Himalaya Fall 2018: Update From Lhotse, More on Nanga Parbat, Not Done on Manaslu.

Despite major commercial operations wrapping up on Manaslu last week, the fall climbing season in the Himalaya appears to be far from over. In fact, following this past weekend, there is once again a lot to report from the big mountains, where some expeditions are only now truly ramping up.

We’ll start with an update from Lhotse, where Korean climber Hong Sung Taek and Spanish alpinist Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez have been in Base Camp for a couple of weeks now, but we’ve had almost no updates on their progress. The duo are attempting to climb the tough South Face of the mountain, which has only been done once before. Over the weekend they posted a dispatch on their progress, and while things are moving slowly, they are pushing forward.
The team started acclimatizing on the mountain at the end of September, then held their Puja ceremony on October 2. After that, they set off up the mountain and established Camp 1 at 5900 meters (19,356 ft) on October 4, and Camp 2 at 7200 meters (23,622 ft) on Oct. 7.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Final Summits on Manaslu.

Good weather returned to Manaslu today, allowing the final team on the mountain to safely summit and begin their descent, bringing an end to one of the busiest seasons ever on the 8th highest mountain in the world.

Yesterday I reported that the Adventure Consultants team was stalled out in Camp 4 after high winds unexpectedly kicked up around the summit. They elected to hold tight at that position to see if conditions would improve, and today they were rewarded for their patience. The team sent the following dispatch this morning to update everyone on their progress:

“Dean has just called in from Manaslu with the fantastic news that he, Jon, Ket and Philip summited earlier this morning, along with our all-star Sherpa team Lhakpa Dorjee Sherpa, Tsering Namgel Sherpa, Nima Tshering Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa and Rinjin Sherpa. And what’s more – they are already back at Camp Four!

He reported a stellar day that was well worth waiting for. Some light winds from the north, but all in all a brilliant day at 8163m.

The team are having a quick break and then will continue down the mountain.”

With nine more climbers standing on the top of Manaslu, we may have a new record for summits in a single season. We’ll have to wait to see what the final number are, but at last count, more than 200 had already gone up, which was rapidly approaching the most ever.

According to reports, it was a crowded Base Camp this fall, but the teams did a good job of staggering their summit pushes and despite poor weather at time, conditions were good when the time came for the mass trek to the top. We did see a few photos that showed lots of traffic going up and down the slopes, but it didn’t appear to have a major impact on safety or timing.

With the Adventure Consultants dropping back to Base Camp tomorrow, and preparing to go home, the major commercial squads are now wrapping up operations in the Himalaya for the fall. There are still some interesting ongoing expeditions to keep tabs on, but for the most part it will get a lot quieter moving forward. We’ll still keep tabs on developments however, so expect a few more updates in the days to come.

Congrats to the AC squad on a job well done.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: Final Summits on Manaslu

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Sitting Tight on Manaslu.

Yesterday it looked like my next expedition update from Manaslu would be to share the news of the final summits of the season as the last team on the mountain wrapped up operations. But as usual, Mother Nature has the last word when it comes to dictating the schedule, and she has once again disrupted the carefully laid plans of man.

The Adventure Consultants are the last team of climbers still standing on Manaslu and their plans were to launch a summit a bid from Camp 4 this morning. But, high winds have whipped up higher on the mountain, preventing them from proceeding with those plans, at least for now.

In a dispatch posted on the team’s website the group indicates that they will sit tight for another day and hope that conditions improve. With their acclimatization rotations now over and all of the pieces in place, it is likely that this will be their one and only summit push. If the weather continues to take a turn for the worse, they may have to head back down to Base Camp and start packing for home.

The forecast had called for clear skies and calm conditions as they headed up, although they are nearing the end of what has been a long weather window. Conditions throughout the season have been rainy and windy, but last week things cleared up, allowing most of the squads on the mountain to begin their final push. Since then, more than 200 summits have been recorded as nearly every other commercial squad took advantage of the conditions.

Unfortunately, the AC team arrived a bit later than most other groups, so they were slightly behind them when it came to the schedule. As other climbers set off for the summit, the Adventure Consultants team was just wrapping up its final acclimatization rotation. Hopefully they haven’t missed their window however, and they’ll be able to summit tomorrow instead.

We’ll keep an eye on their progress and keep our fingers crossed too. More news soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: –Himalaya Fall 2017: Sitting Tight on Manaslu

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Himalaya 2017: Adventure Consultants Alone on Manaslu, Bill Burke Back For Round 3.

With October now officially here, the climbing season in the Himalaya – at least for the big commercial teams – is starting to wind down. With Tibet closed for the season, Manaslu took center stage throughout the autumn with a slew of summits last week. Now, just one team remains on the mountain, as most have completed their expeditions and have begun the trek for home.

According to Alan Arnette, Manaslu has seen somewhere in the neighborhood of about 200 summits so far this fall. The largest of the teams on the mountain was organized by Seven Summits Treks, who managed to put 90 climbers on top, including about 45 Sherpas. Other squads at much more modest and manageable numbers, with the majority of them topping out over the final three days of last week.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits Continue on Manaslu, An Update From Lhotse.

