Everest and K2 in the Winter by alanarnette.com.

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Everest and K2 in the Winter.

Will there be a winter summit of Everest and finally on K2 this winter? This is always a question as we approach winter. And teams usually keep their plans quiet. The recent suspects include Alex Txikon on Everest and the Poles on K2.

To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 201, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT.

Also to be fully certified as a winter ascent, not only the summit has to be reached within the winter calendar, but the start of the expedition cannot be before winter solstice either. Practically this means that the Base Camp must be reached after the winter solstice.

8000ers in Winter

As this table shows, Polish climbers have dominated first winter ascents of the 8000 meter peaks.

K2 This Winter?

Of course, K2 remains the only 8000er not summited in winter. Last year, Nanga Parbat succumbed to the team of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger. It took 31 winter attempts before summiting Nanga in winter.

Now on K2, Krzysztof Wielicki, 67, who was in the first team to scale Everest in winter in 1980 will lead the Polish K2 attempt this winter.

Funding had been a problem but it appears they have received $275,000 from the Polish Ministry of Sport and Tourism according to this article.

They will be a team of 10 but only four will be on the “summit team.” They will climb in traditional siege style establishing several camps along the route. Of course weather is the primary concern as K2 is always hit with high winds but in winter the jet stream tends to sit on top of it with 200 mph winds and experience heavy snowfall.

The team is scheduled to include: Janusz Goląb, 50, with a Gasherbum I ascent, Artur Małek, who made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak, Marcin Kaczkan, K2 in the winter of 2002/03 to 7,600m and summited K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer, plus Marek Chmielarski, summits of Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak.

Other team members include Rafał Fronia (Lhotse and Gasherbrum II), Piotr Tomala (Broad Peak and Cho Oyu), Dariusz Załuski (filmmaker / climbed five 8,000-metre peaks) and doctor Krzysztof Wranicz.

They are not sure which route they will take but it most likely will be either the Abruzzi or the Česen.

See this post for a nice overview of K2 winter attempts. But these are the highlights from Gripped:

  • 1980 Reconnaissance: Pol Andrzej Zawada and Canadian-resident Polish national Jaques Olek
  • 1987/88 Attempt: 13 Poles, 7 Canadians and 4 Brits / made to Camp 3
  • 2002/03 Attempt: 14 climbers from Poland, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Georgia / made Camp 4
  • 2011/12 Attempt: 9 climbers from Russia / made Camp 2
  • 2014/15 Near Attempt: Denis Urubko and team lost permit

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

* source: – Everest and K2 in the Winter

** see also – Polish Team Prepares for Winter Ascent of K2.

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Artur Hajzer – Ice Leader.

hajzer-portretIs winter Himalayan mountaineering possible without Artur Hajzer? “Well, they say ‘in for a penny, in for a pound.’ There is a will to finish it, an urge to confirm the Polish leadership in this discipline. It is a wonderful idea and I am making it happen with passion,” he used to say. Although the Gasherbrum expedition, during which he died, took place outside of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project 2010-2015 (Polski Himalaizm Zimowy – PHZ), it had been well known that he went there to build up his stamina for the remaining summits which have not been climbed in winter yet. He was one of the youngest Ice Warriors and has become the eternally young Ice Leader. This article, written by Jagoda Mytych, was originally published in “n.p.m.” magazine in September 2013.

hajzer-phz

“Everyone knows one of his faces, one or a few,” wrote Izabela Hajzer about her husband and best friend. And in fact, you could really separate Artur Hajzer’s resume into a number of people. He was a top quality climber with seven eight-thousanders to his name, a successful businessman, the founding father and chief executive of a project which made the Poles start climbing eight-thousanders in winter again. Even if not all the goals he had set were accomplished successfully, he never gave up. He was well known for his endurance and perseverance as well as his wittiness and willingness to share his knowledge and experience.

