Nepal Expedition – International Pumori Expedition Spring 2010.

Mount Pumori Ascend – More information.

The Mount Pumori Base camp can be reached from Kathmandu – Lukla flight; and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche – Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.

Pumori Route Map

Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.

Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it’s vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; and who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori.

You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori .

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb.
South – West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997.

Itinerary:

13 April 2010 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
14 April 2010 Day 02: Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition
15 April 2010 Day 03: Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism
16 April 2010 Day 04: Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge
17 April 2010 Day 05: Phakding to Namche lodge
18 April 2010 Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization lodge
19 April 2010 Day 07: Namche – Thyanboche lodge
20 April 2010 Day 08: Thyangboche – Pheriche lodge
21 April 2010 Day 09: Pheriche – Lobuche lodge
22 April 2010 Day 10: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp – Camping

23 April -11 May 2010 11-29 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. [ Route Map ]

12 May 2010 Day 30: Pumori BC – Pangboche -Lodge
13 May 2010 Day 31: Pangboche – Namche -Lodge
14 May 2010 Day 32: Namche – Lukla – Lodge
15 May 2010 Day 33: Fly Lukla – Kathmandu & transfer hotel
16 May 2010 Day 34: Kathmandu
17 May 2010 Day 35: final departures

Climbing Equipment List

Cost:

01 Person USD 11000.00
02 Persons, Per Person USD 6000.00
03-04 Persons, Per Person USD 4200.00
05-07 Persons, Per Person USD 3500.00
08-12 Persons, Per Person USD 3000.00
13-15 Persons, Per Person USD 2500.00

Climbing Sherpa guide, Per Sherpa guide USD 2000.00

Cost includes:

1. 5 Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast at 3 Star Hotel.
2. Permit fee of Pumori 7145m.Expedition
3. Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Lhotse
4. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
5. Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
6. Kathmandu -Lukla – Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
8. Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
9. 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
10. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
11. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
12. Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
13. Satellite phone (Pay calls)
14. Fare Well dinner

Cost does not include:

1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
2. Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
3. Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
5. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
6. Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
7. Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
8. Personal expenses.
9. Bar Bills & beverage.
10. Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.

*Source : – http://www.monterosa-nepal.com/expedition/mt-pumori.htm

** Previous story :

– Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Mera Peak OCTOBER 2009.

– Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Baruntse Expeditions.

– Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Ama Dablam Expedition.

– Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Island Peak Climbing.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Tragedy on Nanga Parbat update: survivors in BC, summits and accidents’ details.

Jul 13, 2009
(K2Climb.net) Lt Col(R) Ilyas Ahmad Mirza of Askari Aviation (“The Fearless Five”) in Pakistan told ExWeb in an email this morning that two helicopters were sent yesterday to retrieve Miss Go’s remains on Nanga Parbat but her body, earlier spotted on a steep slope, was missing from the location today. The helis are likely to return tomorrow to resume the search.

As climbers return to BC, more details are emerging about the weekend’s summit push and difficult descent on Nanga Parbat:

Wolfgang Köblinger lost balance in high winds and fell to his death shortly after reaching the summit. Another fall, on an unroped section between C3 and C2 took Miss Go’s life on Saturday.

No hopes for Köblinger

Gerfried’s Göschl’s home team stated all hope is out to find Wolfgang Köblinger alive. The team leader explained over sat phone the circumstances during which Köblinger disappeared. “Wolfgang was part of the group who attempted the summit from the Kinshoffer route,” Gerfried’s home team wrote.

“Hans Wenzl topped-out at about 2.30pm; Michaela Landl and Herbert Schütter turned around due to the late hour – but Wolfgang continued. He reached the summit together with a Korean expedition at 6:10pm. On descent, Wolfgang was behind the Koreans. Following a very strong gust of wind the Koreans glanced back with Wolfgang nowhere to be seen. His footprints ended at a steep slope at approx. 8060m. Louis Rousseau took pictures of the track and found some of Wolfgang’s belongings (backpack, a globe, a cap) and took them down to BC.”

