisha as his twelfth 8000er without supplementary O2; Sung-Ho Kim his tenth.

Cho Oyu summit mysteries German Ralf Arnold told ExplorersWeb he was the first Cho Oyu summiteer of the season, topping out October 1, 2010 at 10:30AM in a 15 hours roundtrip from C2. An October 7 Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean Adrian Sanchez was questioned after the alleged summit picture turned out shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez.

Dhaulagiri Search parties found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche, buried in snow at about 5,000 meters on Dhaula.

Manaslu Together with a Japanese climber and his two Sherpas, Mexican couple Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reached Manaslu summit sans O2 at 2:40PM, local time on October 1, some time after the HiMex and Carlos Pauner’s groups. “We were the last to summit that day,” Badia debriefed back in Kathmandu.

Lukla plane crash No one was hurt in the plane crash at Lukla airport. “Apparently, his brakes failed and the plane crashed into the wall at the end of the runway, damaging the nose,” SummitClimb reported.

Blind Everest summiteer Erik Weihenmayer led a team of war-battered soldiers to the top of the 20,075-foot Lobuche on October 13.

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) was topped out on October 8 by Dutch Dick Valk, Kaji Sherpa and expedition leader Paul Boslooper.

Mustang 6000ers ski “When I broke my ankle on May 1 last spring, I was at 17,600 feet on Baruntse,” Ben Clark reminded ExplorersWeb. Baruntse will lay on the shelf until Spring 2012; right now Ben and mates are back in Nepal to climb and ski Saribung (6000m) in Mustang province.

Garhwal Himalaya: Sathopanth casualties In a debrief from Satopanth (7,075m), Arun Mahajal reported to ExplorersWeb unseasonably bad weather in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent. There was loss of life in the Himalayas as well as in the lowlands due to landslides and flooding. A small group of trekkers from Calcutta were trapped in a storm, a female member in a six-person Austrian team fell down a ravine during her Sathopanth ascent.

Tengkang Poche — have you seen Alexey and Svetlana? Russian climbers Alexey Gorbatenkov and Svetlana Gutsalo planned to climb Tengkang Poche (6,500m) by the end of September. Scheduled to fly home from KTM on October 7 there has been no word since. Anyone having met them on the mountain, in Thame, Namche or anywhere in the Khumbu valley please contact ExplorersWeb and/or Lena at RussianClimb.com. The peak is not far from Thame village, in the Khumbu region.

Piolet d’Or Asia Park Young-Seok, Um Hong-Gil and Kim Chang-Ho were not there; Miss Oh Eun-Sun sat away from her sponsors. Nevertheless, a jury in Korea headed by Kazakh Denis Urubko selected Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama the winners of the fifth “Les Piolets d’Or Asia” for their new route on Canada’s Mt. Logan (5,900m). The first Asia Achievement Award went to the late Mr. Tstuneo Hasegawa while Ja-In Kim received the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ and the ‘Silver Shoes’ went to Hee-yong Park in the rock-climbing category.

Pakistan: 2011 climbing fees, Alpine Club elections Veteran mountaineer Lt. Col. Manzoor Hussain (retired), has been unanimously elected as President of the ACP for the next three-year term during the Club’s Annual General Meeting held at Pakistan Sports Complex on October 17, 2010. Climbing fees for 2011 are out — small increase has been unavoidable.

Erden Eruc Around-n-Over 100+ days on the Indian Ocean For piracy protection, lonely rower Erden Eruc is currently escorted by a Turkisk naval ship towards mainland Africa. As part of his true world circumnavigation, Eruc is well on his way to become the first rower to cross the Indian ocean mainland to mainland.

ExWeb’s interview with Ousland A few hundred people greeted Ousland and Thorleifsson as they sailed in to the Fram Museum in Oslo. Explorersweb Jon Amtrup caught up with Ousland for an interview about the recent North Pole circle; circumnavigating the North Pole in one season.

