On 3 February 1987, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.
Jerzy kukuczka – climbing season 1987
1987 — Annapurna I – first winter ascent
After his early November climb on Manaslu, Jurek and Artur Hajzer summited Annapurna North Face on February 3, 1987. Hajzer returned to the mountains with Kukuczka already in September that same year. That’s when they made a first ascent of the East Ridgeon Shisha Pangma (Summit on September 18, 1987).
* source: – http://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/3-jerzy-kukuczka
Artur Hajzer – Jerzy Kukuczka’s partner
When you look for a phrase to describe Artur Hajzer, one of the first that comes to mind is ‘Jurek Kukuczka’s partner.’ Even though their first expedition was not successful, after Lhotse Hajzer felt much more secure.
Artur Hajzer, Wanda Rutkiewicz and Jerzy Kukuczka, Annapurna 1987
“I started believing in myself. I realised that my first steps were analogous to what Jurek had been doing a few years back. Eventually, I felt convinced that the Lhotse failure had not determined it all and the next time – as proven by Jurek’s career – would be better,” Hajzer recalled years later. And it was better, together with Jerzy Kukuczka.
“How about going on an expedition with me? I need a partner. How about that?”
“I am all for it, on spec”, answered Elephant to Kukuś.
“It was very elevating to Artur, he was very pleased. Jurek Kukuczka offered Artur that if he had organised an expedition to Manaslu and a winter expedition to Annapurna, they would climb together. And so it happened, and that is the reason Artur decided not to go with us to climb K2 via the Magic Line route,” recalls Janusz Majer.
“The Manaslu (8,156m) expedition was the most difficult of all our – mine and Jurek’s – successful expeditions. It took place in autumn 1986. We were to attempt the south face of Annapurna (8,091m) in the same season,” wrote Hajzer. On 03 February 1987 they made their first winter ascent together to the summit of an eight-thousander.
Another expedition they went on together was a summer expedition to Shishapangma in August 1987, during which they established a new route on the western ridge. The same year, Artur made another attempt on the south face of Lhotse during an international expedition organised by Krzysztof Wielicki. The expedition was a failure. In 1988, he accompanied Jurek Kukuczka, this time ascending the west Annapurna via a new route. A year later he returned for the third time to the south face of Lhotse. That time, the international expedition was organised by the Kukuczka’s ‘greatest rival’ – Rainhold Messner.
“After that expedition I came to a conclusion that another attempt would be a waste of time,” Artur writes in Attack of Despair. That is why he did not join Kukuczka during his attempt.
“It was clear that Artur had equalled his master and his own ambition took the floor. He wanted to bring his own mountaineering projects to life,” recalls Janusz Majer.
….. more – Artur Hajzer – Ice Leader.
** see also:
– Jerzy Kukuczka – famous Polish climber /Version polish and english/
– Polish famous climbers – The golden decade of Polish Himalayan mountaineering.
– Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/
– Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/
– Polish winter expedition 1980 – First winter ascent of Everest, part 1
– Polish winter expedition 1980 – First winter ascent of Everest, part 2
– Polish winter expedition 1980 – First winter ascent of Everest, part 3
– Polish winter expedition 1980 – First winter ascent of Everest, part 4
… the first winter ascent of the south face of annapurna i, 1987-1988
– https://www.himalayanclub.org/…/the-first–winter–ascent-of-the-so…
Annapurna I : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost
– http://www.summitpost.org/annapurna-i/150258
Jerzy Kukuczka Ascents :
Alps
1973, 19 July – Aiguille du Moine. First polish ascent on Aureille-Fentren Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1973, 22 July – La Pell, Massiw Vercors. First polish ascent on Parish Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1973, 6 August – Mont Blanc, E Face. Major Route. Team: Beata Kozłowska, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Kurczab, Marek Łukaszewski.
1973, 12-14 August – Petit Dru, new route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1975, 3-4 August – Grandes Jorasses, N Face. New Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.
Filed under: Artur Hajzer, Climbers, Expedition, Historically exp-tions, Jerzy Kukuczka, Nepal, Polish Himalayas, Travel, winter expedition, wydarzenia | Tagged: Annapurna, Annapurna - First winter ascent, Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka | Leave a comment »
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