Himalaya Fall 2017: It’s Over on Dhaulagiri, Manaslu Teams On The Move.

More news from the Himalaya today, where things are developing rapidly at this point in the season. Now that the end of September is in sight, most of the larger commercial squads will be looking to wrap up their expeditions and get ready to go home. With that in mind, many of the teams are currently on the move, with summit bids set to take place over the next few days.

We’ll start with an update from Dhaulagiri, where yesterday Carlos Soria and his team set off for Camp 1 with the hope of making a summit bid over the next few days. But, unfortunately when they reached that point on the mountain they discovered heavy snow from the storm that hit the mountain last week. That fresh snow is very dangerous, as the team dodged several avalanches just on the climb up to C1 alone. It would also make it extremely difficult to break trail, and since they are still recovering form their previous attempt on the summit, they’ve made the choice to pull the plug on the expedition and go home. Carlos and company have already descended back to Base Camp and are now preparing to head home.

Over on Manaslu, the teams are crawling all over the mountain. There is a major summit push underway right now, with a number of teams heading up, including the Summit Climb squad. In their latest dispatch the indicate that at least some of their clients topped out this morning, and are on their way back to Camp 4 for a rest, with plans to descend back to BC tomorrow. No further news is available at this time.

The Adventure Consultants have also posted a new dispatch with word that their entire team is back in Base Camp after a successful acclimatization rotation. Most of the group went as high as Camp 2 and spent a couple of nights there, while a few went up to C3 for a night as well. Yesterday, they dropped back to BC and are now resting and preparing for a summit bid of their own. The forecast will dictate when that will happen, but given that they’ll need a few days to regain their strength, I wouldn’t expect them to set out for the top until this coming weekend at the earliest. By then, most of the other teams should have wrapped up their operations and will be preparing to depart for home, giving them a clear shot to the summit.

While the season does seem to be quickly winding down at this point, there will still be a few climbs to follow throughout the rest of the fall. While the big commercial teams always try to wrap things up early, there will no doubt be a few independent squads to follow along the way. We’ll keep our ears to the ground for those expeditions too, as they are often on the cutting edge in terms of pushing new routes and trying new things.

More to come soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: It’s Over on Dhaulagiri, Manaslu Teams On The Move

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits and A Death on Manaslu, Final Push Begins on Dhaulagiri.

Sad news from the Nepal this morning, where it is being reported that a climber has died on Manaslu. According to a report from Himalayan Guides, one of the operators on the mountain this season, 46-year old Phillip Harvey of the U.K. died while descending from Camp 3. He was already suffering from the advanced stages of altitude sickness and succumbed to that ailment before his support team could get him to safety.

Little is known beyond that, and of course our condolences go out to Phillip’s friends and family. This was the first death on Manaslu this season, and as the summit push begins, lets hope it is the only one.

Speaking of summits, yesterday was a busy day on the mountain with 23 members of the Seven Summits Trek team reaching the top. That number includes 11 clients (8 Chinese nationals, 2 Koreans, and 1 Indian climber) and 12 Sherpa guides. This group is already back on the descent, even as more teams head to the top.

The Summit Club team moved up to C3 yesterday and plan to continue up to C4 today, with the thought of summiting tomorrow, September 27. There are reportedly a number of other squads that are following a similar story, with most preparing to top out over the next few days. Meanwhile, the Adventure Consultants are dropping back to Base Camp today where they will rest up and then prepare for their own summit bid. That could come as early as this weekend, depending on how fit they are feeling and whether or not the forecast stays clear.

With more than 250 foreign climbers on Manaslu this season, it has been a busier than usual mountain. But, it now appears that things are wrapping up quickly, with most teams now on track to summit over the next few days. That would pretty much put them on schedule, despite the crowded conditions and heavy snows and rains that have hit the area so far this fall.

Finally, over on Dhaulagiri, 78-year old Carlos Soria has left Base Camp on his way up to C1 today. His team is now rested and have a favorable forecast, so they are hoping to reach the summit later this week too. If everything goes according to plan, they should top out no Thursday or Friday, giving the Spaniard his 13th 8000-meter peak. That would leave him with just Shishapangma left to climb.

Stay tuned for more updates. There is still plenty of action to come.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits and A Death on Manaslu, Final Push Begins on Dhaulagiri

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Teams Begin Plotting Summit Bids.

