37th anniversary of the first Everest winter ascent.

February 17, 1980 – First winter ascent by Andrzej Zawada’s team from Poland: Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki.

This was also the first winter summit of any of the world’s fourteen 8000 metre peaks.

Completed in 1980 by a team of phenomenally rugged Polish climbers, this ascent was led by … Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reached the summit on February 17.

wielicki-cichy
Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy celebrate winning Mount Everest in Winter.

You can see ..

Krzysztof Wielicki – detailed diary of First winter ascent of Mount Everest, Please click the links below :

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

** I invite you to relationships with expeditions Polish mountaineers.

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Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII summiteers back in BC, GI team at work on a new route.

(By Angela Benavides) Denis Urubko just checked in from Gasherbrum’s BC. The team is safely back after bagging the first winter 8000er summit in Pakistan – but only by sheer luck, the Kazakh said.

Gerfried, Louis and Alex will set off towards a new route on Hidden Peak’s south face as soon as weather conditions permit.

Winter GII: Alive by miracle

The GII winter pioneers are safe and sound in BC after an extremely tough descent. Crossing the Gasherbrum glacier between C1 and BC alone took them most part of the day. According to the first comments, yesterday was even worse though.

“We’re in BC – all alive and fine – simply luck,” Denis texted his wife minutes ago. However, Urubko’s laconic words barely illustrate what it really took to descend from the summit.

At arrival, Simone described a nightmarish experience to the wide-eyed Gerfried, Louis and Alex.

“They said descending was much worse than the summit climb,” Alex Txikon told Jorge Chueca of Barrabes.com over sat-phone. “Relentless avalanches falling from G5 and G6 came at them in all directions – Simone swears it was only by miracle that none swept them off. They showed us some summit pics in such extreme col conditions that – God – they’re scary!”

Further reports by the climbers themselves, details and images are expected through the weekend – after the men get some well deserved rest.

GI team on a new route on the south side

Meanwhile Gerfried Göschl, Louis Rousseau and Alex Txikon have also made the best of their day. Taking  advantage of slihgtly better conditions today, they set off from BC early this morning and found a line to the base of GI’s south face – the chosen flank to open a new route. “It took us just 3 hours to reach the base of the wall so, since we were strong and had plenty of time, got to work and fixed the first 200 meters towards our planned C1,” Alex was happy to report. The three men then returned to BC, just in time to greet Simone, Denis and Cory.

As for the planned new route, Txikon ponders its relative safety, but also the extra motivation brought by the chance to forge a new line on a Karakoram winter 8000er. “The targeted line is extremely avalanche-prone in summer, but safer this time of the year,” Txikon said yesterday.

“Also, this way we will avoid the dangerous crossing of Gasherbrum glacier (necessary on the way to GI and GII normal routes). We are not going strictly alpine-style, but will try to climb as light and fast as possible,” Alex added. “It’s a lesson we’ve learned from Simone & Co. ”

Team leader gerfried Göschl had been studying GI’s topo for possible new lines, but the final decision has been made public only now.

Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:

Broad Peak

Polish Winter Broad Peak team website

GII

TNF journal
Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog

GI

Gerfried Göschl
Gerfried’s SPOT tracking
Louis Rousseau
Alex Txikon

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII winter summiteers descending in the storm – stop for the night in C1.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Climbers safely back in C3.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C3 on GII summit push, Thefts in BC, Polish climber to be evacuated.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Teams unite – All Polish climbers on BP, GI climbers enroute.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C1 ready on BP, cache near C1 on GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Polish secret on Nanga, news from GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

gieldanieruchomosci24.com

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Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII winter summiteers descending in the storm – stop for the night in C1.

(By Angela Benavides) GII winter pioneers Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards were unable to reach BC today due to a major storm hitting the mountain. They have however reached safely C1 for the night, according to RussianClimb.

GI team members Gerfried, Louis and Alex are on watch in Base Camp, ready to help the descending climbers if needed.

“Extremely strong storm,” Denis texted to his wife at 3:00pm Pakistan time today. “Very tough descent. We are in the tent in C1, drinking tea. We have no energy, nor time to go any further down – we are going to spent the night here. BC tomorrow. We’re OK.”

Descent in the storm

The weather had turned for the worse immediately after the climbers topped-out – shortly after 11.30am, local time yesterday; by the time they reach their tent in high camp, they were wrapped in a full-force gale. According to forecasts, the storm will hit the area yet for some days.