“Meanwhile climbers in BC have helped some exhausted members of the summit group on their way down. Today (yesterday) at six, all our team members are safely back in BC.”

Details on Miss Oh and Miss Go

Giuseppe Pompili confirmed the late Korean Go Mi-Sun’s summit time, provided some details on her accident, and added a correction – stating Miss Oh Eun-Sun was first to summit that day, climbing on O2.

“I had mistaken the two Koreans,” Giuseppe Pompili noted. “Miss Oh was the one climbing on Oxygen – Miss Go was slowly ascending behind.”

“Miss Go topped-out at around 6.00 pm,” Pompili confirmed. “Shortly after she was forced to take shelter behind a rock for two hours due to the strong wind. She spent the night in C4. On the following morning (Saturday), while climbing down between C3 and C2 on a section without fixed ropes, she fell.”

“There are about 20 sections of double ropes along the three first camps, but also some unroped sections which are dangerous. Adriano and I were extremely careful when we had to climb down these passages – and definitely less tired than Miss Go.”

Sadness in BC

“Sadness – That’s the word to describe the feelings here in BC,” Pompili wrote. “Miss Go’s body was sighted down the Messner Couloir. Some people argue the rope in the section where she fell had been removed – others discuss the late departure hour from C4 (apparently about 3:00 am)…”

“One of Miss Go’s Sherpas has sustained severe frostbites in his hands,” Giuseppe added. “Today (yesterday) a chopper is scheduled to take Miss Oh to GI – I am not sure whether she’s finally taking it though.”

“Herbert (Schütter) is helped down by Gerfried and three others (Ed note: at the time of the report). He turned back without reaching the summit on Friday, but topped-out in a second attempt on Saturday,” the Italian climber stated.

Joao’s summit pics

One of the first to summit and also among the first climbers back in BC; Portuguese Joao García has sent a summit pic and a video report is expected soon.

Here is a preliminary summit list:

Friday, July 10th – Kinshoffer route summits:

Approx. 12:00pm: Miss Oh (probably on O2 – in her 12th 8000er) and at least one of her Sherpas.

Approx. 12:00pm: Joao (in his 13th 8000er), Ali and Amin.

2:30pm: Hans Wenzl.

6.00 pm: Miss Go (in her 11th 8000er, lost on descent), Kim Jae-Soo (his 11th 8000er), possibly other members in her team, and Wolfgang Köblinger (lost on descent).

Saturday, July 11th – New Route summits:

Gerfried Göschl, Louis Rousseau, Sepp Bachmair and Hans Goger.

Herbert Schütter joined the New Route group from C4 to the summit – he had previously climbed up the Kinshoffer route.

Others:

British Richard (Rick) Allen and Alexander (Sandy) Allan were quoted as summiteers – dates and route are still to be confirmed.

* Previous story  : – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/karakoram/

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Tragedy on Nanga Parba, 2009 climbing season : Korean star climber Miss Go lost on Nanga Parbat normal route.

(K2Climb.net) Go Mi-Sun has been confirmed dead after she went missing on Nanga Parbat Saturday.

Details are not yet clear on what exactly caused the accident. Fellow mountaineers on the peak such as Italian Giuseppe Pompili were impressed by the lady climber, reporting she climbed strongly and summited on supplementary O2.

Go reportedly fell on descent at around 6200 meters and went missing close to camp 2. Korean media reports state that her remains have since been recovered.

Record climber

Go Mi-Sun, 41, (also spelled ‘Ko Mi-young’ by some of the local media) became known as a “dark horse” in the quest for the first female to summit all 14, 8000ers. With 11, 8000ers summited in a very short time, after Nanga Parbat she would only have the “easy” Gasherbrums 1 and 2 plus Annapurna on the list.

Beside the “female” aspect however; Miss Go had a number of overall world records in Himalayan mountaineering.

ExWeb’s Himalaya statistician Rodrigo Granzotto Peron (Brazil) said in an email today that Miss Go was
– the first person to summit 3x8000ers in 3 consecutive years (2007, 2008 and 2009);
– had the fastest (72 days) ascent of 4 different main 8000ers (2009);
– and made the first ever triple-header in Himalaya (2009).

