Himalaya Fall 2017: More Details on First Ascent of Nagpai Gosum,More Summits on Dhaulagiri.

The fall climbing season in Nepal continues unabated with more updates from the Himalaya. While there is no new news from Lhotse, there is plenty of other things to talk about from the big mountains.

We’ll start with an update on German climber Kobusch Jost summit of Nagpai Gosum, which we first mentioned on Monday. At that time there were few details available, other than that the 25-year old alpinist had managed to summit the previous unclimbed peak, which is 7296 meters (23,397 ft) in altitude. Before Jost topped out last week, it was the fourth highest unclimbed mountain in the world.

The Himalayan Times has shared more information about the expedition, which began way back on August 14 when Jost set out from Lukla with two teammates – fellow German Schardt Raphael Rene and a Sherpa support person. The trio went to Nagpai Gosum and set up camp there, then proceeded to acclimatize over the following weeks. When it came time to make their summit push, neither Rene or the Sherpa were able to climb higher than C2, so Jost set out on a solo attempt. He reached the top at 10:25 AM local time on October 3.
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Himalaya Fall 2018: Update From Lhotse, More on Nanga Parbat, Not Done on Manaslu.

Despite major commercial operations wrapping up on Manaslu last week, the fall climbing season in the Himalaya appears to be far from over. In fact, following this past weekend, there is once again a lot to report from the big mountains, where some expeditions are only now truly ramping up.

We’ll start with an update from Lhotse, where Korean climber Hong Sung Taek and Spanish alpinist Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez have been in Base Camp for a couple of weeks now, but we’ve had almost no updates on their progress. The duo are attempting to climb the tough South Face of the mountain, which has only been done once before. Over the weekend they posted a dispatch on their progress, and while things are moving slowly, they are pushing forward.
The team started acclimatizing on the mountain at the end of September, then held their Puja ceremony on October 2. After that, they set off up the mountain and established Camp 1 at 5900 meters (19,356 ft) on October 4, and Camp 2 at 7200 meters (23,622 ft) on Oct. 7.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: It’s Over on Dhaulagiri, Manaslu Teams On The Move.

More news from the Himalaya today, where things are developing rapidly at this point in the season. Now that the end of September is in sight, most of the larger commercial squads will be looking to wrap up their expeditions and get ready to go home. With that in mind, many of the teams are currently on the move, with summit bids set to take place over the next few days.

We’ll start with an update from Dhaulagiri, where yesterday Carlos Soria and his team set off for Camp 1 with the hope of making a summit bid over the next few days. But, unfortunately when they reached that point on the mountain they discovered heavy snow from the storm that hit the mountain last week. That fresh snow is very dangerous, as the team dodged several avalanches just on the climb up to C1 alone. It would also make it extremely difficult to break trail, and since they are still recovering form their previous attempt on the summit, they’ve made the choice to pull the plug on the expedition and go home. Carlos and company have already descended back to Base Camp and are now preparing to head home.

Over on Manaslu, the teams are crawling all over the mountain. There is a major summit push underway right now, with a number of teams heading up, including the Summit Climb squad. In their latest dispatch the indicate that at least some of their clients topped out this morning, and are on their way back to Camp 4 for a rest, with plans to descend back to BC tomorrow. No further news is available at this time.

The Adventure Consultants have also posted a new dispatch with word that their entire team is back in Base Camp after a successful acclimatization rotation. Most of the group went as high as Camp 2 and spent a couple of nights there, while a few went up to C3 for a night as well. Yesterday, they dropped back to BC and are now resting and preparing for a summit bid of their own. The forecast will dictate when that will happen, but given that they’ll need a few days to regain their strength, I wouldn’t expect them to set out for the top until this coming weekend at the earliest. By then, most of the other teams should have wrapped up their operations and will be preparing to depart for home, giving them a clear shot to the summit.

While the season does seem to be quickly winding down at this point, there will still be a few climbs to follow throughout the rest of the fall. While the big commercial teams always try to wrap things up early, there will no doubt be a few independent squads to follow along the way. We’ll keep our ears to the ground for those expeditions too, as they are often on the cutting edge in terms of pushing new routes and trying new things.

More to come soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: It’s Over on Dhaulagiri, Manaslu Teams On The Move

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits and A Death on Manaslu, Final Push Begins on Dhaulagiri.

Sad news from the Nepal this morning, where it is being reported that a climber has died on Manaslu. According to a report from Himalayan Guides, one of the operators on the mountain this season, 46-year old Phillip Harvey of the U.K. died while descending from Camp 3. He was already suffering from the advanced stages of altitude sickness and succumbed to that ailment before his support team could get him to safety.

Little is known beyond that, and of course our condolences go out to Phillip’s friends and family. This was the first death on Manaslu this season, and as the summit push begins, lets hope it is the only one.

Speaking of summits, yesterday was a busy day on the mountain with 23 members of the Seven Summits Trek team reaching the top. That number includes 11 clients (8 Chinese nationals, 2 Koreans, and 1 Indian climber) and 12 Sherpa guides. This group is already back on the descent, even as more teams head to the top.