Meanwhile in Base Camp, the Winter GI ABC (Austrian-Basque-Canadian) team members have delayed their first trip up the mountain until Simone, Denis and Cory arrive. “We want to greet the guys as they deserve, make sure they reach safe ground and provide help if necessary,” Alex Txikon told his home team.

“What they’ve dome is plainly amazing – and showed us the way,” Alex added. “We too must take the chance and launch a fast, light attempt on ‘our’ mountain asap.” The team plan to set off from BC on Friday.

Weather notes from Broad Peak

The Polish team on neighboring Broad Peak is also suffering the hurricane-force winds and driving snow.

“Winds reached 120 km/h last night,” member Rafal Fronia reported from BC earlier today. “Robert and Krzysiu were forced back to Base Camp. Forecast is crystal clear: the storm will go on for at least some more days, so that we’ll have to delay all plans to pitch C3. Instead, two people is setting off from BC in order to dig out the ropes, currently buried in snow and ice.”

Simone: Speed is the key

Upon arrival in C3 yesterday after the summit, Simone had some time (and stamina) left, to report on the final climb and to evaluate the team’s success. “We topped-out at 11:38am,local time, after eight exhausting hours from C3 (at 6,850m). Just as predicted, the sun accompanied us from 7,500m, but the 200 meters on the summit pyramid took the best of us,” said Moro.

“I believe the key to success, besides an accurate weather forecast, was speed,” Simone stated. “The fast climb and summit bid paid off, just like it had worked on Makalu (where we summited after just 19 days on the mountain).”

Some stats for the record

Gasherbrum II is the first 8000er in Pakistan’s Karakoram to be summited in winter. Besides, Brazilian Rodrigo Granzotto has submitted some more stats about the mountain and the recent summiteers:

“Simone’s is the first winter expedition to Gasherbrum II; the peak had not been attempted before in wintertime,” Rodrigo noted. “G2 is the second 8000er for Cory (after Lhotse last year) and the seventh 8000er for Simone. Denis now has 19 main 8000ers summited.”

“Also, Italian Simone Moro is now the undisputed leader in winter, the only climber in history who has bagged three 8000ers completely in winter (all his expedition completely took place within calendar winter),” Rodrigo added.

Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:

Broad Peak

Polish Winter Broad Peak team website

GII

TNF journal
Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog

GI

Gerfried Göschl
Gerfried’s SPOT tracking
Louis Roussea
Alex Txikon

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Climbers safely back in C3.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C3 on GII summit push, Thefts in BC, Polish climber to be evacuated.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Teams unite – All Polish climbers on BP, GI climbers enroute.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C1 ready on BP, cache near C1 on GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Polish secret on Nanga, news from GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

gieldanieruchomosci24.com

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Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Climbers safely back in C3.

(Angela Benavides) Finally, there’s further good news from Gasherbrum II: “We’ve found our tent in this terrible storm. That’s all. Tomorrow descent to BC. Thanks for the support,” Denis Urubko has just texted.

Denis’ SMS was sent at around 4.00pm, Pakistan time – almost five hours after the Kazakh climber, together with Italian Simone Moro and Canadian Cory Richards achieved the first winter summit ever on a Pakistan 8000er.

The team reached the top in extremely tough conditions according to Alex Txikon, currently in BC. Alex explained that the weather had turned for the worse while the climbers where still on their way up. Nevertheless, the three men reached the top of GII around 11.45am, local time, and started descending in the storm.

Further details are expected as soon as the climbers safely reach back Base Camp.

History in the making

Besides the first Pakistan 8000er winter summit ever achieved, this is Simone’s third winter 8000er first after Shisha Pangma and Makalu, and Denis’ second (Simone and him teamed up on Makalu, which they summited on Feb 9, 2009). Cory Richards, already seasoned in Nepal’s winter 6000ers, has bagged his first 8000er in the coldest time of the year.

Links to Winter GII summiteers’ websites:

TNF journal
Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C3 on GII summit push, Thefts in BC, Polish climber to be evacuated.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Teams unite – All Polish climbers on BP, GI climbers enroute.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C1 ready on BP, cache near C1 on GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Polish secret on Nanga, news from GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

gieldanieruchomosci24.com

AddThis Feed Button


Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C3 on GII summit push, Thefts in BC, Polish climber to be evacuated.

(Angela Benavides) Attention is on GII, where Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards are pushing for the peak’s first winter ascent. Denis Urubko emailed Lena Laletina from C3 this morning, reporting slightly better conditions and the team ready to attempt the summit tomorrow.