ExWeb interview with Meagan McGrath Meagan spoke to ExWeb about the Antarctic crevasse fall and her recent experience on K2.

ExWeb interview with Sean Burch “Tougher than any 8000 peak I have done!” Sean told ExWeb after recently crossing Nepal in a record 49 days, 19 days faster than the previous record set by Rosie Swale Pope 2003.

ExWeb interview with Paul Landry Antarctica season kicking off, seasoned polar guide Paul Landry told ExplorersWeb about the challenges of the different ski/kite routes he has done on Antarctica, why teams would choose one route above the other, what his favorite route is and about future plans.

ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael American Todd Carmichael attempted a 400 mile (643.7 km) trek in 18.5 days through Death Valley in the USA; hauling 450 pounds of water (33 gallons / 125 liters), food and gear. It ended in equipment failure far too early for Todd, but he learnt some very important lessons for his next attempt. “There is only one way to know if something is possible – and that is to try it,” he told ExWeb.

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Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Himalaya Fall 2010: Season Finally Ends On Lhotse.

Author : Kraig Becker.

The Fall Himalayan season has been slowly crawling towards the finish line for a few weeks now. While most of the mountains have been deserted for awhile, there have been a few lingering climbers hoping beyond hope that they would get an opportunity to summit. It seems for two of them, that hope has now been dashed.

ExWeb is reporting that the two Jordis, Corominas and Tosas, have now called it quits on Lhotse. The pair of Spaniards were attempting to climb along the South Face, but have been stymied by the conditions there, which included poor weather and lots of snow. While they waited, the two men had a go at the Lhotse Shar, and have made two separate bids up the face. But the conditions have been slow to improve and now high winds near the summit it have made any further attempts to climb the mountain nearly impossible. Because of these ongoing issues, they’ve elected to go home for the year.

Meanwhile, Marty Schmidt, who had been attempting a solo, alpine style attempt on Lhotse, gave up his attempt on that mountain in order to guide a client up Ama Dablam. Turns out that expedition isn’t happening either, as when Marty joined his companion in the Khumbu Valley, the client revealed that he wasn’t ready to make the climb and had decided to go home instead. With no interest in climbing Ama Dablam himself, Marty is now heading home as well.

Finally, ExWeb is also reporting that Alpine Ascents, one of the companies that Chhewang Nima Sherpa worked with while guiding in the Himalaya, has set up a checking account to accept donations to help support his family, for which is was the sole provider. The 19-time Everest summitteer went missing last weekend when an avalanche swept him off of Baruntse. Search and rescue operations were ceased after it was determiend that no one could have survived the accident. To make a donation to the fund, ExWeb says checks can be made payable to: “FBO Chhewang Nima Sherpa” and can be mailed to: Alpine Ascents International at 109 West Mercer St. Seattle, WA 98119. Contact AA for further details.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

Everest Climbing Legend Missing On Baruntse.

Himalaya Fall 2010: More From Lhotse.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Lhotse Update!

Everest 2011 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Shisha Pangma and Manaslu summit reports.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest fall season summits and Cho Oyu too.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Summits Everest, Completes Save The Poles Expedition!

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen In Camp 3, High Winds Predicted For Summit Day.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen Begins Summit Push On Everest.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu update, Pauner about Manaslu summit, Everest C4, Lama Geshe recovering.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

* Related Links :

Everest Summit Story – Part 1.

Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Jerzy Kukuczka – 21 rocznica śmierci najsławniejszego polskiego himalaisty.

Dziś przypada 21 rocznica śmierci Jerzego Kukuczki

– najsławniejszego polskiego himalaisty.