Artur died on 07 July 2013 while retreating from Gasherbrum I, one of the two eight-thousanders he had planned to ascend this year to “keep fit and stay in touch with the altitude in case another winter expedition was about to take place in the coming years.” We bid him farewell on 24 July in the arch-cathedral in Katowice, the same church, in which 24 years earlier another service had been performed to commemorate Jerzy Kukuczka. Janusz Majer, not only Artur’s business partner for many years but also a friend, gave a moving speech during the funeral service.

While I was working on this text, he told me: “Everyone knows one of his faces. Just so. I think I knew them all. When you work together, there are many reasons to end friendship, but we made it. We went through a lot of twists and turns.”

Snow Elephant

Artur was born on 28 June 1962 in Silesia. He graduated from the University of Katowice with a degree in Cultural Studies but since he was a teenager, he had been active in the Silesian mountaineering circles where he had been nicknamed ‘Elephant’. When he was 14 years of age, he started climbing with the Tatra Scout Club. At the age of 16, he finished the climbing course in the Tatra mountains, so called ‘Betlejemka’. His sporty attitude could already be seen at that time. He climbed Kazalnica Mięguszowska via many routes, Ganek and other faces, and a few difficult routes in the Alps in the Mont Blanc massif, including Petit Dru and Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Mont Blanc 1981 - z arch. Artura Hajzera

Mont Blanc 1981

hajzer-mlody

Artur Hajzer’s later climbing career was closely linked to the Mountaineering Club in Katowice, which at that time was called “the best Himalayan mountaineering club in the world’, as it was the place where Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzystof Wielicki and Ryszard Pawłowski had actively been involved.

“We were one large family in the club. Our lives revolved around the club. We did not only spent time climbing rocks or mountaineering but worked together, partied together and went to concerts together. Artur was a significant individual in the club. He was one of the promising young who did not end up as ‘promising’ but actually achieved a lot by the age of 30,” recalls Janusz Majer, who had been the chairman of the club in Katowice since 1980 and is its honorary member at present.

hajzer-anorak

Hajzer was not only an above-average climber but also a savvy and talented … tailor. He would sew everything for himself and his fellow climbers, from harnesses and backpacks to articles of clothing and down jackets. It was an invaluable experience, taking into account the fact that he was then one of the pioneers of the Polish outdoors industry. He was also familiar with painting – especially at high altitude.

Artur reminisced the summer of 1982 in his book Attack of Despair. “Every day was the same. We did not let the paint rollers out of our hands from dawn till dusk. Fortunately, we spent weekends climbing rocks in the Polish Jurassic Highland, mastering our climbing form. We did not know then which mountains we were about to be tested in.”

And the same year, at the age of 20, with a trip to Rolwaling Himal region, Artur began his Himalayan adventure. The following year, he took part in an expedition to Tirich Mir (7,706m), the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush range. In 1985, he made his first attempt on the south face of Lhotse. The club expedition had already been at Camp V, when it was joined by another member of the Katowice circles – Jerzy Kukuczka.

Artur Hajzer i Rafał Hołda, Kathmandu 1982, z archi. Artura Hajzera

Artur Hajzer with Rafał Chołda, Kathmandu 1982

Regrettably, although Hajzer met his idol and future climbing partner, he lost his current partner, Rafał Chołda, who died climbing Lhotse. Artur wrote that “from the very first moment they tied and shared a rope, they walked the same path.” The expedition was unsuccessful. Almost immediately afterwards, he set out on another one – a winter expedition to climb Kangchenjunga. He reached the summit again and again faced death in the mountains. This time it was Andrzej Czok who lost his life.

Jerzy Kukuczka’s partner

When you look for a phrase to describe Artur Hajzer, one of the first that comes to mind is ‘Jurek Kukuczka’s partner.’ Even though their first expedition was not successful, after Lhotse Hajzer felt much more secure.