Yesterday, Denis and Simone checked in over SMS from C2 at 6,500m. Both reported rough weather (wind and snowfall), but hoped on forecasts announcing an improvement today – which luckily proved right.

Update on other winter 8000ers

Aiming for winter GI Gerfried, Louis and Alex had a nasty surprise upon arrival in BC yesterday: part of the barrels which they had left stocked in October 2010 had been ravaged and some precious supplies were stolen.

Things are tough also on Broad Peak for Polish team member Arkadiusz Grzadziel, who yesterday showed symptoms of pulmonary embolism. After a first emergency airlift failed yesterday – the chopper was grounded due to bad conditions – hopefully the sick climber will be evacuated today. Update: Arkadiusz was successfully evacuated to hospital in Skardu.

Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:

Broad Peak

Polish Winter Broad Peak team website

GII

TNF journal
Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog

GI

Gerfried Göschl
Gerfried’s SPOT tracking
Louis Rousseau
Alex Txikon

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Teams unite – All Polish climbers on BP, GI climbers enroute.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C1 ready on BP, cache near C1 on GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Polish secret on Nanga, news from GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

gieldanieruchomosci24.com

AddThis Feed Button


Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15.

Winter expedition starts! The aim of the expedition is the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander in Karakorum – the 12th peak of the world – Broak Peak 8,047 m. The expedition is going to operate from December 2010 to March 2011 and climb via a route of the first conquerors, from the West, from Goldwin-Austen Glacier in the Baltoro region.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak – route.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Szymczak, Rafał . Artur HajzerFronia, Jarosław Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grządziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Robert Kaźmierski, Jerzy Natkański and Krzysztof Starek.

News from Friday – January 28, 2011.

Our plan is working – Kaziu Kaźmierski, Jarek Gawrysiak and Rafał Fronia are already in camp 2, while Artur Hajzer, Piotr Snopczyński and Marcin Kaczkan are in camp 1. The rest is in the base camp.

News from winter expedition to Broad Peak – Thursday, January 27.

Today Szymczak, Starek and Grządziel have gone from camp 1 /c1/ to camp 2 /c2/. They have made a platform and put up tents. Tomorrow they are going to do some rigging and go back to the base camp /bc/.
Kaźmierski went from bc to camp 1 – he sleeps there. Tomorrow morning, i.e. on January 28, he sets off to camp 2.
Also tomorrow, Fronia and Gawrysiak are setting off from the base camp to c2, while Hajzer, Snopczyński and Kaczkan are going to c1.

Plans for the next days:
January 29, Fronia, Gawrysiak and Kaźmierski are going to rig the route above camp 2 and go back to the base camp. Simultaneously, Hajzer, Snopczyński and Kaczkan are going to c2.
January 30, Hajzer, Snopczyki and Kaczkan are going to rig above c2 and go down to the base camp.
January 31 – Ali and Raza rig to camp 2, dig and prepare a platform for c3.

The weather is good. There is no Jetstream! Wind is blowing at 20 to 30 km/h. Great conditions for a summit attempt. Unusual winter. Karl Gabl hasn’t observed similar conditions for 6 years. Unfortunately, there is one BUT. It’s extremely cold. Gabl hasn’t observed here, at 8,000 m, temperature falling to -50 degrees Celsius. Up to now, -30 degrees Celsius at night in the base camp is a norm. All heating systems are working well: gas heaters and kerosene heater. Additionally, double mess tent is working out – it doesn’t let through exhaust fumes – so, we heat the threshold only with one burner.
Jarek got through with electronics – but there is no coverage. Twice a day a transmission group goes down to 400 m outside the base camp for transmission to a special satellite tent put up there permanently.

Artur Hajzer – expedition leader

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 14. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 13. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 12. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 10. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 9. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 8. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 7. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 6. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11 – Sponsorship offer.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 5. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 4. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 3. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

** see :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11 – cz.15.

Wieści z piątku 28.01.2011.

Gąsienica w działaniu – Kaziu Kaźmierski, Jarek Gawrysiak i Rafał Fronia są już w obozie 2 a Artur Hajzer, Piotr Snopczyński i Marcin Kaczkan w obozie 1. reszta w bazie.

Wieści z wyprawy Winter Broad Peak – czwartek 27 stycznia

Dziś z obozu 1 /c1 do obozu 2/c2 doszli: Szymczak, Starek, Grządziel. Zrobili platformę, postawili namiot. Jutro rano mają trochę zaporęczować i zjechać do bazy /bc/..
Z bc do c1 doszedł Kaźmierski – tam śpi. Jutro rano jutro tj. 28 stycznia rusza do c2. Jutro też z bazy do c2 rusza Fronia i Gawrysiak a Hajzer, Snopczynski, Kaczkan do c1.