The climber further summited an astonishing seven 8000ers in 2008/2009: Lhotse, K2, Manaslu, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri and Nanga Parbat.

Kim loses his mate

The fatal accident is a big blow to Go’s regular climbing mate Kim Jae-Soo. Except for her first 8000er (Cho Oyu), Go Mi Sun had always climbed with Kim.

The two survived K2 together last year, but the tragedies on the mountain affected Go. Afterwards she told ExWeb’s Karrar Haidri in Islamabad that her team Sherpa Jumik Bhote had called home to his pregnant wife over a satellite phone from the summit. After he died, the wife gave birth to a baby girl. “This was very upsetting to me,” Go told Karrar.

At the time, Go told Karrar that she hoped to climb all 14, 8000ers by 2011, but shortly after sped up her ambition.

Following her Makalu-Kangchenjunga-Dhaulagiri triple this spring, she was headed for both Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat this summer, hoping to crown her list with Annapurna in fall.

A climbing champion

Miss Go’s success in Himalaya was neither luck nor an easy challenge. Yet as is the case with most Korean climbers, in spite of her stellar achievements Go made waves outside the established (western) climbing community.

”Dhaulagiri was Go’s 10th 8000er and Kim’s 11th”, Windhorse trekking’s Ang Karma Sherpa told ExWeb from Nepal by the end of this spring season. It was also the Korean lady’s toughest climb until then, she told Ang Karma in an SMS. “We climbed for 25 hours non stop from camp III to summit and back due to the bad weather and ice showers constantly hitting our faces,” Mi-Sun reported back then.

The former Asian Women Sports Climbing, Asian Women Ice Climbing and Korean Women Mountaineering Ski champion had only doggedly entered the world top-league of Himalaya climbers, Ang Karma said.

It was a life-consuming quest. The youngest of 7 siblings, after completing elementary school and middle school at her hometown, Go moved to In-Cheon (enrolling in In-Sung Girls High School) which offered better opportunity to practice mountaineering, reported ExplorersWeb’s correspondent in Korea, Kyu Dam Lee, in an email today.

No easy life

Korean climbers live under very different conditions than western mountaineers. South Korea faces constant threat from communist North Korea and most elders have fresh memories from the Korean War (1950-53) that killed 2.5 million people. It has provided Korea with mountaineers known for taking bigger risks but also achieving spectacular climbs such as Mr Park’s recent new route on Mount Everest.

Miss Go was in it less for the race, but more as a means to become something bigger than her destiny. Her records set a number of milestones for the world mountaineering community, in the end underlining the seriousness of Himalayan 8000+ meter exposure.

Miss Go’s life was a source of great pride and joy to her family. While her memory is bound to inspire in the future, at this time their loss is huge.

“Her father, 84, (currently staying with Miss Go’s elder sister’s house in Song-Pa, Seoul) only cries in silence, her mother is 71 years old,” Kyu told ExplorersWeb.

The Korean embassy in Pakistan confirmed Go Mi-Sun’s death today. Her body will be airlifted by helicopter tomorrow, and transported to Korea soon after her family has arrived in Islamabad. Go’s aunt, sister in law’ and sister Mi-Ran (48) are scheduled for Islamabad on Thursday together with members from supporting Kolon Sports.

Her uncle recalled Go’s last words upon departing on the summit push as, “please pray for my successful summit of Nanga Parbat.”

“Her father loved her so much,” the uncle added, “and always followed her.”

“All the members of her family are in deep sadness,” Kyu told ExplorersWeb.

Go Mi-Sun “Miss Go” (of Cheong-Ho Village, Ha-Seo city, Bu-An county in Jeon-La-Buk-Do/North Jeon-La Province) in Korea summited CH in 2006; EV, BP and SH in 2007; LH, K2 and MN in 2008 ; and MK, KG, DH and NP in 2009.

* see : – Tragedy on Nanga Parbat update: survivors in BC, summits and accidents’ details.

– Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

* Previous story  : – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/karakoram/

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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