Artur Hajzer, Wanda Rutkiewicz i Jerzy Kukuczka, Annapurna 1987

Artur Hajzer, Wanda Rutkiewicz and Jerzy Kukuczka, Annapurna 1987

“I started believing in myself. I realised that my first steps were analogous to what Jurek had been doing a few years back. Eventually, I felt convinced that the Lhotse failure had not determined it all and the next time – as proven by Jurek’s career – would be better,” Hajzer recalled years later. And it was better, together with Jerzy Kukuczka.

“How about going on an expedition with me? I need a partner. How about that?”

“I am all for it, on spec”, answered Elephant to Kukuś.

“It was very elevating to Artur, he was very pleased. Jurek Kukuczka offered Artur that if he had organised an expedition to Manaslu and a winter expedition to Annapurna, they would climb together. And so it happened, and that is the reason Artur decided not to go with us to climb K2 via the Magic Line route,” recalls Janusz Majer.

“The Manaslu (8,156m) expedition was the most difficult of all our – mine and Jurek’s – successful expeditions. It took place in autumn 1986. We were to attempt the south face of Annapurna (8,091m) in the same season,” wrote Hajzer. On 03 February 1987 they made their first winter ascent together to the summit of an eight-thousander.

Another expedition they went on together was a summer expedition to Shishapangma in August 1987, during which they established a new route on the western ridge. The same year, Artur made another attempt on the south face of Lhotse during an international expedition organised by Krzysztof Wielicki. The expedition was a failure. In 1988, he accompanied Jurek Kukuczka, this time ascending the west Annapurna via a new route. A year later he returned for the third time to the south face of Lhotse. That time, the international expedition was organised by the Kukuczka’s ‘greatest rival’ – Rainhold Messner.

“After that expedition I came to a conclusion that another attempt would be a waste of time,” Artur writes in Attack of Despair. That is why he did not join Kukuczka during his attempt.

“It was clear that Artur had equalled his master and his own ambition took the floor. He wanted to bring his own mountaineering projects to life,” recalls Janusz Majer.

On 24 October 1989, Jerzy Kukuczka fell of the south face of Lhotse and died. Artur Hajzer gave up climbing for a long time.

“It took me 15 years to get over it,” that is all he told me about that incident and switched off for a while. He looked as if he was not talking about something in the past but processing news that had just arrived. When he returned to Lhotse under the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project, he said that it was ‘a conversation with ghosts.’

Rescuing and rescued

1989 was as equally tragic to Polish Himalayan mountaineering as 2013. In 1989, five eminent climbers died in an avalanche on Lho La pass while climbing Mount Everest: Eugeniusz Chrobak (expedition leader), Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, Mirosław ‘Falco’ Dąsal, Wacław Otręba and Mirosław Gardzielewski. The only survivor was Andrzej Marciniak, suffering from snow blindness while awaiting rescue. Hajzer was in Kathmandu at that time. With no hesitation he set about organising a complicated rescue mission from China, as it was the only possible way.

“At that time, people were protesting in Tiananmen Square. Borders were tightly shut. The American Embassy needed to exert pressure. To organise the rescue mission was probably more difficult than to pull it off. But I got instructed by Janusz Majer that either I would do something or it was done and dusted. In such moments, there is really no room to debate, or it is all over,” recalled Artur Hajzer.

“It seemed to me that Artur was the only person able to organise a rescue missions under those complicated circumstances. Even though there were excellent climbers in the base camp, it was impossible to approach from our side because of the avalanche danger. The only option left was unconventional. It was a challenge to Artur, the quintessence of his way of life. He started acting immediately. He was talking to Messner. Messner was talking to the Italian ambassador who was playing tennis with the Russian ambassador the following day. It was all about getting to the Chinese and get their permission for the mission,” said Janusz Majer.

Akcja ratunkowa po Andrzeja Marciniaka, 1989, z archi. A. Hajzera

Akcja ratunkowa po Andrzeja Marciniaka, 1989, z archi. A. Hajzera

For a daring rescue mission on Mount Everest Artur received the Polish Olympics Committee Fair Play Award. 20 years later, Andrzej Marciniak died while climbing in the Tatras. When Hazjer was asked about it, he emphasised that the most important aspect of it was that he had managed to give him those extra 20 years.