The weather in the Himalaya is starting to improve after several days of snow and rain last week. That means that teams are on the move one again as they continue their acclimatization efforts, with some even starting to think about their eventual summit bids.

There has been plenty of rain in Dhaulagiri Base Camp all season long, but things are starting to improve there. So much so that 78-year old Carlos Soria and his team are starting to plan their second summit bid. Their first attempt to climb the mountain was thwarted when they took the wrong path to the top. They have since returned to BC, rested up, and waited out the weather. They now hope to launch their second attempt on the summit later this week.

Meanwhile, over on Manaslu, the teams have also resumed their acclimatization efforts. The weather had kept them at lower altitudes for a few days as well, but now that conditions are improving, the numerous teams on the mountain are eager to get started once again. To that end, the Adventure Consultants have moved up to Camp 2, arriving at that point earlier today, with a few members of the squad actually continuing up to C3 as well. Tomorrow they’ll return to Base Camp for some rest, and will once again look at the forecast to decide their next move. When they go back up the mountain next time, it will be to launch their summit bid.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Duble Amputee Summits Mera Peak, Messner in Base Camp

It has been another active few days in the Himalaya, where we are closing in on the halfway point of the fall climbing season. The teams are in the midst of their acclimatization rotations in anticipation of summit bids to come, but are keeping a close eye on weather forecasts to determine their next move. But, as usual, there is a lot happening, and not all if it is centered around the big 8000 meter peaks.

We’ll start with an update on Hari Budha Magar, the double-amputee who set his sights on Mera Peak this fall. The former British Gurkha soldier has reached the summit on that mountain, becoming the first person to do so following the loss of his legs above the knee. He, and four other members of the team, topped out on the 6476-meter (21,246 ft) mountain at 9:02 AM local time on Tuesday.

Magar, who lost his legs while fighting in Afghanistan, used this expedition as training for an upcoming attempt on Everest. He now plans to attempt to summit the world’s highest mountain in the spring of 2018. He has now descended off of Mera Peak and is resting before proceeding for home.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: First Summits of the Season on Manaslu.


While we’ve been busy over the past few days following the proceedings on Dhaulagiri, where it appeared that we’d see the first summits of the season in the Himalaya, a team of Sherpas have earned that distinction on Manaslu instead. According to The Himalayan Times, five men went to the top of the mountain as they completed the task of fixing ropes to the summit. Later, they were also joined by a pair of foreign climbers who claimed early season success too.

The Sherpa team consisted of Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Nga Tashi Sherpa, Damai Sarki Sherpa and Dawa Chiring from Seven Summit Treks, along with Phurba Tashi Sherpa from Mountain Experience. The group reached the summit at 9:54 AM local time, radioing back to Base Camp that they had indeed reached 8163 meters (26,781 ft).

Not far behind the Sherpa squad were a pair of climbers from Himalayan Experience. That team announced that in addition to placing two of its Sherpas ( Phurba Tashi and Nigma Sona) on the summit, two clients also reached that point. Those men are Dan Home from the U.K. and Frank Seidel of Germany.

Now, with the ropes in place, the path has been set for other teams to soon follow. Manaslu is crowded this fall, with more than 255 foreign climbers currently in Base Camp. Most have just started their initial acclimatization process and are still a few weeks away from starting their actual summit push. While others, like the Adventure Peaks squad, have been on the mountain a bit longer than most, and have now been all the way up to Camp 3 as they adjust to the altitude. That should put them in a good position to potentially launch summit bids in another week or so, weather permitting of course.

In contrast, Adventure Consultants are currently in C2 on the mountain and will head back to BC today or tomorrow. They’ll have at least one more rotation before they start to think about a summit push of their own, which would put them about a week behind the Adventure Peaks team.

Finally, over on Dhaulagiri, Carlos Soria and his team are nestled back into Base Camp as they rest and recuperate from their recent attempt on the summit of that mountain. They were turned back due to high winds and poor visibility, but hope to launch another attempt as early as later this week. For now though, they sit and wait and watch the forecasts.

More to come soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: –  Himalaya Fall 2017: First Summits of the Season on Manaslu

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Summit Bids Denied on Dhaulagiri.