Był WIELKI w czasach gdy w Polsce, jego ojczyźnie, wszystko było małe.. gdy walczyło się z komuną.. gdy walczyło się o chleb dnia powszedniego.. ON wbrew wszystkiemu zdobywał szczyty i często mieszkał na Dachu Świata.. za swą miłość do gór zapłacił wielka cenę.. zapłacił swoim życiem!!!!…

Jerzy Kukuczka – (24 marca 1948 – 24 października 1989) urodzony w Katowicach polski alpinista i himalaista, kukuczka m1jako drugi człowiek na Ziemi zdobył Koronę Himalajów i Karakorum – wszystkie 14 szczytów o wysokości ponad 8 tysięcy metrów, (pierwszy był Reinhold Messner, któremu zajęło to 16 lat, Kukuczce zaledwie 8).Spośród 14 ośmiotysięczników, które zdobył w latach 1979-1987na 11 z nich wszedł nowymi drogami (poza swoim pierwszym ośmiotysięcznikiem wspinał się albo w ekstremalnie ciężkich warunkach zimą albo nowymi trasami), 5-krotnie w stylu alpejskim, na 4 – po raz pierwszy zimą, na 1 szczyt samotnie – żaden inny zdobywca14 ośmiotysięczników nie może pochwalić się takim bilansem. Dokonał rzeczy niebywałej – w ciągu niespełna półtora roku (21 stycznia 1985 r.– 18 lipca 1986 r.) zdobył pięć ośmiotysięczników, z czego aż trzy zimą, na dwóch zaś, także na K2, wytyczył nowe, niezwykle trudne drogi.Wolno aklimatyzował się, za to słynął z ogromnej wytrzymałości psychicznej i fizycznej. Jego partnerami byli m.in. Wojciech Kurtyka, Artur Hajzer oraz Ryszard Pawłowski.

W 1988 na Igrzyskach Olimpijskich w Calgary wraz z Reinholdem Messnerem nagrodzony srebrnym medalem olimpijskim. Reinhold Messner odmówił przyjęcia medalu uzasadniając swój gest tym,że uważa alpinizm za twórczość, a nie rywalizację. Kukuczka przyjął medal, ponieważ w wyczynowym wspinaniu widział sportowe wartości co niejednokrotnie podkreślał. “W alpinizmie, jak w szachach – mówił -jest miejsce na swego rodzaju twórczość i sportową rywalizację. Gdyby jej zabrakło, być może nigdy bym się nie wspinał.” “Mnie nie wystarczy być tylko w górach – dodał później – nie wystarczy być na wyprawie.Uważam, że jeżeli się podchodzi pod górę, to z jakimś celem, a tym celem jest wejść na tę górę.” Poczta Polska wydała okolicznościowy znaczek, który został zaprojektowany przez J.Konarzewskiego. Na znaczku można zobaczyć panoramę Himalajów, podobiznę Kukuczki i jego olimpijskiego medalu.

Zginął na wysokości 8 300 metrów 24 października 1989 podczas wejścia na Lhotse nową drogą przez słynną, niezdobytą wówczas południową ścianę. Szczyt atakował wspólnie z Ryszardem Pawłowskim. Kukuczka wspinał się jako pierwszy i tuż przed granią szczytową odpadł. Lina nie wytrzymując obciążenia, pękła, a wspinacz spadł w przepaść. Po odnalezieniu ciała pochowano go w lodowej szczelinie, nieopodal miejsca upadku. Tablica pamiątkowa została umieszczona w Chukung nieopodal południowej ściany Lhotse , a także na Symbolicznym Cmentarzu Ofiar Tatr pod Osterwą.

Kukuczka tablica Chukung Pamiątkowa tablica nieopodal Chukung.

„Od śmierci w dolinach zachowaj nas Panie” – J. Kukuczka

* Sylwetka himalaisty przedstawiona jest na :

Jerzy Kukuczka – famous Polish climber /Version polish and english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend part 1. /Version english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend part 2. /Version english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend part 3. /Version english/

Jerzy Kukuczka – the ultimate legend, part 4, final. /Version english/

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Odsłonięto czorten Kukuczki

Najpierw za tych co w górach zostali na zawsze – uczestnicy wyprawy HiMalajska Wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego – Dhaulagiri 2008 odsłonili czorten Kukuczki.