Not only did Hajzer recue people but was also rescued by them. In 2005, on Broad Peak, he broke his leg at almost 8,000m. Piotr Pustelnik, who was climbing with him then, led the rescue mission. In February 2008, he was taken by an avalanche on the south ridge of Ciemniak in the west Tatras. He managed to stay close to the surface and thanks to a well-organized TOPR mission, he was rescued unscathed and even got a reputation of ‘always landing on his feet.’ For walking outside of the designated tourist route, the Tatra National Park board of directors gave him a symbolic disciplinary warning.

Lawina na Ciemniaku 2008

Hajzer rescued by TOPR from avalanche, Ciemniak, 2008.

“February 2008, the Tatras. Objective: to traverse the entire Tatra ridge non-stop. I am walking with three experienced Himalayan mountaineers. I feel safe. We are in our twenty second hour of walking, we are ascending Ciemniak. Artur is first and suddenly disappears. Panic stations – Piotrek is trying to get reception and notify TOPR. Darek is going downhill. Done, TOPR is notified, they are coming. Hearing the helicopter, we walk slowly down in silence. Minutes are passing. And then I got a text message from Artur: I am alive. My first thought: Artur, you are invincible. That thought is with me today as well,” recalls Tamara Styś, a Himalayan mountaineer.

Businessman

After 1989, he withdrew from active climbing and together with Janusz Majer took to business, which gave birth to a brand that became cult in the 90s – Alpinus.

“After Everest, Artur came up with this idea of 14 eight-thousanders in a year. We were supposed to have one million dollars to do it. We were sorting out permissions. The entire organisation process was well advanced. We even had business cards. In autumn 1989, when Jurek was on Lhotse, Artur and I went to lSPO to look for a sponsor for our project. We talked to a number of people, including Albrecht von Dewitz, the founder of Vaude, a huge German outdoor brand. Eventually, we did not get a sponsor for our Himalayan project but a business partner,” says Janusz Majer. “First, we sewed for Vaude and then directly for Alpinus. From Vaude we got the know-how. Our advantage was that we knew the product inside out. Our products were known to be of good quality. Even today I meet people wearing our jackets made in the 90s,” he adds.

High quality materials, advanced technologies and, at the same time, limited interest of the Polish people in the outdoor market resulted in financial difficulties of the company, leading to its bankruptcy. The founders were not put off, though. Hajzer and Majer’s new project was another brand which was more affordable to the customer. HiMountain products are visible almost everywhere in the Polish mountains.

“We had already had experience gained during the liquidation of our first enterprise, so when we were creating HiMountain, we were trying to eliminate the root causes of our previous failure. But we had never given up on quality. Artur was very creative at work and kept following all current market trends. He knew how to build a team and come up with new projects which would attract people to participate in their implementation,” says Janusz Majer.

After 15 years in business, Artur realised that ‘he could not live peacefully without mountains.‘ He returned to climbing in 2005. First, almost instantly, he went to climb Broad Peak with Piotr Pustelnik and then Dhaulagiri with Robert Szymczak.

Winter expeditions leader

Artur’s business approach can be traced in the way the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project 2010-2015 functions, which, according to Artur Hajzer, has been born out of a need to convince PZA to fund expeditions in the highest mountains.

“The fact that the project exists depends 90% on office and managerial work and one day I should really write what it looks like from behind the desk,” Artur used to joke.

And it looked like this. On 14 November 2009, 3 potential Himalayan mountaineers showed up in his office: Arek Grządziel, Jacek Czech and Irek Waluga. The next day was the deadline for funding applications.

“We knew PZA would not give a penny for a regular route climb, even in winter, if the success were not guaranteed. Robert Szymczak and I had just been refused financial support for a winter Broad Peak expedition 2008/2009. It was then when I came up with this idea that I would draft a project which would not be about climbing via regular routes but winter expeditions in the years to come,” recalled Hajzer.