This past weekend saw the first real summit push of the 2017 fall climbing season in the Himalaya, with climbers on Dhaulagiri hoping to claim an early victory. But as usual the weather conditions dictated the level of success and the team quickly learned that Mother Nature isn’t any more forgiving in the autumn then she is in the spring.

78-year old Spanish mountaineer Carlos Sora and his seven-person squad left for the summit on Dhaulagiri on Saturday morning. They were accompanied by four Sherpas who helped install fixed ropes up the mountain. Working together the team was able to install lines up to 7800 meters (25,590 ft). From there, they made the decision to keep a bit of extra rope in reserve for the final push to the top of the 8167 meter (26,795 ft) peak.

The weather forecast for the day had called for relatively light winds on the summit and clear skies overhead. But things can change quickly in the big mountains of Nepal, and those conditions didn’t last. Precipitation has been an issue for most of the season so far, with rain at lower altitudes and snow up high. As they approached the top, snow began to fall and the winds started to pick up, making it difficult to see where they were going. With the situation quickly becoming dangerous, the team decided to turn back to Camp 3 to seek shelter from the storm.

Now, the entire group has descended back to Base Camp, where they are currently resting and regaining strength. The current plan is to watch the weather forecast for later in the week and prepare for another summit push in a few days. Right now, there is no schedule for when they’ll go up again, but if conditions improve, it could happen in just a few days time.

Meanwhile, over on Manaslu the acclimatization rotations have truly begun. The Adventure Consultants report that their squad has gone up to Camp 1 over the weekend with the intention of spending 2-3 nights at 5600 meters (18,373 ft) to allow their bodies to adjust to the altitude. From there, they’ll drop back down to BC to recover before heading back up later in the week.

The Adventure Peaks team has already headed up to Camp 2 on the mountain as they continue their acclimatization process. The group reports a very crowded mountain as there are more commercial squads on Manaslu this year due to the closure of the Tibetan border. But the team arrived on the mountain two weeks ahead of most of the other groups, which puts them ahead of schedule when compared to the everyone else. That could come in handy as they look to avoid crowds on their eventual summit day as they are ahead of everyone else in terms of scheduling.

That’s all for now. We’ll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings in the Himalaya, as it looks like it should be another very active week there.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: –  Himalaya Fall 2017: Summit Bids Denied on Dhaulagiri

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Tomorrow is Summit Day on Dhaulagiri.


The fall 2017 climbing season in the Himalaya is barely underway, and yet we could have our first successful summits as early as tomorrow. While most teams are still getting settled into Base Camps across the region, one squad has already launched their summit bid and it looks like it has a great chance to be successful.

78-year old Spanish alpinist Carlos Soria and his team left BC a few days back and have now put themselves within striking distance of the top. According to his Facebook page, they are now camped in C3 at 7200 meters (26,622 ft) and if all goes according to plan, they’ll launch the final push tomorrow. The weather forecast calls for good conditions with wind speeds from 20-25 km (12-15 mph) and high cloud cover. In mountaineering terms, that’s about as good as you can expect on an 8000-meter peak.

If successful, this will be Soria’s 13th 8000-meter peak, leaving him just one more to add to his resume. That final mountain is Shishapangma, which is a relatively easy climb compared to most of the other big Himalayan mountains. If he knocks of Dhaulagiri as expected, I would anticipate that he’ll be back on Shishapangma in the spring, looking to get his final 8-thousander, which would be an impressive accomplishment at any age, let alone in his late 70’s.

Elsewhere, teams are proceeding with the acclimatization efforts on schedule. Yesterday, the Adventure Consultants touched Camp 1 on Manaslu, which means they went up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft), dropped off some gear, ate some lunch, and then dropped back down to Base Camp. They spent today resting and organizing more of their equipment in preparation for returning to C1 for an overnight stay in a few days. According to the latest dispatch, that camp is now fully stocked and ready to go, and the Sherpas have begun shuttling gear up to Camp 2 as well.

For most of the climbers the grind is now about to truly begin. They’ll be spending their time going higher on the mountain, then returning to Base Camp for some much needed rest while their bodies acclimate to the altitude. We’re still a few weeks away from summit bids on Manaslu, which is where the bulk of the action will take place this fall. For now, its just a matter of putting in the work and sticking to the schedule. I’m sure there will be much more to report soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: Tomorrow is Summit Day on Dhaulagiri

** see also: –  https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/video/

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