Uczestnicy wyprawy: Artur Hajzer i Robert Szymczak, przebywający w rejonie Khumbu ( kwiecień 2008r) w ramach aklimatyzacji przed zasadniczą wspinaczką na Dhaulagiri dokonali odsłonięcia czortenu pamięci trzech polskich himalaistów, którzy zginęli podczas polskich wypraw na esktremalnie trudną, legendarną południową ścianę Lhotse (8511 m n.p.m.)

Byli to:

– Rafał Chołda, który jesienią 1985 roku, podczas odwrotu z nieudanego ataku szczytowego w zesple z J.Kukuczką i R.Pawłowskim odpadł od ściany w niezaporęczowanym terenie śnieżno – skalnym na wysokości 8000 m. Spadł w kilkukilometrową przepaść i zginął na miejscu.

– Czesław Jakiel, lekarz wyprawy z jesieni 1987 roku, który zginął raniony podmuchem fali uderzeniowej lawiny seraków na lodowcu na wysokości 5300 m w czasie podejścia do obozu I

– Jerzy Kukuczka, polski bohater narodowy, określany przez alpinistów z całego świata i specjalistyczne media jako “najlepszy himalaista wszechczasów”, który jesienią 1989 roku odpadł od ściany na wysokoći 8200 m i spadł do podnóża ściany ponosząc śmierć na miejscu. Jego partnerem był R.Pawłowski. Łącząca ich lina nie wytrzymała impetu upadku i pękła.

czorten-kukuczkiCzorten Kukuczki – Himalaje 2008

Południowa ściana Lhotse (8511 m n.p.m.) została zdobyta do tej pory tylko raz – w 1991 roku przez ekspedycję rosyjską. Atakowana była przez kilkanaście wypraw w tym 4 zespoły polskie. Mierzyli się z nia najlepsi himalaiści, w tym wyprawa kierowana przez Reinholda Messnera z udziałem sławnego alpejczyka Christopha Profita. Najwyżej wspinał się polski zespół: A.Hajzer i K.Wielicki, który w 1987 roku osiagnął wysokość 8300 m – ten fragment ściany to największe trudności techniczne jakie pokonał człowiek na tej wysokości. Trudny, nieplanowany biwak w sztormie, w dziupli lodowej zmusił himalaistów do odwrotu.

Czorten upamiętniający himalaistów, od razu nazwany czortenem KUKUCZKI, zbudowała dzięki funduszom Fundacji Kukuczki, Fundacji Wspierania Polskiego Himalaizmu im. Jerzego Kukuczki agencja Mountain Tribes Babu Sherpy za kwotę ok. 5000zł na przełomie lutego i marca 2008 roku w miejscu wskazanym w styczniu przez K.Wielickiego; u wejścia do wsi Chuckung u podnóża południowej ściany Lhotse, gdzie miały miejsce wszystkie trzy wypadki. Odsłonięcia w dniu 22 marca dokonali Artur Hajzer i Robert Szymczak, którzy przebywali w tym rejonie w ramach przygotowań do “HiMalajskiej Wyprawy – Dhaulagiri 2008″.

Blisko dwu godzinne modły w obrządku buddyjskim odprawił Lama ze świątyni w Pangboche, złożono ofiare, rozwieszono modlitewne chorągiewki a następnie po chrześcijańsku wygłoszono słowo boże i w ciszy odmówiono modlitwę. W uroczystości udział brała grupa turytów z Polski. Pod czortenem ułożono świeczkę i kwiaty przekazane przez rodzinę Jerzego Kukuczki.