The Summit Club team moved up to C3 yesterday and plan to continue up to C4 today, with the thought of summiting tomorrow, September 27. There are reportedly a number of other squads that are following a similar story, with most preparing to top out over the next few days. Meanwhile, the Adventure Consultants are dropping back to Base Camp today where they will rest up and then prepare for their own summit bid. That could come as early as this weekend, depending on how fit they are feeling and whether or not the forecast stays clear.

With more than 250 foreign climbers on Manaslu this season, it has been a busier than usual mountain. But, it now appears that things are wrapping up quickly, with most teams now on track to summit over the next few days. That would pretty much put them on schedule, despite the crowded conditions and heavy snows and rains that have hit the area so far this fall.

Finally, over on Dhaulagiri, 78-year old Carlos Soria has left Base Camp on his way up to C1 today. His team is now rested and have a favorable forecast, so they are hoping to reach the summit later this week too. If everything goes according to plan, they should top out no Thursday or Friday, giving the Spaniard his 13th 8000-meter peak. That would leave him with just Shishapangma left to climb.

Stay tuned for more updates. There is still plenty of action to come.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Himalaya Fall 2017: Summits and A Death on Manaslu, Final Push Begins on Dhaulagiri

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Teams Begin Plotting Summit Bids.

The weather in the Himalaya is starting to improve after several days of snow and rain last week. That means that teams are on the move one again as they continue their acclimatization efforts, with some even starting to think about their eventual summit bids.

There has been plenty of rain in Dhaulagiri Base Camp all season long, but things are starting to improve there. So much so that 78-year old Carlos Soria and his team are starting to plan their second summit bid. Their first attempt to climb the mountain was thwarted when they took the wrong path to the top. They have since returned to BC, rested up, and waited out the weather. They now hope to launch their second attempt on the summit later this week.

Meanwhile, over on Manaslu, the teams have also resumed their acclimatization efforts. The weather had kept them at lower altitudes for a few days as well, but now that conditions are improving, the numerous teams on the mountain are eager to get started once again. To that end, the Adventure Consultants have moved up to Camp 2, arriving at that point earlier today, with a few members of the squad actually continuing up to C3 as well. Tomorrow they’ll return to Base Camp for some rest, and will once again look at the forecast to decide their next move. When they go back up the mountain next time, it will be to launch their summit bid.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: Duble Amputee Summits Mera Peak, Messner in Base Camp

It has been another active few days in the Himalaya, where we are closing in on the halfway point of the fall climbing season. The teams are in the midst of their acclimatization rotations in anticipation of summit bids to come, but are keeping a close eye on weather forecasts to determine their next move. But, as usual, there is a lot happening, and not all if it is centered around the big 8000 meter peaks.

We’ll start with an update on Hari Budha Magar, the double-amputee who set his sights on Mera Peak this fall. The former British Gurkha soldier has reached the summit on that mountain, becoming the first person to do so following the loss of his legs above the knee. He, and four other members of the team, topped out on the 6476-meter (21,246 ft) mountain at 9:02 AM local time on Tuesday.

Magar, who lost his legs while fighting in Afghanistan, used this expedition as training for an upcoming attempt on Everest. He now plans to attempt to summit the world’s highest mountain in the spring of 2018. He has now descended off of Mera Peak and is resting before proceeding for home.

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Himalaya Fall 2017: First Summits of the Season on Manaslu.

 

While we’ve been busy over the past few days following the proceedings on Dhaulagiri, where it appeared that we’d see the first summits of the season in the Himalaya, a team of Sherpas have earned that distinction on Manaslu instead. According to The Himalayan Times, five men went to the top of the mountain as they completed the task of fixing ropes to the summit. Later, they were also joined by a pair of foreign climbers who claimed early season success too.

The Sherpa team consisted of Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Nga Tashi Sherpa, Damai Sarki Sherpa and Dawa Chiring from Seven Summit Treks, along with Phurba Tashi Sherpa from Mountain Experience. The group reached the summit at 9:54 AM local time, radioing back to Base Camp that they had indeed reached 8163 meters (26,781 ft).

Not far behind the Sherpa squad were a pair of climbers from Himalayan Experience. That team announced that in addition to placing two of its Sherpas ( Phurba Tashi and Nigma Sona) on the summit, two clients also reached that point. Those men are Dan Home from the U.K. and Frank Seidel of Germany.

Now, with the ropes in place, the path has been set for other teams to soon follow. Manaslu is crowded this fall, with more than 255 foreign climbers currently in Base Camp. Most have just started their initial acclimatization process and are still a few weeks away from starting their actual summit push. While others, like the Adventure Peaks squad, have been on the mountain a bit longer than most, and have now been all the way up to Camp 3 as they adjust to the altitude. That should put them in a good position to potentially launch summit bids in another week or so, weather permitting of course.

In contrast, Adventure Consultants are currently in C2 on the mountain and will head back to BC today or tomorrow. They’ll have at least one more rotation before they start to think about a summit push of their own, which would put them about a week behind the Adventure Peaks team.

Finally, over on Dhaulagiri, Carlos Soria and his team are nestled back into Base Camp as they rest and recuperate from their recent attempt on the summit of that mountain. They were turned back due to high winds and poor visibility, but hope to launch another attempt as early as later this week. For now though, they sit and wait and watch the forecasts.

More to come soon.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: –  Himalaya Fall 2017: First Summits of the Season on Manaslu

** see also: –

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