The seed took root and in May 2010, already under the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering Project 2010-2015, an expedition was organised to climb Nanga Parbat. Artur reached the summit with Robert Szymczak and during the second attack, Marcin Kaczan, one of the younger members of the team, ascended to the summit. ‘The young’ proved themselves again during the Elbrus Race. Andrzej Bargiel and Ola Dzik finished the race in record time. Continue reading

Best of Himalman’s Weblog.

1.Best pictures:

everest.jpg

Everest – photo by Ryszard Pawłowski – Polish International Mt Everest expedition 99

polish_international_mt_everest_expedition99_415.jpg
Everest – photo by Ryszard Pawłowski – Polish International Mt Everest expedition 99

2 Best post on my site :

Polish famous climbers – The golden decade of Polish Himalayan mountaineering.

30 rocznica zimowego wejścia na Mt. Everest: droga do sukcesu.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Smak gór – książka Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

smak-gor PawłowskiSmak gór” odpowie Ci na pytania, które chciałeś zadać alpinistom. Po co oni tam chodzą? Ile to kosztuje? Jak można się umyć i wysikać na siedmiu tysiącach metrów? Czy to prawda, że po paru pobytach na dużej wysokości w mózgu robią się dziury? Czy Szerpowie nie lubią himalaistów? Czy można nie wejść na szczyt, a powiedzieć, że się weszło? Odpowiedzi udziela Ryszard Pawłowski, jeden z najlepszych alpinistów świata. Pytają – nieraz w sposób brutalny – ludzie, którzy nie mieli nigdy do czynienia z górami wysokimi. Dlatego “Smak gór” to książka inna niż setki górskiej literatury ustawianej na księgarskich półkach. To książka dla Ciebie.

Drugim obliczem “Smaku gór” jest psychologiczny portret Ryszarda Pawłowskiego – człowieka, który w mieście czuje się zagubiony, a w warunkach, w których my nie przetrwalibyśmy dnia, on oddycha pełną piersią i jeszcze ma siły, by zdobywać K2, trzy razy wejść na Mount Everest i rozwinąć najlepszą w Polsce firmę oferującą komercyjne wyprawy wysokogórskie…

Książka ta zawiera opisy różnych ekspedycji polskiego himalaisty Ryszarda Pawłowskiego. Pisana jest, powiedzmy, w formie wywiadu, zawiera także wypowiedzi jego znajomych i klientów (Pawłowski organizuje wyprawy). Jeśli kochasz góry, bez wątpienia nie pożałujesz czasu spędzonego nad tą lekturą. Jeśli nie bardzo – nie bój się – pokochasz:).

FRAGMENTY KSIĄŻKI

Czytałam gdzieś, że Himalaje pełne są porzuconych śmieci i trupów. Co się robi z takim nieboszczykiem? Nic się nie robi. Przechodzi się dalej. Żadnego hołdu, rzucenia grudką ….śniegu, zamknięcia oczu? Nie zamkniesz mu oczu, bo są zamarznięte. Nieraz od wielu lat. Mallory po 75 – latach, nic się nie zmienił.

Czy sądzisz, że wyprawa powiedzmy 10 najlepszych, obecnych himalaistów Świata mogłaby pobić nowe rekordy?

Były takie wyprawy organizowane przez Anglików z Francuzami. Nie sprawdziły się. Rozbijały je ambicje. Nie dość, że indywidualne – gwiazdorów alpinizmu, to jeszcze narodowościowe typu: nie będę nosił sprzętu Angolowi, nie będę jadł z żabojadem…..

Szerpowie, kucharze, pomocnicy….. jak ich traktujecie? Jest wyższość białego człowieka wobec dzikich, czy też okazja do poznania innej kultury? Miałem kiedyś ciekawą historię w Afganistanie z kandydatem na kucharza . Zachwalał swoje umiejętności, aż w końcu mówi, że pracował już z Polakami i ma nawet pisemne rekomendacje. Wyciąga specjalny zeszycik i z dumą podtyka mi stronę, na której jest napisane dużymi literami: Tego ch…. nożem .