Poniżej zdjęcia z uroczystości odsłonięcia czortenu Kukuczki.

czorten-kukuczki-2

czorten-kukuczki-4

czorten-kukuczki-3

czorten-kukuczki-1

Po uroczystościach Artur Hajzer powiedział:

– Rafał Chołda byl moim jedynym prawdziwym przyjacielem i partnerem od liny, z którym stawiałem pierwsze kroki w górach; miałem też honor wejść na cztery szczyty ośmiotysięczne z Jurkiem Kukuczką; południowej ścianie Lhotse poświęciłem 3 sezony (w sumie swoją “karierę”), spędziłem w niej kilkadziesiąt dni – chwile przy czortenie poruszyły mnie do głębi – wracając pamięcią do tamtych czasów i tamtych wielkich ludzi budzi się we mnie tylko żal.

Wszystkie kolejne grupy turystów z Polski prosimy o dowieszanie nowych chorągiewek modlitewnych i usuwanie starych, tych zniszczonych lub wypłowiałych.

poludniowa-sciana-lhotse-new1

Na zdjęciu powyżej /klikniecie 2 razy powiększa zdjęcie/ widoczna jest południowa ściana Lhotse. Oznaczono na nim :

– czerwona linia – droga polska przez płd. ścianę Lhotse

– pkt. fioletowy – szczyt główny

– pkt. niebieski – miejsce odpadnięcia Jerzego Kukuczki

– pkt. żółty – miejsce odpadnięcia Rafała Chołdy

– pkt. zielony – miejsce śmierci Czesława Jakiela

– pkt. pamarańczowy – bariera seraków, która spadła i zabiła Czesława Jakiela

– pkt. czarny – miejsce biwaku A.Hajzera i K.Wielickiego; najwyżej osiągnięty punkt (8300 m n.p.m.)

* wszystkie posty o Kukuczce : – Jerzy Kukuczka

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya Fall 2010: More From Lhotse.

Author : Kraig Becker.

Update: ExWeb is now reporting that Marty has abandoned his attempt on Lhotse due to high winds and dangerous conditions. He’ll now descend back to BC and proceed to Ama Dablam, where he’ll guide a client up the mountain.

We have a bit more information on what’s happening on Lhotse at the moment as three climbers make very different attempts on the mountain amidst bad weather conditions. It seems things are deteriorating quickly in the Himalaya, and these men want to take advantage of one last window to see if they can summit.

According to ExWeb’s latest reports on the mountain, Marty Schmidt has proceed up to the Western Cwm where he evaluating the conditions on the Lhotse face today. He says that he has three different weather reports, each indicating that wind and snow are in the forecast, it’s just a matter of when they’ll arrive. Because of those reports, he was hoping to evaluate his position this morning (local time) and decide if he could have a go at the summit along the normal route. He’s been making a solo, alpine style ascent, which has put him into a good position to summit provided the conditions are right.

Meanwhile, the Spaniards, Jordi Corominas and Jordi Tosas, who are climbing along the South Face of Lhotse, are reportedly headed up the mountain today as well. They’re also hoping to take advantage of the proposed weather window, although their home team reports that there is a lot of snow high on the mountain which may make it impossible to reach the summit along their proposed route.

Stay tuned for updates. It seems that we’ll know if these bold climbers have a chance to summit in the next day or two.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

Himalaya Fall 2010: Lhotse Update!

Everest 2011 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Shisha Pangma and Manaslu summit reports.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Solo Summit Bid On Lhotse.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest fall season summits and Cho Oyu too.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Summits Everest, Completes Save The Poles Expedition!

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen In Camp 3, High Winds Predicted For Summit Day.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Eric Larsen Begins Summit Push On Everest.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu update, Pauner about Manaslu summit, Everest C4, Lama Geshe recovering.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche on Dhaulagiri – three Japanese climbers and one Sherpa missing.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Avalanche May End Season On Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Cho Oyu summit push take 2, Manaslu teams ready.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Summit plans buried in the snow.

Himalaya Fall 2010: Climbers Injured In Avalanche on Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest summit push plans, TMA team deserts Cho Oyu.

Himalaya 2010 wrap-up: Everest sieged from both flanks, Cho Oyu C2, Manaslu C1.

Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

* Related Links :

Everest Summit Story – Part 1.

Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.

Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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