Great weather has set the stage on Manaslu, where dozens of climbers have either summited over the past few days or are on their way up now. There has already been a high success rate on the mountain this fall, and there are still more summits to come. It appears that the current weather window will now extend into next week, giving every team an opportunity to have a crack at reaching the top.

Right now, the Seven Summits Treks team, which is the largest on the hill, have had the most success. Alan Arnette reports that they may have put as many as 90 people on the summit this season. Most are now back in BC and preparing to head home. Yesterday, the Summit Climb team also put a sizable group not he summit, and they are returning to Base Camp today as well. It is unclear at this time how many members of that squad topped out.

oday, the Arnold Coster team reached the summit, putting seven clients on top, along with eight Sherpas. They are working in conjunction with Seven Summits, who now reports just two Mexican climbers remain on their client list to make their final push.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: It’s Over on Dhaulagiri, Manaslu Teams On The Move.

More news from the Himalaya today, where things are developing rapidly at this point in the season. Now that the end of September is in sight, most of the larger commercial squads will be looking to wrap up their expeditions and get ready to go home. With that in mind, many of the teams are currently on the move, with summit bids set to take place over the next few days.

We’ll start with an update from Dhaulagiri, where yesterday Carlos Soria and his team set off for Camp 1 with the hope of making a summit bid over the next few days. But, unfortunately when they reached that point on the mountain they discovered heavy snow from the storm that hit the mountain last week. That fresh snow is very dangerous, as the team dodged several avalanches just on the climb up to C1 alone. It would also make it extremely difficult to break trail, and since they are still recovering form their previous attempt on the summit, they’ve made the choice to pull the plug on the expedition and go home. Carlos and company have already descended back to Base Camp and are now preparing to head home.

Over on Manaslu, the teams are crawling all over the mountain. There is a major summit push underway right now, with a number of teams heading up, including the Summit Climb squad. In their latest dispatch the indicate that at least some of their clients topped out this morning, and are on their way back to Camp 4 for a rest, with plans to descend back to BC tomorrow. No further news is available at this time.

The Adventure Consultants have also posted a new dispatch with word that their entire team is back in Base Camp after a successful acclimatization rotation. Most of the group went as high as Camp 2 and spent a couple of nights there, while a few went up to C3 for a night as well. Yesterday, they dropped back to BC and are now resting and preparing for a summit bid of their own. The forecast will dictate when that will happen, but given that they’ll need a few days to regain their strength, I wouldn’t expect them to set out for the top until this coming weekend at the earliest. By then, most of the other teams should have wrapped up their operations and will be preparing to depart for home, giving them a clear shot to the summit.

While the season does seem to be quickly winding down at this point, there will still be a few climbs to follow throughout the rest of the fall. While the big commercial teams always try to wrap things up early, there will no doubt be a few independent squads to follow along the way. We’ll keep our ears to the ground for those expeditions too, as they are often on the cutting edge in terms of pushing new routes and trying new things.

More to come soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: It’s Over on Dhaulagiri, Manaslu Teams On The Move

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits and A Death on Manaslu, Final Push Begins on Dhaulagiri.

Sad news from the Nepal this morning, where it is being reported that a climber has died on Manaslu. According to a report from Himalayan Guides, one of the operators on the mountain this season, 46-year old Phillip Harvey of the U.K. died while descending from Camp 3. He was already suffering from the advanced stages of altitude sickness and succumbed to that ailment before his support team could get him to safety.

Little is known beyond that, and of course our condolences go out to Phillip’s friends and family. This was the first death on Manaslu this season, and as the summit push begins, lets hope it is the only one.

Speaking of summits, yesterday was a busy day on the mountain with 23 members of the Seven Summits Trek team reaching the top. That number includes 11 clients (8 Chinese nationals, 2 Koreans, and 1 Indian climber) and 12 Sherpa guides. This group is already back on the descent, even as more teams head to the top.

The Summit Club team moved up to C3 yesterday and plan to continue up to C4 today, with the thought of summiting tomorrow, September 27. There are reportedly a number of other squads that are following a similar story, with most preparing to top out over the next few days. Meanwhile, the Adventure Consultants are dropping back to Base Camp today where they will rest up and then prepare for their own summit bid. That could come as early as this weekend, depending on how fit they are feeling and whether or not the forecast stays clear.

With more than 250 foreign climbers on Manaslu this season, it has been a busier than usual mountain. But, it now appears that things are wrapping up quickly, with most teams now on track to summit over the next few days. That would pretty much put them on schedule, despite the crowded conditions and heavy snows and rains that have hit the area so far this fall.

Finally, over on Dhaulagiri, 78-year old Carlos Soria has left Base Camp on his way up to C1 today. His team is now rested and have a favorable forecast, so they are hoping to reach the summit later this week too. If everything goes according to plan, they should top out no Thursday or Friday, giving the Spaniard his 13th 8000-meter peak. That would leave him with just Shishapangma left to climb.

Stay tuned for more updates. There is still plenty of action to come.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits and A Death on Manaslu, Final Push Begins on Dhaulagiri

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