Czyli oni z was żyją, ale nie bardzo was lubią. Jak to górale. Coś im się nie podoba i jesteś na przegranej pozycji. Tutaj również rządzi pieniądz.

RECENZJE :

Niezwykły bohater i bardzo interesująca lektura. Smak gór to książka, którą można czytać na wiele sposobów:

– po pierwsze jest to okazja do bliższego poznania Ryszarda Pawłowskiego, jedynego polskiego wielkiego alpinisty i himalaisty, który jest zarazem utalentowanym organizatorem i przewodnikiem komercyjnych wypraw w góry wysokie, – po drugie jest to okazja do szukania odpowiedzi na pytanie o rolę doświadczania gór i ich smakowania w życiu bohatera książki i jego górskich partnerów – po trzecie Smak gór to oryginalnie pomyślana, dobrze zredagowana i świetnie wydana książka, jedyna i niepowtarzalna, godna właśnie Ryszarda Wielkiego Wysokogórskiego. W bogatym polskim piśmiennictwie inspirowanym górami Smak gór ma swoje jedyne i niepowtarzalne miejsce.

Michał Jagiełło
Dyrektor Biblioteki Narodowej
alpinista, ratownik górski

Bez sentymentów, prosto, ale ze swadą – o górach i o sobie.
Smak gór , wywiad -rzeka z trzykrotnym zdobywcą Mt.Everestu to książka i dla tych , którzy pół życia spędzają za biurkiem, marząc o ekstremalnych doznaniach, i dla tych , którzy są gotowi zza biurka po te doznania ruszyć. W Smaku gór Ci drudzy znajdą odpowiedź, czy warto ruszyć z Ryszardem Pawłowskim.

Iza Szumilewicz
RADIO ZET

Autor porusza ciekawa tematykę, rzadko opisywaną, a dotyczącą pogranicza alpinizmu i wysokogórskiej komercji, relacji przewodnik – klient. Reporterska formuła ujawnia dobrze relatywizm w postrzeganiu gór. Smak gór to również subiektywne spojrzenie Ryszarda Pawłowskiego na góry, etykę, na życie wogóle. Książka niewątpliwie wzbogaca naszą wiedzę o człowieku.

Krzysztof Wielicki
Himalaista, Zdobywca Korony Himalajów

O autorze :

Każdy kto zechce zobaczyć Himalaje, poczuć smak najwspanialszej przygody, przeżyć przygodę życia powinien wybrać się na jedną z wypraw organizowanych przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

pawlowski-lider.jpg Ryszard Pawłowski.

Urodzony w 1950 roku, zodiakalny Rak, ale Tygrys według horoskopu chińskiego, inżynier elektryk, instruktor alpinizmu, przewodnik górski.

Wziął udział w ponad 100 wyprawach w różne góry świata jako uczestnik lub organizator. Zdobył 10 szczytów 8-tysięcznych, min. K2 (8611m) płn. filarem.
Jest jedynym Polakiem, który 3-krotnie stanął na szczycie Mt. Everestu(8848 m n.p.m.). Dokonał wielu wejść trudnymi drogami wspinaczkowymi w różnych rejonach Ziemi.

* Sylwetka himalaisty :

Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

* Poprzednie posty : – Books

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 : over on Broad Peak.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Broad Peak – it’s over.

Broad Peak _ Pawłowski 2009 New

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition led by Ryszard Pawłowski (he has summitted Everest three times 5/13/94, 5/12/95, and 5/18/99.); the team : Agenor Gawrzyał, Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice), Henryk Szczęsny, Piotr Snopczyński, Ryszard Zawada.

pawlowski-lider.jpgRyszard Pawłowski (24 June 1950) Polish alpine and high-altitude climber and photographer. Member of The Explorers Club.

Ryszard Pawlowski in the founder and co-owner of Patagonia Mountain Agency. He has been climbing since 1970 and is an alpinism instructor and guide. He has climbed the mountains of North and South America, the Himalayas, Alps, Caucasus, Pamirs and Tien Shain.