Później zaplanowaliśmy tak:
29.01 Fronia, Gawrysiak, Kaźmierski poreczują powyżej obozu 2 i zjeżdżają do bazy .
W tym czasie Hajzer, Snopczyński, Kaczkan idą do c2
30.01 Hajzer, Snopczyński, Kaczkan poręczują powyżej c2 i zjeżdżają do bazy.
31.01 – Ali i Raza poręczują do c3 i kopią platformę pod c3.

Pogoda jest dobra….  Nie ma Jetstreamu ! Wiatry to 20/30 km na godzinę. Jest super na atak szczytowy. Nietypowa zima. Karl Gabl nie pamięta takiej od 6 lat odkąd obserwuje tu warunki. Jest jedno ALE. Jest rekordowo zimno. Gabl nie widział tu wcześniej na 8000 minus 50. Do tej pory minus 30 w bazie nocą to standard. Dobrze nam działają wszystkie systemy grzewcze: hitery gazowe i grzejnik kerosinowy. Poza tym podwójny namiot mesowy dobrze się sprawdza, nie puszcza spalin, więc w przedsionku dogrzewamy jednym palnikiem kuchennym. Jarek uporał się z elektroniką, ale zasięgu nie ma. Dwa razy dziennie grupa transmisyjna chodzi 400 m poza bazę na transmisje do specjalnie stojącego już tam na stałe namiotu satelitarnego.

Artur Hajzer – kierownik wyprawy
(Info dodał Marek Karnecki dnia 28.01.2011)

* Źródło: – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

** Zobacz też:

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

drytooling.com.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 14. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 14.

Winter expedition starts! The aim of the expedition is the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander in Karakorum – the 12th peak of the world – Broak Peak 8,047 m. The expedition is going to operate from December 2010 to March 2011 and climb via a route of the first conquerors, from the West, from Goldwin-Austen Glacier in the Baltoro region.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak – route.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Artur HajzerSzymczak, Rafał . Fronia, Jarosław Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grządziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Robert Kaźmierski, Jerzy Natkański and Krzysztof Starek.

Winter expedition to Broad Peak – account from Wednesday, January 26.

According to the plan, today Robert Szymczak, Arek Grządziel and Krzysiek Starek have reached camp 1 and they are going to stay there overnight.

The rest is in the base camp.

* See some new photos:

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11

Broad Peak – account dated on Tuesday, January 25, 2011 – short films.

Today Artur has reported:

“Jan 24 me and Kaczkan were in c1. Jan 26 a team incl. Szymczak, Starek and Grządziel sets off. Then, other teams in single file are going to follow – 4 in total; their task is to rig the route to c3. The last team is supposed to reach c3 at 7,150 m with ropes. That’s the plan. Every team goes more or less with heavy loads and plans a night’s rest in c1 and maybe in c2 (optionally). Apart from that, everything is fine. What hasn’t been working, now works.”

Artur Hajzer – expedition leader

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 13. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 12. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 10. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 9. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 8. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 7. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 6. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11 – Sponsorship offer.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 5. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 4. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 3. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

** see :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11 – cz.14.

Zimowa wyprawa na Broad Peak – relacja ze środy 26 stycznia.

Zgodnie z planem dziś Robert Szymczak, Arek Grządziel i Krzysiek Starek doszli do obozu 1 i tam nocują, reszta w bazie.

* powyżej są pokazane zdjęcia z C1 i C2.

Broad Peak – relacja z wtorku 25.01.2011.

Dziś Artur Hajzer przekazał:

“24.01 Ja i Kaczkan byliśmy w c1. 26.01 wychodzi zespół Szymczak, Starek, Grządziel. I potem ruchem gąsienicy kolejne zespoły – w sumie 4 – z zadaniem poręczowanie do c3. Ostatni zespół ma dojść z linami w miejsce c3 na 7150m. Taki plan. Każdy zespół idzie w miarę na ciężko z noclegiem w c1 i chyba też w c2 (opcjonalnie). Poza tym tu u nas wszystko gra. Co nie działało to działa.”

* zobacz też filmiki z pierwszej części posta

Artur Hajzer – kierownik wyprawy
(Info dodał Marek Karnecki dnia 26.01.2011)

* Źródło: – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

** Zobacz też:

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

drytooling.com.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button