Goal:

Ryszard Pawłowski wants to climb Broad Peak (8047m) by normal (first ascent) route.

Accomplishment time:

12.06.2009 – 01.08.2009

Description of the expedition:

The team wants to climb Broad Peak (8047m) by normal route.

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.

Karakoram wrap-up: over on Broad Peak.

Jul 20, 2009

Broad Peak – it’s over.

Bad weather thwarted all hopes for Broad Peak climbers on summit push last weekend: nobody reached beyond the peak’s foresummit, according to reports. Moreover, summit day ended up tragically as Italian Cristina Castagna fell to her death on the way down.

“It’s been impossible,” Polish team leader Ryszard Pawlowski reported earlier today. “The weather gave us no break – we’re going down to BC today.”

Expedition leader Ryszard Pawlowski writes today on the Patagonia website that forecasts show no chance of a window before the end of  accomplishment time. They organizing porters and  Jul 23, 2009 BC is packed up.

* Source : – http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

** see :  – all my post, select category : – Ryszard Pawłowski

Tragedy on Broad Peak, 2009 climbing season – Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4.

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 : relacje z wyprawy cz.5 – koniec wyprawy.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Jubileuszowa wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 : over on Broad Peak./Version english/

Broad Peak _ Pawłowski 2009 New

Cel:

Celem wyprawy jest wspinaczka na Broad Peak (8047m) – w 25 rocznicę zdobycia tego szczytu przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Termin realizacji :

Wyprawa startuje z kilkudniowym opóźnieniem (miała się rozpocząć 5 czerwca). a  rozpocznie się 12.06.2009 i potrwa do 01.08.2009

Opis wyprawy:

Wejście na szczyt jest przewidziane drogą normalną, drogą pierwszych zdobywców.

Dla Ryszarda Pawłowskiego będzie to swoisty jubileusz ponieważ 25 lat wcześniej zdobył Broad Peak i był to wtedy jego pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik.

Dla Piotra Snopczyńskiego to już kolejny ośmiotysięcznik do zdobycia.

Natomiast pozostali uczestnicy wyprawy będą zdobywać Broad Peak jak swój pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik, choć należy podkreślić, że wszyscy oni mają już doświadczenie z wielu wypraw  na inne szczyty organizowanych właśnie przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Uczestnicy :

pawlowski-male.jpgRyszard Pawłowski – Lider
urodzony w 1950 roku, zodiakalny Rak, ale Tygrys według horoskopu chińskiego, inżynier elektryk, instruktor alpinizmu, przewodnik górski.

Wziął udział w ponad 200 wyprawach w różne góry świata jako uczestnik lub organizator. Zdobył dziesięć szczytów ośmiotysięcznych, m.in. K2 (8611 m n.p.m.) płn. filarem. Jest jedynym Polakiem, który trzykrotnie stanął na szczycie Mt. Everestu (8848 m n.p.m.) 5/13/94, 5/12/95, 5/18/99.

Sylwetka himalaisty :

Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Zespół : Agenor Gawrzyał, Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice), Henryk Szczęsny, Piotr Snopczyński, Ryszard Zawada.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy.

Decyzja o zakończeniu wyprawy.

Niestety nie udało się, fatalne warunki pogodowe, ciągłe opady śniegu nie pozwoliły wyprawie na osiągnięcie szczytu. W miniony weekend wiele zespołów podejmowało ataki na szczyt, nikomu sie to nie udało, a co gorsze w czasie jednego z ataków zaginęła Włoszka Cristina Castagna.

Członkowie wyprawy nie mają już więcej czasu na oczekiwanie na poprawę pogody i na kolejna próbę zdobycia szczytu. Została podjęta decyzja o zakończeniu wyprawy, a poniżej ostatnie relacje :

20.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Niestety nie udało się … i to by było na tyle. Pogoda nie dała nam żadnych szans zawróciliśmy spod przełęczy. Dzisiaj chcemy zejść do bazy, a 23-go karawana powrotna. Pozdrawiamy

19.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Witam. Na razie nie jest dobrze. Wczoraj podczas próby zginęła Włoszka Kristina, zobacz :

Tragedy on Broad Peak, 2009 climbing season – Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4.

My jutro mamy ostatnią próbę i musimy kończyć wyprawę. Dotychczas nie ma żadnych wejść!!

15.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Wszyscy są jeszcze w bazie bo znowu padalo, ale już widać poprawę – może coś z tego będzie. 17-go chcemy wyjść i to będzie ostatnia próba 😦

13.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Znowu wszyscy wrócilismy do bazy bo spadlo duzo sniegu i mocno wialo, a u góry byl tylko nasz zespól. Za dwa dni znowu chcemy spróbowac. 🙂

Organizator wyprawy :

Źródło : – http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

* zobacz też :

– posty o wyprawach Ryszarda Pawłowskiego, kliknij – Ryszard Pawłowski.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009. /Version english and polish/

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.1.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.2.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.3.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.4.

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.4.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Jubileuszowa wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Broad Peak _ Pawłowski 2009 New

Cel:

Celem wyprawy jest wspinaczka na Broad Peak (8047m) – w 25 rocznicę zdobycia tego szczytu przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Termin realizacji :

Wyprawa startuje z kilkudniowym opóźnieniem (miała się rozpocząć 5 czerwca). a  rozpocznie się 12.06.2009 i potrwa do 01.08.2009

Opis wyprawy:

Wejście na szczyt jest przewidziane drogą normalną, drogą pierwszych zdobywców.

Dla Ryszarda Pawłowskiego będzie to swoisty jubileusz ponieważ 25 lat wcześniej zdobył Broad Peak i był to wtedy jego pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik.

Dla Piotra Snopczyńskiego to już kolejny ośmiotysięcznik do zdobycia.

Natomiast pozostali uczestnicy wyprawy będą zdobywać Broad Peak jak swój pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik, choć należy podkreślić, że wszyscy oni mają już doświadczenie z wielu wypraw  na inne szczyty organizowanych właśnie przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Uczestnicy :

pawlowski-male.jpgRyszard Pawłowski – Lider
urodzony w 1950 roku, zodiakalny Rak, ale Tygrys według horoskopu chińskiego, inżynier elektryk, instruktor alpinizmu, przewodnik górski.

Wziął udział w ponad 200 wyprawach w różne góry świata jako uczestnik lub organizator. Zdobył dziesięć szczytów ośmiotysięcznych, m.in. K2 (8611 m n.p.m.) płn. filarem. Jest jedynym Polakiem, który trzykrotnie stanął na szczycie Mt. Everestu (8848 m n.p.m.) 5/13/94, 5/12/95, 5/18/99.

Sylwetka himalaisty :

Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Zespół : Agenor Gawrzyał, Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice), Henryk Szczęsny, Piotr Snopczyński, Ryszard Zawada.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy.

10.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Znowu wróciliśmy do bazy bo w nocy wiało i padał śnieg. Czekamy na nową szansę. Pozdrawiamy.

09.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Doszli do nas Heniu i Piotr. Tak, że naszą 4-ką jesteśmy w 3-ce na 7200m. Jeszcze do szczytu nie idziemy bo dużo śniegu, a inni nam nie pomagają.

07.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Jesteśmy w 2-ce z Jędrkiem, a Piotr z Heniem w 1-ce. Jutro chcemy wyjść do 3-ki. Pogoda na razie dobra. Pozdrawiamy.

02.07.2009 – relacja : R. Pawłowskiego

Na razie czekamy na warunki w ścianie i wypoczywamy:)

Organizator wyprawy :

Źródło : – http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

* zobacz też :

– posty o wyprawach Ryszarda Pawłowskiego, kliknij Ryszard Pawłowski.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009. /Version english and polish/

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.1.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.2.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.3.

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga